bassboost

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so I've been reading and searching for probably the past 4 nights trying to come to a conclusion about an issue my car just decided to come down with.

First, its a 1988 T2 has upgraded injectors,pump,Rtek 1.7, as well as other bolt ons. I run premix in the car. When I first purchased the car back in December I was made aware that the engine had 110psi on a 20k motor from Banzai Racing. Which all sounded fine to me. So, I've had it out for about a month now, fresh oil change, 93octane fuel, always warmed up before going over 3k rpm. Basically "babying" the car, with an occasional redline 1-4 times a week.

The issue I've just ran into is, lately it's being very difficult to start. Usually first crank for about 10seconds then stopping. Then cranking again, and it fires up within about 3seconds. It feels just as strong as it did when I first brought it out for spring, no stumbling, no overheating(180degrees) almost all the time,full power throughout rpm,no random shutoffs while attempting to start or while driving, or odd engine noises, as well as smoke(except for the little smoke produced from premix).

I've managed to notice a smell of fuel, as well as looking head on at the intake, the first injector being wet on top and on the bottom, and the line right on the end. Leaking injectors causing it to flood?

So I decided to investigate possible compression issues. All tests were done immediately after warming up to 180degrees, with top 2 plugs out, efi fuse out, and WOT. Now I'm not sure if it's just my tester ($10 deal from harbor freight, with messed up o-rings w/ about a foot of hose) or if it's dead.

I've read many different testings and outcomes, I figured I'd get opinions from what I'm dealing with.


Video shows vehicle running, immediate hot restart, bump tests, and compression in order, each section is about 35-55sec long.
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bejBs5-dcc4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

korndog517

iTrader: (1)

well if you are seeing the rails leaking out that could cause hard starting since when you shut off the car the fuel pump has a check ball in it to hold pressure in the lines to help with quick starting. If your leaking that pressure is going away and the pump has to start from scratch and build up all the pressure again.

if you can hook up an inline fuel pressure gauge and see if the fuel pressure drops really fast over time

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Does the BAC valve work?

bassboost

iTrader: (2)

Ill see if I can pick up a gauge, ill try and hook that up and see, but like I said it is clearly leaking fuel. No excessive leak, but its wet for sure and has an odor of fuel. And ill research into the BAC, since I'm not completely sure as to what that is/does. Sorry for being a novice to this haha!

Vdub2002

dont pump fuel injected engines!

and yea, fuel pressure could be an issue, also just for SAG's when you go to shut it off rev it up and turn off the engine, this should push out any fuel incase they are leaking into the engine removing the oil lining that seals the apex seals aiding in compression.

Vdub2002

BACV is basically an idle air control valve in piston engines, it controls the vacuum increasing idle to account for loads on the engine, IE electrical feed back on the alternator, power steering, A/C compressor.

bassboost

iTrader: (2)

Okay, after reading about the BAC. I do not have any type of rough idling issues or anything of that sort. It has a steady idle of around 1000-1200rpm. I've read its supposed be around 750ish?

Then, as far as the holding the throttle right before shut down. Will that aid in gaining a more accurate compression reading, or reduce the number I'm receiving now?

Vdub2002

holding the throttle down then cutting ignition will shut down the fuel pump, but the engine spinning with no fuel pressure/ignition will just push out the fuel thats injected.

you are doing this to ensure the hard start isnt due to the fuel removing the layer of oil that is required for compression... do this let it set for a lil while and try starting it.

another option is a fuel cut out switch.... but basically your checking for leaking injectors...

Vdub2002

1500 rpms is the warm up stage IIRC

bassboost

iTrader: (2)

Okay, as soon as this rain decides to clear out I'll give that a shot. And basically it idles around 1000-1100 almost all the time.

Any ideas as to what might be going on with that compression reading? Or should I be assuming that its due to the shoddy gauge? Haha!

Jdrift

That compression reading with that gauge isnt going to be accurate enough to condem anything. There is a special type of tester that is rather expensive. But fix what you can see wrong first. Check your thermowax and fast idle cam on the back of the throttle body and make sure those are sticking. Fix you fuel leak for Gods' sake. lol.

bassboost

iTrader: (2)

I planned on fixing that fuel leak haha! As soon as the constant rain stops around here, I'll start tinkering with it and see what I find exactly leaking. And try to get my hands on a more quality tester as well.

korndog517

iTrader: (1)

if the injector itsself is wet ill put money on the upper O-ring is cracked, check that