hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I know this is all for stock stuff so I have no worries, I know I'm going to have to put it on a dyno and tune it. What my main question is, is what is the a/f #'s with the rtek 1.7 chip because that will tell me if I have headroom with my slightly larger turbo to at least get it to the dyno withought blowing up my engine If the 1.7 is tuned with the stock turbo at some liberal a/f #'s then I won't have to worry but if it is tuned just perfect for the stock then I don't want to take the risk of driving it to a dyno and blowing the engine on the way (25mile drive). I guess I wasn't asking the question right.

OverDriven

You know what would rock? If the creator of this chip came up with a program that lets him enter the turbo, injectors, ect being used and it burns a chip that will control the car for those mods. Custom made ECU's basically. Then we would send in our mods, and he would type them into his program and the thing would burn a chip that would work perfectly with that setup...now that would rock.

-Joe

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

These cars are not speed density. Making small changes to the VE of a motor will be compensated for. Do I suggest you go beating on your car on the way to the dyno? No. But you knew that. Just don't do anything crazy, keep your foot off the floorboard and watch that boost and you will be fine to get to the dyno.

Yes, yes it would. But there is a reason not even the big chip makers do this. While it sounds good in theory, it would be nearly impossible to do. Every car is different. The same mods on two different cars could need different fuel and timing requirements to run safely. The margin of saftey decreases as the HP goes up. While saying "X will work with Y mods" down near the stock level isn't too hard to get running safely, when you start getting into heavy mods, that saftey buffer narrows and requires more precise tuning customized to the particular engine you are working with to run safely. I would not want the liablitily of saying "this chip will work with Y mods" without ever seeing the car it's going in.

Though Version 2 will somewhat bridge this gap as it will give you the power to make a "custom ecu chip" yourself.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the reply. When I get my turbo in I will go ahead and drive it there before doing any crazy driving. Thanks again.

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Heres another taste of version 2.0

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ewwwwwwwwwwwww cool, can't wait till it comes out!

jon88se

I know a few people that liek to run a grade LOWER in fuel for dyno tuning and start off low with boost and timing advance. They tune for say 89 octane and get the car running nicely (not too aggressive). Then run their normal pump gas (say 93 octane) all for an added margin of error. I've gotten a couple bad tanks of gas iin my GVR4 and my logger reads a bit of knock. I actually know what gas stations to stay away from that way hehe

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

IMO, thats nuts. While I understand their thinking (I guess tuning using knock instead of A/F?), running on the dyno is a lot harder on a motor than running on the street. I'd want to tune for proper A/F while using race gas so if I go too lean, there is a buffer. I'm not saying tune *for using* race gas, but tune *with* race gas. It doesn't take much knock to destroy a motor. These cars have crap knock sensors anyway. You might be able to tune leaner with race gas, but the point is to tune the A/F for numbers that are pump gas friendly, while running race gas for protection while on the dyno..

But whatever works for people.

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

sign me up!
-John

jon88se

I agree - definitely not the way to go, I just know people who tune that way. I run my regular pump gas...nothing more, nothing less. I've always started with low boost and worked my way up when tuning. I don't like threshold tuning either...i don't want any knock sensor activity on my GVR4. For me these days, it's all about knock and timing...I want good timing and NO knock. With the logger, I don't even need a dyno hehe

TO4Z

I was wondering what if a 20 g would be too big as well, but so I don't ask his question ever again; what housing and wheel sizes would be too big?

thanks

gsracer

I'm not sure what you aren't understanding. The size of the turbo doesn't matter, it's the airflow that does. You could run a 60-1 turbo on a stock ecu/fuel system if you keep the boost at rediculously low numbers.

There are a few FC's that run the 20G, I think greddy used that mitsu turbo in one of the older greddy turbo kits many years ago. The 20g has the potential to put down some big power. (350rwhp plus)

To fully utilize the 20g, or a variety of aftermarket turbo's you will need much more fuel than the stock fuel system offers. You might be able to get by with 4 720cc injectors, but it's more likely that you might need a combo that offers even more fuel.

The rtek ecu isn't a magic chip, this has already been stated. The v1.7 has the ability to run 720cc secondaries like stock. It has lowered the secondary activation point, and retards timing past fuel cut. Stock primary injectors and 720cc secondary injectors is not enough fuel to support nearly all large aftermarket turbo's at anything other than very minimal boost.


Matt

88t2romad

will this make my 88t2 go.....brap....brap....brap....brap.....like a bridge port?







Im kidding!!..........geeze some poeple on this forum.......!!!!!!!???!?!?!?

full-cruise

iTrader: (5)

lmao over here::: but i here you on that.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Stock primary injectors and 720cc secondary injectors is not enough fuel to support nearly all large aftermarket turbo's at anything other than very minimal boost

are you saying this with the stock fuel map of the rtek or are you saying this period??? 720's are large enough to run a bnr stage 2 and almost the stage 3.

gsracer

A 550cc/720cc combo might support up to 265ish rwhp on stock fuel pressure while running what I would consider to be be safe/conservative air fuel ratios. The BNR stage II and above have the potential to make more power than this. You can't unleash this power unless you have the fuel to support it.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

how do you get that??? the stock injectors are good for about 250hp so the 720cc secondaries should get you to at least 300rwhp. Remember you have to change your fuel pump way before you change your injectors. You can run the stock turbo boosted to as high as 10 to 14psi with stock injectors just fine.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ Hahaha, sure you can! All the way to the end of the block .

Bwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaennnnhhhhhh POP!!! gurgle gurgle sputter cough hisss.........

--Fritz

TO4Z

I know it wasn't a "magic chip" I just was wondering what turbo would be creating too much air flow for it that's all, but thanks for your reply none the less.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok whats so funny??? The part that you can boost that high with stock injectors??? You can! Just get a new fuel pump and rewire it. Or are you laughing because I said you can get 300rwhp out of 720cc secondaries???

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...48#post3694848

here you go.

SideWindeRx7

I just quickly want to chime in here... and say, fritz ... once you go ahead and upgrade to a turbocharged model. And actually modify it... shut the **** up.

The 550cc injectors will product 300rwhp with some type of controller.

with 720 secondaries you will have no problems making over 300whp.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hum thats strange, if you do the fuel calculator on the rx7.com website it shows the 550/720 combo only doing 290 to about maybe 300.

capn

what cycle did you set it at though?



PS

if i bought and rtek 1.5 this would eliminate my need for an FCD and AFC?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well yes and no. you can get rid of the fcd and the afc but some people use the afc to fine tune the car but yeah you really don't need it unless your are going to be tuning it even more.