WTF now no power below 4000
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WTF now no power below 4000
OK so last week i had a problem where i had no power above 4000 rpm, so in checking the injectors i went and made sure nothing was wrong with the resistor pack for the injectors. In doing that i managed to **** up the mass air flow sensor, and broke a few solders. I went in there and fixed everything or at least i thought i did. this morning i go to start my car and it just starts blowing out a shitload of smaoke and is running like ***, won't hold an idle and strggles till about 4k, then once it hits that it runs perfect. WTF could be wrong, i tried checking for a vaccume leak but can't find any. Anyone else have any clues? thanks
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Ok so i've been searching for the past hour trying to look for something and i can't find anyone that had the same problem. Part of me thinks I just really messed up the AFM and need a new one, but would this cause me to run really really shitty below 4k and good above 4k?
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I'm having a similar problem with my car. I'm not sure if it still does, cause I only did it once thinking if I do it again I might hurt something. Anyway, In 3rd gear I reach about 4,000 to 4,500 and my car started to stutter, almost as if it was trying to start moving in 2nd gear or something.
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i have my 5th and 6th ports wired open but they've been like that for a while now so i don't think that's it. The car doesn't actually idle on it's own at all. I have to have my foot on the gas all the time to keep it going. Exactly how do i reset the fuel air setting? I also have a safc hooked up if that makes any difference. It runs really rough even when not in gear with me foot on the gas. It backfires alot not, i didn't even think i did anything major to the car and now it's all messed up.
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#8
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very intrested in how to reset air flow settings could you please post thanks and as far as the bad idle maybe you might want to try grounding your exaust it pretty simple just run a ground close to the o2 sen try that first as you said it always idled bad my car had the same problem quick fix
#9
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ok well its on the passenger side near the radiator.it looks like a connector that should be connected to something its probably green. its near your coil pack. you might want to disconnect the safc for this. jumper these 2 wires. you have 2 settings for idle. one is on the left side near the stock intercooler. its round. there is a screw in there. that is your course adjustment. the other is on the left fenderwell all it has is a vaccume hose going to it. that is your fine adjustment. set your idle with that jumpered. then turn off the car. start it again. do this with the engine warm. shut it off and disconnect it. start it again. should be ok. that sets the air fuel ratio. then reconnect the safc. see how that runs. you also might have toasted the afm if so re check your fix. maybe something has gone bad. do you still have your catalytic converter? the afm usually goes for about 600-900 dollars. dont get the one from a parts store. it is the wrong one. i promise i tried. i got mine on ebay for 60 dollars. is your car an automatic?
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i haven't always had a problem, my idle has been good up until now so i don't think adding anymore grounds will really change that. My car is an n/a so how much does that change resetting the air flow? i know the green connector you're tlaking about and the one the vaccum line leads to. and i'm guessing the idle adjustment scren is just the one on top of the TB. exactly how do you "jumper wires". Just connect them with another wire?
#11
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Swap in a known good AFM. Verify the settings on the S-AFC are not set to a hot wire type AFM. Check your wiring around your primary injectors (you will need to remove the upper intake to do this).
Don't waste your time.
have you jumpered the sirvice port wire and reset the fuel air setting? its pretty easy only takes about 2 minutes. is the idle really rough, or does it surge?
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id say the new afm is a good bet and since you have an n/a car they are very plentiful. your set screw is on the top of your tb. other than that the procedure is the same. before you had the safc did it run better or worse? check every bit of wiring you can. snap-on makes a really cool tool for this but its about 200 dollars
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The car ran the same before and after i had the safc, i just noticed a little more hp and better mpg. How bad is it to drive my car like this for a few days until i get a new AFM in? i know it's not good, but i don't want my engine to blow either.
#15
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well its not really bad but still not great. you will probably foul your plugs. so you can either clean them or buy new ones. good to hear you got more power. it wont blow your engine. also check little stuff like check the coils again and check your wires. check plugs. by the way ive got an extra upper intake for your car. if you want it all you have to pay for is shipping. good luck to you. if i find anything else out ill post.
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