turbo-111

can someone do me a huge favor and go out to their car take a picture of their starter wired up so i can see how far the frig off i am on wiring this bad boy. also i have taken all the bolt out of the drive shaft and it will not come loose. we've been hitting it with rubber malets, chisels pry-bars, everything and it will not come loose. is there something i am missing ? the Haynes manual says it should just drop off, no such luck no matter what i do it does not come loose. any ideas for both of these situations ?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Its not hard, the ground wire goes on the upper left bolt that runs through the trans and engine. The power is bolted onto the starter itself, the left prong. The starter wire connects on top, the only spot it can go.

The drive shaft sort of sits on a ridge, so you will need to push a bit towards the engine. Hopefully that helps. In a bad case your U-joints may be toast and not moving at all causing a bind.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

c connects to c

a connects to a

B on the harness bolts to the starter body, one of two bolts you use to bolt it to the transmission. on the starter, just throw a nut on there and your done.

B wire DOES NOT connect to B on the starter.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

For your driveshaft,make sure you Mark it so it goes back on the same way you took it off..and Take a chisel and put it between the Driveshaft flange and the Differential flange.That will Knock it free from the cup that the Guy above is talking about.Once that is done,you can take a Long screwdriver or Pry bar and create more room to actually get the shaft Free and clear of the Differential flange..Then just Pull it Out from the tail stock of the transmission..NOTE:when you remove the Driveshaft From the Trans,You will have Fluid Leak from the Tail stock,so Be Prepared.Get a Plastic bag and put it on the Tail stock with a Rubber band or something..it will make work alot Easier and Cleaner.Cheers man..STYX!~

turbo-111

FRIGGIN AWESOME GUYS
thanks so much for the pic and the driveshaft advice you guys rule !!!!
__________________

turbo-111

=)

turbo-111

thanks so much guys the starter is in and the drive shaft is in, i just have one other issue i cant get the trans to take the fluid. its like taken maybe 1/8 of fluid and wont take anymore... ever had that problem ?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

are you sure you drained it all the way? usually it takes like... 2.5 quarts i think? or is it 2.7?? i dont know. but what you do is you look at the bolts on the side. they should be square looking. pop off the top most one. fill it up ( use a long as hose and rout it to the engine bay so that you dont have to be under there to fill it up.

then, fill up the shifter hole or shifter box with fluid if the tranny was taken fully out. or not depending on if its got some in there. dont put too much in there, but i dont know. just a lil bit.

turbo-111

yeah im pretty sure it was all drained out, lol drain all over the floor when the drive shaft came out when we pulled the engine and tranny. i was just going by what good old Haynes was saying in the manual trans section. ive seen the big square bolt several times and was like wtf is that 4 since you fill from the shifter i guess i'll just cut up a garden hose and use that to fill it.
thanks once again guys

farberio

iTrader: (7)

It seems you can never get all of it out that way, do a real drain by the big plug at the bottom of the trans.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

bingo. also, the shifter assembly is blocked off ( from my experience ) and you cannot fill from the shifter hole.

garden hose is too big. something way smaller. half that size.

turbo-111

ok oil is in the trannyi t was all drained out like i said i was just going of haynes who most often than not isint that helpful i think. but i just stopped by the parts store and picked up sum hose shuved into the trans and let it go. only other problem i have now is starting my rebuild. im a little afraid we tryed building oil pressure 2day and i had a leak i never plugd the lil nipple off the oil inlet tube. after that... still no pressure. i then thought the stock sender unite was bad till we hard wired it to the after market gauge it said that the car had 20psi after three cranks 10 secs long but when we removed the oil filter i didn't see any, however i did get the shhhhsh sound like opening a bottle. i checked the filter because i was going off of rotary resurrections start up write up. some friends of mine looked up why it wouldn't be build oil pressure but they all said because of bad sender units and i need a mechanical sender, to bad the new unite isint long enough it keeps hitting the block. im really afraid that he housings might get cut and the whole ordeal would have been for nothing, so what should i do now ?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

is it a fresh rebuild? keep cranking it. don't rely on teh stock sender or gauge.

turbo-111

yes fresh rebuild i just dont want to try start and no oil then i have big problem

turbo-111

2)

Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once every 10 seconds, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking. DO NOT START the engine before verifying oil pressure/flow exists. IF your stock gauge is questionable, use a mechanical gauge to verify, or loosen your oil filter and check for oil there.


this is what im trying to follow

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Just A Second.Where were you trying to drain the fluid on the Trans?..the lower Plug on the Side?.Wrong!..it is on the bottom of the transmission itself.and the TOP plug on the driver's side of the Trans is used of course to Fill the trans with Fluid.Filling it is a cumbersome job,but it can be done in many ways.I get a 4 litre and a 1 litre bottle.I use the 1 litre bottle With a Clear hose attached to it...You can also GO through the Hole in the floor(shifter) IF,and only IF you are careful.Run a hose down to the fill plug location and lett'er Rip!..and the Most Drastic way is to make a Hole on the floor to Access the Plug(NOT recommended but IT has been done!!)..anyways I wish you luck.,.and the engine Will smoke like a Banshee on Crack when started,so start it in a Well Ventilated "Neighbour Free" Area!

turbo-111

yeah i ended up just getting like a 3ft hose form auto zone and snaking it down thro the engine bay to the side of the trans and poored it int that way

turbo-111

so what do i need to do to measure my oil pressure ?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

take the oil filter off and crank it.. you should see gallons of oil shoot out in like... 2 secconds, that means you have oil pressure.

and a big mess.

is there oil in the filter?

usually my gauge doesnt read oil pressure ( bonzai oil pedistal mod with electric gauge ) doesnt read anything untill like a couple secconds after the car is running. like 1 or 2 at the most.

turbo-111

ok now im a lil worried we tryed that and nothing happened....

turbo-111

heres somthing eles im no oil comming out of the oil cooler line to the rear of the engine, now i havent tested if its even going in but i found this post last night.



Okay im having this weird fu%&*&$^&**( problem with this car and i need help before i kill myself,got a fresh rebuild motor on a T2 and it does not have any oil pressure,when you crank the motor you get no reading on the guage(it does not move at all and the sending is good)I did disconected the front upper oil cooler hose from the front cover and oil shoots out,i did take the front cover of and turn the motor by hand and oil comes out the main oil crossover point( oil comes out like crazy)then i disconected the rear oil cooler line and oil does not come out(the one that goes on the rear iron)i did check the oil filter and is dry and the turbo is not getting oil neither so what the fu^* is going on here,if oil is coming out of the front cover line and going in to the oil cooler but does not come out the other way means that my oil coolers is F up,right?
Now i did take the oil cooler the get cleaned up and i just got it back but they took out the bypass valve and i cant figure out how the thing goes back in,any pictures or write up on how to put this thing back together?now if after i install my cooler and redo my lines the problem still there is any other thing that can be done.


link to the thread
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...+after+rebuild


we seem to have the same problem i pm'd him to see if he could tell me what it was.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Did you do anything with the thermostat?

turbo-111

i think i took it out once to inspect its condition i also talked with rotorspecs and he gave me some ideas to try, for example i tryed priming with the turbo disconnected and no oil came out, he said sounds like im just not getting the oil out of the pan. then he remembered that somtimes the key that the sprocket sits on will come out and that it may just be sitting there spinning not picking up anything. well i had one hell of a time trying to get that thing on there so its possible that thats the problem however its raining now and ive pushed hte car out of my friends garage so i cant even work on it.....BBBBLLLLAAAHHHH.

anyone eles had the same problem like that

turbo-111

ok so joey pm'd me back and heres what he said

when i put together my oil pump i used a thick assembly lube and the problem was that the lube did not let the air come out the pump via the small loop hole on the front of the pump so it didnt create enough vacuum to move oil

now i used crisco and white lithum grease fro assembly lube i guess this could have easly happend to me...so how do i unclogged and get the vaccum back in my engine ? better yet how do i test if this has happened to me ?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

yup