i recently pulled my tranny. and put everything back in, but i didnt replace my release baring (throwout baring?) and i think i bled my release cylinder correctly, but maybe i didnt. But the clutch pedal just sticks to the floor.. Could my release baring be shot? or is my system not correctly bled?

 

it doesnt really move very much if i try to press the release fork with my hand either. maybe about an inch or so, this is quite frusterating

 

it's the hydrolics

bleed it better.

 

Bleed the system again, and check for leaks. And Why on Earth would you go through the hassle of replacing the tranny, and not do the Throw out bearing?

 

cuz the Throwought baring looked fine to me...

 

how the hell are you supposed to get #3 backin after u remove it?

 

s4 and s5 release cylinders are interchangeable right?

 

It's easy, I had this problem recently so I rebuilt the slave, but the problem was still there. So I bought the master rebuild and that did the trick, my reason for sticking to the floor was that the master cylinder return spring was completely worn out.

 

i dont see why my spring would wear out from putting a new tranny in, but ill put in a new slave/release and see if that works..if it doesnt ill check the master.

 

is your resevoir full when you bleeded it?
Because I had the same problem I kept trying to bleed it while the resevoir wasn't entirely full. I added some fluid to it and ever since it has been fine.

 

I need your opinion on my problem. i have an 86 non turbo and i have a problem with it sometimes sticking to the floor, sometimes its when your driving and sometimes when its sitting in place but i also loose fluid. Any help would be greatly appretionated

 

rebuild the master & slave cylinders and give it a good bleeding, your problems should go away....

 

Is there a rebuilt kit? How much is it, and where can i get it?

 

Rather than rebuilding suspected part, why not change the whole master cylinder that has new seals, springs, piston etc? These cars are old. Just change the whole part especially if it has springs in it. They're not very expensive and it will last far longer than just changing a few parts in there. You don't want a brake master or a clutch master fail on you. A clutch slave is another part that's cheap to replace.
As for the original topic, it's caused by:
1. air in the lines
2. bad clutch slave
or
3. bad clutch master
It's always #2 or #3 since #1 shouldn't happen if you don't open the lines.

 

I"Ve rebuilt them, but never had good results. I would just get new ones, although more money.

 

I bought a new slave already. 32 bucks

 

Be sure to test prior, my first new unit ended up being faulty. Leaked like a fizz out of the boot.

 

How much is a whole new thing. I'm only 15 workin a KFC. I have to get it fixed before October so I can drive it. My dad thinks I'll ended up hitting someone with my car if i don't get it fixed, He too paranoid.

 

if you do it yourself to replace the slave and master it shouldnt be over 100 bones if you get good deals on them.

 

This is about $100 and the best way to do it. Go to NOPI.com and order a new master cylinder, and a new slave cylinder. Then after you're done with that, go to mazdatrix.com and order a braided stainless steel clutch line(have it shipped priority mail). This all should arrive within 3-4 days. The buy some Brake fluid, and finish the project, oh, and you don't need the flare nut wrench, just be careful.

Good luck.

-Ian
16 years old w/ an 87 base, im sort of in the same boat as you.

 

Thanks, Do any of you guys know of any short shifter kits that come with the bushings, and the inner and middle shifter boots? I need all of it and while i'm doin it I miles will just put in a short shifter.

 

mazdatrix is where i got mine.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g4.htm

 

every time you pull the tranny out of an RX7 you need to change the pilot bearing...!!!!!!!!!! even if its just for a second... or no mjatter what you do

 

I put a new bearing in but didn't lube the spline a whole lot(Shot some canned Lituim grease on it) I didn't gunk it on you think it'll be good still?


Anyways. I am having the same problem on my turbo conversion. The Mastercylinder is bad.

The pedal will go all the way down and only engage/disengage at about 2 inches from the floor.

It has made starting from a stop pretty tricky on a rebuilt engine.

I have a New Slave cylinder which I got for like 25 bux from CHecker.
Mazdatrix SS clutch line.
And Old (Supposedly rebuilt Master)

I would recommend to contact Mazdaformance.com

These guys rock. They are a dealership in Texas which HOOKED us up on the Seven stock drive when stuff went down hill. I believe they give you a 15% discount as well! W00T!

Anyways keep it in the Rotary family! Screw Nopi. They ain't showed us no LUV!

 

I just bought a new slave.. i got it off ebay for 32 bucks shipped. You can get new masters/salves off mazdatrix, the slave was around 40 some bucks without shipping though