wtf clutch pedal sticks to the floor..
05-31-04, 05:55 PM
#26
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when your clutch pedal stuck to the floor would it go into gear? Cuz when I drive it and i go to shift into second it will stick and won't go into gear, but it doesn't do i every time, just even now and then?
05-31-04, 06:00 PM
#27
Oh yeah.
$65 bux from Mazdatrix for a Master Cylinder
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=41-400C-FB01
I owuld recommend to do the install yourself. It isn't that hard.
Undo a few lines and unbolt it from the firewall.
$65 bux from Mazdatrix for a Master Cylinder
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=41-400C-FB01
I owuld recommend to do the install yourself. It isn't that hard.
Undo a few lines and unbolt it from the firewall.
06-03-04, 02:26 PM
#28
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Brand new clutch release/slave cylinder just installed 30 mins ago. After bleeding the clutch (with plenty of help from my girlfriend) everything worked like a charm!
06-03-04, 02:31 PM
#30
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If you need clutch parts, i would recommend getting them from "aitaclutchinc " on ebay. That **** was shipped tuesday, and got here on thursday. Perfect part, etc etc.
06-03-04, 02:35 PM
#32
777** The Anti-rice
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
Cool, now that you have new cylinders, rebuild them every 25,000 miles or so, and you'll never have clutch hydraulic problems again...
Cool, now that you have new cylinders, rebuild them every 25,000 miles or so, and you'll never have clutch hydraulic problems again...
06-03-04, 02:53 PM
#34
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Past experience and experienced people have shown me to ALWAYS replace BOTH the slave and the master cylinder at the same time. They were both put in at the same time from the factory, and they're both worn the same. If you put a new one in, the higher pressure of the new one will kill the other. That's how it was explained to me, and my old car (eclipse), sorta proved it...
06-03-04, 03:56 PM
#35
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Originally posted by WonkoTheSane
Past experience and experienced people have shown me to ALWAYS replace BOTH the slave and the master cylinder at the same time. They were both put in at the same time from the factory, and they're both worn the same. If you put a new one in, the higher pressure of the new one will kill the other. That's how it was explained to me, and my old car (eclipse), sorta proved it...
Past experience and experienced people have shown me to ALWAYS replace BOTH the slave and the master cylinder at the same time. They were both put in at the same time from the factory, and they're both worn the same. If you put a new one in, the higher pressure of the new one will kill the other. That's how it was explained to me, and my old car (eclipse), sorta proved it...
Last edited by DEZERTE; 06-03-04 at 04:11 PM.
06-03-04, 04:50 PM
#36
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I don't know how you guys are ripping these things- when my engine was out last week I rebuilt the master & slave in like 10 minutes-still got the original ones in the car...both rebuild kits at my local auto parts store for less than $20, do it once a year or so...Make sure you lubricate the internal walls of the cylinders with brake fluid, and everything slides right in...the only "fun" part is holding the master piston down long enough to get the circlip back on, but that's no biggie after a little practice...
06-03-04, 07:50 PM
#38
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Could be...anybody that works in a particular field for 20 years is going to get good at it...A good habit to get into with any type of seal (o-rings, the piston skirt on the slave, etc...) is to lubricate them prior to assembly...What I do after I clean & inspect the cylinder bores, is fill the entire bore up with brake fluid, then let the fluid drain out of the attached line, which effectively flushes everything out left over from the cleaning..."rolling" the seal/piston as it enters the bore also helps...
06-04-04, 08:32 PM
#39
finally back in an RX-7!!
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if u need a new master cylinder, I'm selling one on e-bay now...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2481317302
(don't get mad at me mod's!)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2481317302
(don't get mad at me mod's!)
