hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

I'm going crazy now. New koyo radiator, black magic efan, new thermostat, new hoses .... and WITH the efan on at idle I'm showing 94C aka 200F.

Damn near dangerous levels.

WTF IS GOING ON !!!!! My car still isn't tuned and maybe being running super rich (my a/f is around 11.5) is causing the car to become super hot?

IDK wtf else to do.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

200° is hardly "near dangerous levels".

Where is your temp reading coming from?
Are the rad and hoses hot to the touch?

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

readouts coming from my microtech and stock water temp sender.

hoses and radiator both hot to touch. arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh .... im about to throw the towel in, and go to the dark side (300zx tt)

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Check- "recheck", I'd hope- coolant level.
How's the condition of the waterpump?
Confirm airflow through rad.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

this is at idle .. no airflow through radiator. checked temps by hand on radiator, and radiator is evenly heated (no cold spots).

Water pump should be fine, never really had one go out on me before. I may just go ahead and replace it as well.'


"Check- "recheck", I'd hope- coolant level."
huh ?

Coolant level is fine.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

You said the Black Magic was "on at idle", so there should be flow through the radiator.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

i set it so it would come on idle to see what the temps would be at when idling. got ya

ronbros3

block the bypass hole below the therm. and i keep my fan on all the time ignition is on.
also if you run a FMIC be sure to block the old hood scoop so NO air goes there.
been 2yrs and no overheat conditions.
runs 82-85C MT, tx. 95* days summmer,, 160*thermostat.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Why the hell would you want to block the old hood scoop? It definitely HELPS to cool my engine with it open. I can touch my manifolds after an hour on the freeway and they are barely warm. The OP has something else going wrong. Why don't you try going back to the stock fan & shroud? Or just sell your car to someone who has more patience for 7's.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the fan isn't working so well due to the shrouding. I think those black magic fans are overrated. A friend of mine put one on his FD and then took it off because the FD fans are way better from the factory.

Are you SURE you have all the air bubbles out? Use this funnel to bleed the air bubbles out:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0



it's an extra long funnel that seals to the radiator filler neck. You fill it with coolant and you can actually see bubbles leaving the engine. 95 C isn't going to hurt anything, but I understand you wanting it cooler. The factory FD cooling fans don't even come on until 105 C (seriously) on the stock FD ECU. Rx-8 fans come on at 98 C.

Factory thermostat cracks open at 82 C and opens full at 95 C, which is I believe 207 F

gkarmadi

iTrader: (20)

Do you have a larger than stock turbo?? If you do, do you have heat cover/wrap on ur turbo hotside and downpipe??
In my own experience with and without heatwrap is 10*F different.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Dumb question, but the fan is turning the correct direction, right?

94 degrees isn't the end of the world but if you are getting that temp at idle, then the car won't be drivable.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Obvious, maybe but "dumb", no.

cr7684

iTrader: (42)

Why don't you try going back to the stock fan & shroud? + 2 I'm running the stock fan & shroud!

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

with the stock shroud and fan wasnt giving me much better at all.

turbo is a hybrid with larger compressor wheels. and yes the fan is turning the correct way lol.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Get a Yellow Lisle Funnel as shown above, get the nose of the car up in the air (i.e., jacked up) and run the car until fully warmed up (15 to 30 mins). Make sure to turn your heater on full blast set to HOT so as to bleed any air out of your heater core. Sounds to me like you have an air bubble trapped somewhere in the engine. JMO!