I have a cheap everstart battery in the car it isn't the right cranking amps..(less) ( on the car when i bought it) It had no problems out of the car till winter when it started frying ecu's.... I was thinking maybe the battery was getting in worse shape through thte winter cuasing low amps to the system...would this fry the ecu? I read NOT to unplug the battery when the car was on, so wouldn't low amps confuse the ecu? Anyone? The car does worse when it isn't warmed up so that would be before the alternator had time to get to full operating ability right?


help me..

trevor

any info on the batteries effect of the car would be appreciated....

 

A low cranking amp rated battery will have no corelation to frying ecu's.

 

yeah that doesn't make any sense, i would say the only reason you could fry an ecu by disconnecting the battery is the possibility of a current spike or something like that. Sounds to me like you have other electrical issues. Now your other electrical issue could definitly correlate directly with the battery and the ecu, but i don't think a bad battery would ever cause any damage. That would mean that everytime you leave your lights on, or something similar you running the chance of frying your ecu, just wouldn't make sense...

 

unless you hooked it up backwards it has nothing to do with frying ecu's

 

I think you miss understood....The battery going dead would have nothing to do with this situation. so your line about that is inconciquential. what i am trying to figure out is WITH THE CAR RUNNING the car runs off your battery for the first little bit of operating time, as i understand it. Untill the alternator gets up to full operating capacity... Now my car pisses and acts crazy when it's not warmed up, so i thought ok maybe this is when it's running off the wrong size battery and not the alt.. PLUS wrong amperage can **** up an ecu my 99 olds fried an ecu due to a failing cell in the battery.. i just didn't know if the 7 had a similar operation systems as to where it would and could effect the ecu by varying amperage/ voltage to the ecu.......

 

You're a bit confused on how the electrical charging system works.

You cannot really control amperage - amperage is electrical draw.

The battery is always on, always active.

The battery is composed of 6 "cells'.
These cells are nominal 2.2 volts each.
Ideally, 6 x 2.2 = 13.2 volts.
This is the maximum the battery can output + or - 0.5 volts.

The battery is supposed to only used during cranking of the engine.
Once the engine is running, the alternator kicks in, and normally the alternator operates at a higher voltage level than the battery.

So, since the alternator is a higher voltage, the battery starts to ingest the higher voltage - this is the alternator "charging" the battery.  You would like the alternator to output a minimum of 1.0VDC and ideally 1.5VDC to 2.0VDC; too high voltage can kill the battery and fry your electronics.  This is electrical "potential" - high potential flowing to low potential.

At the same time, the battery is used as an electrical damper (the term "battery is used as a capacitor") to smooth out any voltage spikes the alternator spits out - the alternator does not output ruler-flat DC voltage.

The primary electrical source for all the vehicle electronics transfers from the battery to the alternator after the engine is running.

This how most modern automotive vehicle electrical charging systems work.


-Ted

 

gotcha......i asked and recieved..thanks