jerd_hambone

so i've been trying so hard to get another FC


well to my luck i found an 89 GTU


5 speed, red, black interior


59k original miles and i'm the 3rd owner


400 bucks is all i paid for the car





but its got some issues




it revs slow, and won't go past 4-5k


won't go faster than 60 miles per hour downhill wide open



and it will hardly idle at all





can someone please help me figure out whats wrong with this car?

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

get a haynes book and track it down yourself with the info u gave it could be anything. that would be the first step to fixn the problem

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

read through the FAQ, and the archives about a tune up. check compression to make sure you're not running a blown motor. and also the fuel system may be kinda gummy. send the injectors out for ultrasonic cleaning. witchhunter performance is great really good to deal with. (not advertising just a really satisfied customer)

TR

jerd_hambone

got a haynes


but it lists so many problems


just figured someone would have maybe been in the same situation and could tell me what their problem was

Ashyukun

iTrader: (3)

There's a whoooole lot of things it could be, especially with the relatively general description you've posted so far. The suggestions so far are good:

check the compression- if it's not compressing properly and is blown, nothing else you do is really going to improve things much until it's rebuilt.

TR's suggestion about the injectors isn't bad either- but you might try running some injector cleaner through the system first to see if that has any effect before you spend the $70 or so having all the injectors cleaned/tested will run.

It's an S5- could it be in limp mode? I most see posts about MOP problems putting them into limp mode, so you could look up the testing procedure for the MOP in the FSM.

Check to make sure that the throttle body linkages are all working properly and that the MAF is opening properly and not restricting the airflow.

But honestly- you paid $400 for the car, it's not wholly surprising that it's going to take a bit of work to get it running properly.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

$400 is very cheap price , good luck with fixing it.

I think the guy above me is right , the problem could very well be the car is running in limp mode, it sounds like theres a good chance.

mop/omp is your metering oil pump , its located on the front of the block on the bottom left corner and has 4 small clear lines coming off it.

This part is essential to your engine and if its bad it can cause you to blow the engine, which is why the ecu will put the car into limp mode to prevent the engine from blowing up due to the bad electronic omp.

Are you sure the car is running on both rotors ? If running on 1 rotor it will have crappy acceleration and idle , backfiring after you hit the gas, but Ive read stories of people hitting 90mph+ running on 1 rotor , so 60mph seems even weaker than running on 1 rotor, it would have to probably be running very low compression on that 1 rotor, and with the low mileage then engine has I wouldnt think it is running on 1 rotor already.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

I got mine to go 90mph on one rotor...

But yes do a full tuneup, go through the entire first chapter of the haynes guide.

13btII

check to see if you can feel anything out of the exhaust. if you can't then your cats could be clogged? just a suggestion.

jerd_hambone

already know the cats arn't clogged. i damn near got carbon monoxide poisoning from standing behind it haha


but i'm not really too worried about the engine being bad because as soon as i get enough money, its getting a new turbo engine with a fresh rebuild


but i want the car to do alright for those 5-6 weeks that i will be saving

lupin

iTrader: (3)

BEFORe anything compression check it!

if you wanna make sure everything is cool. I'd say buy a intake manifold gasket kit and a lot of vaccum line, and Replace all that crap. Make sure your 5th/6th aux ports aren't stuck. Replace all the fluids in the car from the rear end fluid to the antifreeze. Check all the grounds in the engine bay (if needed use a grinder to make sure for good contact).
Then I would start looking for the problem and it might be easier to find because you already checked a buttload of things out.

When I got my car I didn't do any of this stuff and in the end I needed a rebuild, it might not happen to you but stuff like this usually helps in the longrun.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Think of it this way. Is the body and the rest of the drivetrain worth $400?
$400 for a good roller isn't a bad deal.

Bama420

iTrader: (1)

Run the computer for codes. If you barely press the pedal does it have more power then when you put it down? Is your check engine light on? If so, then it may be your OMP (or MOP whatever) My OMP is bad and puts my comp into limp mode. It runs on one rotor and has barely any power. If I press the gas pedal too far when it's in limp mode it damn near stops. When in limp mode, you can turn the key off and then back on to reset the computer. I have gotten used to doing that. I bought my car in October and I should be getting a new OMP soon.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Compression test.

gxlbiscuit

sounds like my first rx7 ...KABOOM.. but it could be something else

SpooledupRacing

u paid 400.00 and u want our help... you lucky bastard figure it out yourself lol..

seriously I have no idea posibly limp mode but I doubt it.. keep us updated!!

jerd_hambone

haha the only thing wrong with the body is the clear coat is coming off on the hood and roof a bit, and one mirror is faded from red to white

the interior is great, it drives fine. the suspension, clutch, rearend, tranny, all is fine

just engine problems

Secondmessiah

on the off chance your OMP is bad, and causing it to be in limp mode: run premix

Ashyukun

iTrader: (3)

That won't do him any good though in getting it out of limp mode if it is the problem. That's one of the down-sides to the S5s, you can't just ditch the MOP like you can with S4s.

blmcquig

iTrader: (15)

whats that? S4s are better? oh, i suppose your right....

Ashyukun

iTrader: (3)

Heh. They've both got their good points. The S4s don't have the MOP limp mode issue, most people seem to think their clutch-type LSDs are better than the viscous ones the S5s used, and they generally weigh 80lbs or so less than their S5 model counterparts. The S5s though have some nice improvements like the radio surround that wasn't made of glass and the increased power out of the engine.

I've got a S4 vert, so I'm obviously slightly biased toward them- but that wouldn't stop me from dropping a S5 turbo engine in it without a second thought. :P

jerd_hambone

haha my s4 was so ugly compared to to my s5


and it smelled odd haha

jerd_hambone

so i'll try to give a better description of what the car is doing

it idles fine until it warms up, then it either doesn't idle, or the idle bounces inbetween 600 and 1k

it revs all the way to 8 1/2k

it has no pull, it will barely go 45 mph giving the car all hell

it won't pull uphill

check engine light isn't on



thats about all i can think thats wrong with the car

please help

jerd_hambone

well i believe we've discovered the problem

metal shavings in the oil

:[


aside for the engine, everything else is fine with the car, so i guess its time to go turbo :]

thanks for all the help

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Time for new motor!

jerd_hambone

hehe yup

sad to say that i didn't even get to drive the car or anything, i only got to take it down the road and back

but its fine, i was going to swap anyways