I got a bone stock 88 GXL, and I want to wake it up slightly, but still keep it reliable. I already have the air pump unhooked, but not off the engine yet, I also have RB Street Header and than straight piped the rest of the way back into magnaflows at the back. The 5/6th ports won't move, so I'm sure they are carboned up, and I'm afraid to drive it this summer and have a chunk break free and destroy my 94K mile engine.

I have another engine that I took out've my other 88 that I wrecked, and the 5/6th ports have been blocked off on the intake, I looked at the block and there are no inserts in either iron for the ports.

I want to use this other intake on my GXL because my other engine had much more power with the ports removed.

I have done my research on the forums, and know and understand of losing low end torque, but I don't believe that it will be a huge difference, because the other motor was easy to drive in town.

The opinions and questions I have are

While taking the entire intake apart, what else should I think about replacing? I already have all gaskets, going to delete OMP (have plate), plug off oil injectors, replacement master and slave clutch cylinder, going to buy a pulsation damper.

I have contemplated getting the inserts from pineapple racing, but not sure if they are worth the $50, or if I should just leave the ports bare on the irons.

Any parts I'm missing or opinions are appreciated

 

You're going to free up the 5/6th and ports to swap in the other intake so why not have them work properly and use the intake that's on it now? Just pulling them out as it is now will probably have as much risk for carbon flakes falling into the engine any way. I would just check to see if the actuators work first then see about freeing the ports up. Inserts or not functioning 5/6th ports are way better than just wired open ports. There's no real additional power gained on the top end from having them open all the time.

While you are in there you should see about getting replacement grommets and o-rings for the injectors.

 

I would also try to get the aux ports working, as well as "rebuilding" the fuel injectors.

You may want to consider installing an Aeromotive A1000-6 fuel pressure regulator that has a built-in pulsation damper. It is a lot more work than just replacing the OEM pulsation damper, but it is about the same price as the OEM damper and FPR, and it will do more for you in the long run if you plan on tweaking the engine tuning. If you aren't going to fine-tune the engine, then the OEM damper and FPR will work fine. Regardless, I always use new seals because I am paranoid.

Check the rubber fuel lines when you remove the upper intake manifold. If they are original, they are probably cracked in a scary way. Replace with SAE 30R9 hose. While you are at it, go to the trunk and see if the fuel pump hose is OK too.

If you haven't done it lately, I would recommend replacing the two oil filter pedestal O-rings.

 

Ah yes, i do have new o-rings and grommets for the injectors already, forgot to mention that.

I like the FPR idea, but i don't plan on going to crazy with the car.

Also, i forgot to mention both my actuators are seized up also, i took them off and tried to free them up, and wouldn't break free, car wasn't drove "properly" by the previous owner lol