so last month I go to start my car and it wont. (brand new engine) I notice the tach isn't bouncing so I immediately think the FI fuse is blown. turns out the be the computer fuse. I replace it. the car idles for a couple mins then goes again.

so today I rent a Ideal Tone Generator and the Amplifier Probe. I check everything and it's dead silent. I touch a spark plug wire and the probe starts making static. I trace is back to L2. so I disconnect the coil and put a fuse back in. soon as it makes contact the relay starts clicking like crazy.

the last t2 I seen this happen to the owner put in a 60amp fuse and it melted the main harness all the way back to the ECU. after replacing the dash harness. the same thing happened again. I touched the leading coil and it was ridiculously hot. we replaced the main relay, but I can't get a hold of the dude to see if it ever started.

anyone have something similar happen?

 

Focus on post #23 to provide some insight to the main relay.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+opening+relay

 

thanks, that will come in handy. now I guess the other bad part was I have a another coil, but the relay I took from my turbo coupe looks a lot different than the n350 in my vert.

 

EGI COMP fuse feeds all the ECU's small plug (B/W wire ) and also feeds all those solenoids on the left side of the engine along with the two solenoids on the ACV.

It's very unlikely the wire going to the ECU is the bad actor. It's most likely one of the B/W wires on the ACV that's shorting out or one of the B/W wires in the solenoid plugs on the left side of the engine.

It's not so much the Main Relay causing the short/blown EGI COMP fuse, but the B/W wire leaving the Main Relay has a short at one of the places it connects to.

The B/W also feeds a couple of other things I did not mention above.

See page 50-22 of the online wiring for series four and page 50-25 and follow the B/W wire from the Main Relay to the various places on the pages.