worthless stuff removal
worthless stuff removal
hopefully i get some guru answers...
this is NOT the 'rats nest' removal, i could have searched for that.
i am in the process of taking out ALL un-needed systems from my 1989 n/a, including a/c, and anything else i can find.
i have run into a few air hoses that run to nothing, that i want to remove. my main question... what are the advantages / disadvantages to removing the acv / anti-afterburn valve?
coming off of the ACV is a hose leading to the 'air chamber' which leads to the 'relief silencer', which (on my car) leads to nothing. (diagram on page F1-3 of the fsm)
now, according to the FSM, the ACV "Directs air to one of three locations: exhaust port, main converter, or relief air solenoid" [consists of 3 valves; relief valve, switching valve, anti-afterburn valve]
now, i have no cats (rb header back) so i cant see how the 'main converter' part of the acv activity matters to me. the relief air silencer *seems* to be just that, a kind of muffler for the air?
question is, can i take the acv off, (removing the anti-afterburn in the process) and everything will be ok? because as far as i can tell, this whole valve setup is doing nothing for me. i may be wrong, and that is why i ask before i do this... hopefully a guru can tell me whether i am being retarded or not.
thanks
tj
this is NOT the 'rats nest' removal, i could have searched for that.
i am in the process of taking out ALL un-needed systems from my 1989 n/a, including a/c, and anything else i can find.
i have run into a few air hoses that run to nothing, that i want to remove. my main question... what are the advantages / disadvantages to removing the acv / anti-afterburn valve?
coming off of the ACV is a hose leading to the 'air chamber' which leads to the 'relief silencer', which (on my car) leads to nothing. (diagram on page F1-3 of the fsm)
now, according to the FSM, the ACV "Directs air to one of three locations: exhaust port, main converter, or relief air solenoid" [consists of 3 valves; relief valve, switching valve, anti-afterburn valve]
now, i have no cats (rb header back) so i cant see how the 'main converter' part of the acv activity matters to me. the relief air silencer *seems* to be just that, a kind of muffler for the air?
question is, can i take the acv off, (removing the anti-afterburn in the process) and everything will be ok? because as far as i can tell, this whole valve setup is doing nothing for me. i may be wrong, and that is why i ask before i do this... hopefully a guru can tell me whether i am being retarded or not.
thanks
tj
just pull the acv off and cap the nipples and guy a blockoff plate... if you have a catalytic converter then this is a no no... but if you have gutted it or dont have a cat then yes pull it off cause it does nothing for you.... remove the air pump (pulley to the left of the water pump pulley) remove the acv and block it off with a proper plate and cap the nipples the hoses from the acv ran to..... its that easy
well ive been reading more
and apparently i need the acv to pass the air to open my aux ports / vdi... which i DEFINATELY want to keep. i just want to clean stuff up a bit, i can remove the hoses and the relief silencer and air chamber? i dont see why not, but input would be great!
if my S5 *NA* doesnt need the adv to open the ports, let me know so i can rip it apart.
thanks
and apparently i need the acv to pass the air to open my aux ports / vdi... which i DEFINATELY want to keep. i just want to clean stuff up a bit, i can remove the hoses and the relief silencer and air chamber? i dont see why not, but input would be great!if my S5 *NA* doesnt need the adv to open the ports, let me know so i can rip it apart.
thanks
Keep reading. The ACV wont open the ports without back presure from the exhoust. So it is being usless to you as well your 6pt is shut. You can look into moding the air pump to ACV to open it or wire them open as I did. Or look into archive as silver rotor posted a electric pump mod to open them as well a write up is on fc3s.org
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Originally Posted by iceblue
Keep reading. The ACV wont open the ports without back presure from the exhoust. So it is being usless to you as well your 6pt is shut. You can look into moding the air pump to ACV to open it or wire them open as I did. Or look into archive as silver rotor posted a electric pump mod to open them as well a write up is on fc3s.org
id look into the write up at Rotary ressurection (its called electronic 6 ports)... a lot of people have had good results with that one... thats the one ill be doing on aprils car when we get the spare money
christopher
christopher
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
I wish you would really research things before you post. He has a S5 N/A, no exhaust back pressure required! And if he wants to do a fully electronic setup, that write-up is the last thing he'd want to use, he's already got two RPM activated solenoids, all he'd need to do is hook up the pump to them and he'd be done, but since he's got his air pump still, he can just snag it from there.
yea its an s5 so no split air to the cat, no exhaust backpressure opening my ports... its airpump... but APPARENTLY i cannot remove the ACV because its a combination of airpump+acv that opens them...
heres another question on the same thread... can i rip out the 'air chamber' and 'relief silencer'? they seem worthless but i want to check first (fsm isnt helping on that)
heres another question on the same thread... can i rip out the 'air chamber' and 'relief silencer'? they seem worthless but i want to check first (fsm isnt helping on that)
Originally Posted by LookThatsMe
alright so i still have my cats in and i cant stand behind my car for a long time or my eyes start to burn and i have my air pump connected just the hose isnt connected to the cat is that bad?
once AGAIN:
heres another question on the same thread... can i rip out the 'air chamber' and 'relief silencer'? they seem worthless but i want to check first (fsm isnt helping on that)
heres another question on the same thread... can i rip out the 'air chamber' and 'relief silencer'? they seem worthless but i want to check first (fsm isnt helping on that)
its realy loud and annoying without them, makes your car sound like an R/C car. and the vac leak is where the split air pipe connected to my block, i can feel it sucking in air but i have nothing to cap it with cuz the pipe is like a half inch in diameter
this is starting to make sense, but i'm still unclear about what to do in the following scenario:
Series 5 N/A car with no cat converter.
Do you still keep ACV to pass the air required for the AUX actuators, or do you ditch the ACV and wire up electronic AUX activation (using the original solenoids of course, for 12v signal) ? or is it a judgement call?
it would be easiest to keep the ACV so it can still pass air to the AUX, but what do you do with the air flow that's supposed to go to the now non-existent cats?
Series 5 N/A car with no cat converter.
Do you still keep ACV to pass the air required for the AUX actuators, or do you ditch the ACV and wire up electronic AUX activation (using the original solenoids of course, for 12v signal) ? or is it a judgement call?
it would be easiest to keep the ACV so it can still pass air to the AUX, but what do you do with the air flow that's supposed to go to the now non-existent cats?
Why would you take the ACV out anyways? There is really no reason to get rid of it unless you have a stand alone. And leave the BAC in too, it doesn't rob any power, just lets your car idle right under load at idle.
Originally Posted by C-Murder
Why would you take the ACV out anyways? There is really no reason to get rid of it unless you have a stand alone. And leave the BAC in too, it doesn't rob any power, just lets your car idle right under load at idle.
I'm pretty sure I'll be leaving the ACV in untill I feel like riggin up electronic AUX + VDI. at that point, I can remove the airpump, so with no airpump and no cats there is NO FUNCTION for the ACV to perform right?
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