I agree, mine is supposedly rebuilt like 30k ago or something by the last owner, and it runs great never has hot start problems or weird smoke or anything, so do I worry? Not really. Once it starts having problems then I'll worry.

Also, according to RETed or Kevin Landers (can't remember who), he said that piston compression testers are not always accurate on the rotary, obviously, and will sometimes read low compression on a good engine. Best thing to do is have the tester used on a known good engine (you positively know the compression and condition are good) to find what a "good" reading for that tester is, then test yours and compare.

 

your putting plenty of oil in. i only use about 12-13 oz

make sure you doing the reading right - the pedal down, warmed up, shreader valve out, etc.

it still has some time to build compression.

 

You aren't cranking the engine for hours at a time.

Only a couple seconds. If you ran the engine till warm up you have injected your premix in w/ the injectors.

Let the car sit for 5-10 minutes and do the test.

The engines aren't swamped with oil in the chambers. It's a thin layer to reduce friction.

Another thought.
Why not just run your tank down to like 1/4 full then double up the premix. You will be smoking like a **** but you will have enough premix in there to leave some for your test.

Once done fill the tank up to dulute the high concentration.

DOH. Totally forgot you have to have the pedal in too

 

doubl'n the premix won't smoke.

i've done that

i've ran about 1:50 or something stupid. Seemed to work like normal.

it's b/c it's ashless and suppose to burn

 

ok my car will not start AT ALL when its hot. i just tried for 10 minutes. right after my 20 minute drive to work, i shut the car off in the parking lot and tried for 10 minutes to get it started again.

also, it took me 5-6 seconds of cranking to get it started cold this morning...

my engine is showing every sign of low compression..

 

It could be a few things. First, it could be normal gas flooding. Or it could be low compression. Or it could be blown coolant seals in the engine. This causes the coolant to spray back into the combustion chamber once the coolant system is under pressure and the car is turned off. Will it start if you pull the EGI fuse, crank for about 20 seconds, then reinstall the fuse and crank? Look for any smoke on startup.

-Joe

 

if the thing runs good, i wouldnt worry compression testers arent the most accurate instruments in the world. they are designed not to measure cylinder pressure but seperate you from money

 

The key is to compare all test w/ the same tester. Yuo can't switch instruments since one may read differently than another. Check your fluis, make sure you aren't losing anything (like coolant). If this problem just came up and the car has been starting ok w/ the rebuild I doubt it's a compression issue.

 

the hot start problem has been happening since i got the engine running in the first place. i was just expecting it to possibly go away as the compression builds. now it seems the compression has actually fallen instead.

i'm just confused as to how blocking off my OMP and boosting 5 lbs could drop my compression 20psi in a week.

edit: also, i wont have a warranty because my speedo gear is broken inside my trans...

 

This does sound like a compression problem, I hope you didn't pay too much for the block.

 

well, it got up to like 100psi by 1000 miles (should have been like upwards 120psi?) then just seemed to get worse after that. i have no record of mileage except 6 tanks of gas that i've gone through so i think that could possibly void every void that i could have had...

 

100psi is good for a rebuild.

120 is right off the assembly line compression.
Not many rebuilds can hit those numbers unless you have great housings and stuff.

I would say just keep driving it and stay out of boost for a while.

Put another 500 or so on the engine and see what it's doing.

 

mines not 100psi. it got up to100psi, now its back down to 80. thats the whole problem here

 

I'd contact atkins about it. Do you have a warranty?


*EDIT* Just noticed the part where you said you wouldn't have a warranty

 

yeah the car pulls pretty strong, it just has trouble starting if i turn it off hot and try to start it again.

still trying to figure out what i should do..

 

the weird thing is that the car pulls pretty strong... it just has trouble starting if i turn it off and try to start it immediately after.

it boosts and accelerates nicely though, so we're gonna dyno it saturday and see how much power its making. if the results are low then we will know exactly what the problem is

 

I wouldn't dyno it so soon... RETed and some other people have said not to put it on the dyno until full break in is done, and even RETed said not to do it for like 10k miles after rebuild.

 

how is dynoing it any different that just boosting in 4th gear?

 

RETed said for turbo's you dont want to dyno until after 10k miles, something like that, so you'd have to ask him. I'd think you'd AT LEAST want to wait until break in is over... I mean, putting unneeded wear and load on your engine before it's done breaking in isn't necessary, is it? Personally if I had a turbo and rebuilt the motor I wouldn't even put any boost through it until after 2k miles, and slowly increase the boosting up to about 4k miles just to be safe.

 

Also, you say you have around 1100 miles on your engine right? Well on a dyno you'll be taking it to redline right? According to break-in procedures you shouldn't do that until after 2k miles.

 

i've always been told to gradually start giving it boost and more revs after 1000 miles and everything should be gravy by 1500 miles

 

The things I've read said 2k miles. Kevin Landers at rotary resurrection says this on his site, the fc3s pro people (RETed) say this on fc3spro.com site, I dunno. Maybe it is 1500, maybe it's 2k, I trust kevin and RETed tho, so that's what I'm going to do when I rebuild my motor.