camman

89 tII. moslty stock. It intermittenly won't crank. The starter clicks but it won't crank. It has a good battery (4 months old and load tests good), new starter (2 days old) there is only a 0.02V or less voltage drop on both cables, and the engine turns by hand. Does anyone have any clue that can help me? I am thinking I might be getting coolant into the engine (lossing a little coolant and seems like there is more water sludge in oil filler neck than should be. Oh yea, it will push start fine, and jumping doesn't help.

Russo

fuses?

camman

all good

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

maybe clean the ground on the starter....?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

check the connections to the starter ..and I'd be cleanin the Ground points at the starter too(make sure the bolts are tight),..another thing you could do (if handy)..clean the main fuse connections..and if you happen to have an extra one throw it in "for the hell of it" ,just to see whether you have one Goin bad..(I've seen one give trouble ..it didn't fully Blow it..)..another Thing is to check and clean connections at the battery,and the ground points at the engine..Hope this helps.

HAILERS

Get under the car and jumper b/t the small blade on the solenoid (take the small wire off) and the large wire on the solenoid. The starter will spin. Make sure the car is out of gear.

IF it spins each and every time you jumper b/t the smalll blade and the large wire, then it seems to me there is something in the starter circuit that is not connected good. NO NOT the ground bullshit, I'm talking about the circuit from the small wire on the solenoid...... to the jumper plug under the trail coil assy........... to the interlock switch on the clutch............. and to the ignition switch.

If you do that jumper job using say a small screwdriver shank to make the jumper and it starts each time, then it can't be the battery terminals or the power connection on the solenoid nor the battery ground wire that terminates on the starters long, outboard bolt.

Whizbang

my TII does the same exact thing can i cant for the life of me figuer it out. ill have to try this.

camman

I've tested everything. I have done a complete voltage drop test. batt to cable, cable end to cable end, cable end to starter stud, starter case to trans, trans to engine, engine to ground cable end, ground cable end to cable end, cable end to neg batt terminal. ALL are less than 0.02V. voltage at S terminal is 11.8, battery voltage is 12.6. Possibly high resistance in S wire? Has anyone seen a problem with the S curcuit? PLEASE HELP!
p.s. all conections clean and tight. Proved by the voltage drop test.

Carzy Driver

Try using a new starter...

camman

starter is new

Mint87RX7

dude you have to have the car running with headlights or some electrical load on to do a voltage drop. there wont be any drop if there is no amperage flowing. you can flow 12v through a single strand of wire without a voltage drop, but turn on the headlights and they wont light up. do a voltage drop from +post to the starter WHILE cranking, i bet you see like 10v

HAILERS

If when you turn the key, all you hear is a click, that click is the starter solenoid.

Get under the car with it in neutral and put a jumper across the smalll blade on the starter to the large wire on the starter solenoid. IF your connections at the battery are good and the connections at the starter are good, the starter will turn over. It's that simple and I gauge would take approx 15 minutes to accomplish. It beats *wondering* what is wrong.

IF your squimish about getting under the car, then do this. Get a piece of electrical wire about two feet long with the ends bared.

Remove the nuts holding the Trail coil assy and lift it out of the way. Leave all its connector on. LOOK. There is a BLUE jumper connector under there with a single jumper wire in it.

REmove the Blue jumper connector. Put your bare wire into the socket that has the BLACK/WHITE wire in it. Now touch the other end to the battery positive post. The starter will turn over now if you solenoid is good and the power and ground wire on the starter are on good.

That is for a series four with NO THEFT PROTECTION. Theft Protected cars will not have the BLUE jumper connector.

camman

FIXED IT. I know this thread is forever old. But I just overhauled my Clutch master and slave. and when I was under the dash I noticed my two ignition wires to my ignition switch (the 14awg wires) had scotch locks on them, from the A/M alarm I riped out, and bare insulation. I took a closer look and saw that half of the wire strands cut from the scotch locks. (I hate those things!). So i removed the evil splicers and soldered the broken wires back together and since then I haven't had my starter click on me at all. I feel better knowing I wasn't far off on my thinking that I had a bad ignition switch. Just thought I would let you all know in case any of you had a similar problem.

NoDOHC

Thanks for following up, I really appreciate people telling what was actually wrong (a solution) rather than just posting 20 times when they have a problem and then falling out of space and time.

I have had several problems with my car due to a previous owner's security system. (It seems that people love to hack them in and seldom do a good job.)