Wise One/Circuit theory beater FC project
09-25-08, 01:48 AM
#1
Wise One/Circuit theory beater FC project
Well here is just a quick briefing on what this thread is all about.
My FC started out as a pretty solid car but has been beaten on pretty hard over here in Japan, so now it is pretty much our FC test platform car.
I bought the car after living in Japan for about 7 months and have since owned it for about 3 years. The guys here at Wise One Auto and I have now run the car on 4 different Hi-Flow turbo set ups. The first one I used was a little Garret t3/t4 type hi-flow turbo that was quickly discarded and changed out for a Panspeed Hi-flow turbo. The Panspeed Hi Flow had a larger compressor than the precvious turbo but didnt really produce much power. I then moved on to a Knightsports Hi-Flow Turbo. This was an excellent turbo and the car really moved with this turbo. Then I swapped that turbo out for the later model of the Knightsports Hi Flow. This was also a great turbo and had more power but also had a boost spike issue.
At that point I removed the rear actuator cover and pulled out the old electric grinder and ground the plate down about a 1/3rd of an inch. Then bent the actuator line arm to allow it to open up further. This solved my boost spike problem brilliantly. I drove it like this for about 4 months before I came across a different Hi-flow turbo that I had not seen before that used a Turbonetics turbo compressor. This one was considerably bigger than the Knightsports turbo.
At this point I decided to sell my Knightsports turbo and move up and test with this new Hi Flow I had found. Well my air temps were terrible with the stock mount I/C when I had the Knightsports turbo so this also turned into a front mount intercooler and radiator replacement job. Since the turbo was coming off I figured I might as well use that extra space to pull off my brake master cyl and booster and replace them, along with my transmission...
Putting in this new turbo meant I would have to hope my last solution to the boost spike would work with this even larger turbo
No chance, I didnt even want to waste time with that so it was time to step up and take the turbine housing to a friends machine shop and see how much material we could cut, grind, and drill out of the wastegate tubes. This also meant I had to lose the actuator
Although I dont like the sound of an open wastegate there really wasnt much else to do at this point. So the Koji here at Wise One auto cut away the out portion of the wastegate channels and welded up a larger tubo as well as a wastegate pipe, rear turbo flange and wastegate flange.
Once that was all done it was time to take it out and do some Power FC settings We got half of the settings done last night and then stopped for a 2am ramen dinner 
When we got back in the car and took it back out it felt just fine. Then as I did a 2nd to 3rd gear pull it felt like it had lost tons of power and was running super rich. Mr. Uehara at Wise One Auto leaned out the fuel map and it felt better but not the same. We checked the vacuum pressure and it was the same as before this issue. I pulled into the next parking/ rest area and we thought about it for a bit and that is when I realized my alternator belts were maxed out and after having cooled down and stretched a bit from testing and then eating they were most likely slipping and causing my spark to be weak.
I ordered new Alt. belts today and will also be putting in an HKS twin power to help with the spark. I have never used the hks twin power and dont expect much from it since it is just so dang small, I got it for free so I figure any more spark is better than the same or less.
So here is my engine before final install and I will get some pics of it now as it sits awaiting its final tune.
I will get a dyno graph and video up as soon as I have it all dialed in.
My FC started out as a pretty solid car but has been beaten on pretty hard over here in Japan, so now it is pretty much our FC test platform car.
I bought the car after living in Japan for about 7 months and have since owned it for about 3 years. The guys here at Wise One Auto and I have now run the car on 4 different Hi-Flow turbo set ups. The first one I used was a little Garret t3/t4 type hi-flow turbo that was quickly discarded and changed out for a Panspeed Hi-flow turbo. The Panspeed Hi Flow had a larger compressor than the precvious turbo but didnt really produce much power. I then moved on to a Knightsports Hi-Flow Turbo. This was an excellent turbo and the car really moved with this turbo. Then I swapped that turbo out for the later model of the Knightsports Hi Flow. This was also a great turbo and had more power but also had a boost spike issue.
At that point I removed the rear actuator cover and pulled out the old electric grinder and ground the plate down about a 1/3rd of an inch. Then bent the actuator line arm to allow it to open up further. This solved my boost spike problem brilliantly. I drove it like this for about 4 months before I came across a different Hi-flow turbo that I had not seen before that used a Turbonetics turbo compressor. This one was considerably bigger than the Knightsports turbo.
At this point I decided to sell my Knightsports turbo and move up and test with this new Hi Flow I had found. Well my air temps were terrible with the stock mount I/C when I had the Knightsports turbo so this also turned into a front mount intercooler and radiator replacement job. Since the turbo was coming off I figured I might as well use that extra space to pull off my brake master cyl and booster and replace them, along with my transmission...
Putting in this new turbo meant I would have to hope my last solution to the boost spike would work with this even larger turbo No chance, I didnt even want to waste time with that so it was time to step up and take the turbine housing to a friends machine shop and see how much material we could cut, grind, and drill out of the wastegate tubes. This also meant I had to lose the actuator Although I dont like the sound of an open wastegate there really wasnt much else to do at this point. So the Koji here at Wise One auto cut away the out portion of the wastegate channels and welded up a larger tubo as well as a wastegate pipe, rear turbo flange and wastegate flange.Once that was all done it was time to take it out and do some Power FC settings
We got half of the settings done last night and then stopped for a 2am ramen dinner When we got back in the car and took it back out it felt just fine. Then as I did a 2nd to 3rd gear pull it felt like it had lost tons of power and was running super rich. Mr. Uehara at Wise One Auto leaned out the fuel map and it felt better but not the same. We checked the vacuum pressure and it was the same as before this issue. I pulled into the next parking/ rest area and we thought about it for a bit and that is when I realized my alternator belts were maxed out and after having cooled down and stretched a bit from testing and then eating they were most likely slipping and causing my spark to be weak.I ordered new Alt. belts today and will also be putting in an HKS twin power to help with the spark. I have never used the hks twin power and dont expect much from it since it is just so dang small, I got it for free so I figure any more spark is better than the same or less.
So here is my engine before final install and I will get some pics of it now as it sits awaiting its final tune.
I will get a dyno graph and video up as soon as I have it all dialed in.
Last edited by Circuit Theory; 09-25-08 at 01:50 AM.
09-27-08, 12:00 AM
#4
Thanks Trini,
The intake is now finished and a Blow off valve has been added. The car is 90% used at the Circuit/track so I was planning to not use a BOV, however after doing the first initial settings I found that the intake filter had been blasted from turbo surge and was very deformed almost to the point that if I kept driving it in that condition eventually it would get sucked into the turbo under boost.
I am not saying our cars need a blow off valve but with the HKS foam filter cone intakes I think it is needed. It is also pretty important for those using their cars on a daily basis or those that want to keep their turbo for a longer time.
The intake is now finished and a Blow off valve has been added. The car is 90% used at the Circuit/track so I was planning to not use a BOV, however after doing the first initial settings I found that the intake filter had been blasted from turbo surge and was very deformed almost to the point that if I kept driving it in that condition eventually it would get sucked into the turbo under boost.
I am not saying our cars need a blow off valve but with the HKS foam filter cone intakes I think it is needed. It is also pretty important for those using their cars on a daily basis or those that want to keep their turbo for a longer time.
09-27-08, 07:02 AM
#5
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Nice work man!
Do you have any pics of the lower brackets you made to support the radiator? I just want to see the distance that the lower radiator hose has with the swaybar...
I am looking forward to see the finished product...
Do you have any pics of the lower brackets you made to support the radiator? I just want to see the distance that the lower radiator hose has with the swaybar...
I am looking forward to see the finished product...
09-27-08, 06:30 PM
#6
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BUMP man, keep up updated motor looking like a beast N I love the rims on your car 
If I had get ah 3rd Gen those would be the wheels I want to get. lol
Trini
If I had get ah 3rd Gen those would be the wheels I want to get. lolTrini
09-28-08, 05:14 AM
#7
Then as I did a 2nd to 3rd gear pull it felt like it had lost tons of power and was running super rich. Mr. Uehara at Wise One Auto leaned out the fuel map and it felt better but not the same. We checked the vacuum pressure and it was the same as before this issue.
Had the same symptoms with that issue one tuning run.Nice work on the turbo!
My "Hiflow" is similar. I started w/ a "standard" T04B 60-1 compressor and T04 "O" trim exhaust wheel in S5 turbo and had insane boost creep.
After going to clipped "P" trim exhaust wheel and externally vented ported stock wastegate with wastegate port I adapted a 60mm external wastegate with huge wastegate port.
Still had boost creep so I ported out the velocity stacks in the stock exhaust manifold and the runners large up to the wastegate passages- solved the problem.
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10-02-08, 09:12 PM
#8
NICE!!! I am really liking your exhaust manifold!
I had just put new NGK-R7625 plugs in the car before going out but I should check them out before I go back out for final tune with the new alternator belts on.
So what kind of power have you been able to see wtih your turbo Blue TII? Also what boost numbers are you seeing?
Thanks for sharing the pics!!!
I had just put new NGK-R7625 plugs in the car before going out but I should check them out before I go back out for final tune with the new alternator belts on.
So what kind of power have you been able to see wtih your turbo Blue TII? Also what boost numbers are you seeing?
Thanks for sharing the pics!!!
10-04-08, 01:14 AM
#9
I don't have access to a dyno so no #s. It was enough to spin 225 wide 200 treadwear street tires through 4th gear (but part of that is stiff 5k rear springs).
About 80% duty cycle on 720cc primary and 1600cc seconday inj and Bosch '044 at 10.5:1 AFR at peak torque (~6,500rpm).
I went to DOT R street tires for sanity's sake and got lots more miles out of them since they weren't always spinning. It could only spin the 245 RA1 through 2nd a bit in a straight line. Got some 275 NT01 on 9.5 inch rims for the rear now, but haven't tried them.
Boost from data logs is ~2psi off idle (1,000rpm), only ~7psi up to 2,500rpm and then quickly up to full 14psi boost by 3,300rpm in a 4th gear roll on.
When I had smaller ~55 deg closing intake ports and before the turbo exhaust housing and manifold porting it boosted more in the midrange, though full boost was the same rpm.
It was also down right twitchy responsive from 3,000rpm back then and now it is only like that above 5,000rpm. Next motor will have smaller intake ports again for sure
About 80% duty cycle on 720cc primary and 1600cc seconday inj and Bosch '044 at 10.5:1 AFR at peak torque (~6,500rpm).
I went to DOT R street tires for sanity's sake and got lots more miles out of them since they weren't always spinning. It could only spin the 245 RA1 through 2nd a bit in a straight line. Got some 275 NT01 on 9.5 inch rims for the rear now, but haven't tried them.
Boost from data logs is ~2psi off idle (1,000rpm), only ~7psi up to 2,500rpm and then quickly up to full 14psi boost by 3,300rpm in a 4th gear roll on.
When I had smaller ~55 deg closing intake ports and before the turbo exhaust housing and manifold porting it boosted more in the midrange, though full boost was the same rpm.
It was also down right twitchy responsive from 3,000rpm back then and now it is only like that above 5,000rpm. Next motor will have smaller intake ports again for sure
04-16-09, 07:03 AM
#14
Hey guys, I will update once I get this container done and we have time to take the car out for final settings.
With two slipping alternator belts I was still amazed with what the car felt like. Expected PS range would be around 415-430.
I have also added a HKS twin power, never used one myself and would like to see what kind of changes there are.
With two slipping alternator belts I was still amazed with what the car felt like. Expected PS range would be around 415-430.
I have also added a HKS twin power, never used one myself and would like to see what kind of changes there are.
07-20-09, 11:52 PM
#17
That block is just fit in there so it can't move. Once you run it a while the cracks carbon up shut.
If I were to do it again I would do it differently to make it easier. Just chuck the hotside up in a lathe and cut the turbine's exhaust exit from the back toward the front and machine a sleeve to press in.
Ran the car with new small street port, unclipped turbine and the 275/40-17 NT01 along with new softer dampened coilovers (FLT-TAR versus old FLT-A2) and an FD Torsen rear end.
At 12psi it has traction through 2nd gear now on warm clean asphalt and just almost has traction through 2nd on less ideal roads.
Less throttle now gets it hooked back up whereas with the large streetport it seemed no matter how little throttle you gave it above 5,000rpm it was the same as full throttle power.
If I were to do it again I would do it differently to make it easier. Just chuck the hotside up in a lathe and cut the turbine's exhaust exit from the back toward the front and machine a sleeve to press in.
Ran the car with new small street port, unclipped turbine and the 275/40-17 NT01 along with new softer dampened coilovers (FLT-TAR versus old FLT-A2) and an FD Torsen rear end.
At 12psi it has traction through 2nd gear now on warm clean asphalt and just almost has traction through 2nd on less ideal roads.
Less throttle now gets it hooked back up whereas with the large streetport it seemed no matter how little throttle you gave it above 5,000rpm it was the same as full throttle power.
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