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Quick question:
Dow do yall know these aren't 3 speed fans?
What happens if you hook power to both the fan power wires at the same time?
I did this on my villager/quest fan and it funs faster.
I'm thinking one pin is low, the other is medium, and both are high!
All of the different fans I've used (including the Lincoln) have run through a 30A fuse with no problems at all.
I'm unsure what Volvo claims for the relay assembly but I'm still on the original junkyard part I started with.
I don't believe the HIGH speed has ever come on in normal use but I have tested it and know it works as well.Dunno why the Ford relay failed.
Ahh, well I have the quest fan running on "super turboboost" (both positive wires ON) and it still gets over 100c with the A/C running on a hot day.
MY next plan is to take the FMIC off and run it on a hot day with a/c on and see if it's adding too much heat up front.
I'm thinking TMIC is a better answer for cooling, taking A/C into consideration.
We represent opposite sides of the fan install.
I have a wimpy engine and nothing in front of the radiator, you have a hotter motor (sorry Aaron!), an intercooler and the AC.
I live in a dry climate, you live in a swamp.
We represent opposite sides of the fan install.
I have a wimpy engine and nothing in front of the radiator, you have a hotter motor (sorry Aaron!), an intercooler and the AC.
I live in a dry climate, you live in a swamp.
I don't know how I would handle your setup.
Haha yes, I assume you live in Denver, or Oaxaca mexico... Either was a mile high is going t be dry.
I go have a thick koyo Rad. And the stock fan won't really fir with it.
I may have to get something like a black majc fan eventually.
Quick question; the volvo 2 stage relay - does that work by operating 2 fans independantly or is it high/low voltage on a single fan?
If the latter, does it have less start-up current draw on low than high or less current draw in general?
Ps cool dog. She pisses on your tyres because alpha bitch. You are working on her car.
Quick question; the volvo 2 stage relay - does that work by operating 2 fans independantly or is it high/low voltage on a single fan?
If the latter, does it have less start-up current draw on low than high or less current draw in general?
Ps cool dog. She pisses on your tyres because alpha bitch. You are working on her car.
The Volvo controller is designed for a single, two-stage fan, I have no idea what it would do with a dual setup.
I have two questions with regards to this picture: Attachment 710106
1) Is the 30 amp fuse box located in the Taurus or is that an aftermarket piece? I got my fan out of a 94 (?) Taurus 3.8L and it has a fuse block rather than individual fuse boxes. If it's from a Taurus, what year did it come from (if you know) and where is it in the engine bay? If it's an aftermarket piece, where did you get it?
2) How did you mount the Volvo relay?
Originally Posted by clokker
That fuse came from the Taurus I originally pulled the fan from.
It was bolted to the head.
I've never seen another like it but it was definitely OEM as I had to cut it from the harness.
The Volvo relay assembly has clips on the back and is meant to slide onto a flat piece of sheetmetal. I just cobbled up a simple bracket to slide it onto.
This thread has been a wealth of information, no point in letting a good question go unanswered, regardless of age!
That is a Littlefuse 152 series waterproof 60/80A fuse holder. I’m sure they provided it to Ford back in the day as an OEM part, but readily available for less than $30 as a kit from Digikey.
As many have said, I failed to find it documented anywhere in the Ford parts diagrams; I guess Clokker has just spent enough time in enough junkyards to get lucky!
It is immensely gratifying to see a ten year old thread still has relevance and is being used.
A quick update...
I'm still using that exact same fan and Volvo relay assembly today.
It has never failed and never been replaced.
The fuse has never tripped.
I don't know how I could improve on this install.
It is immensely gratifying to see a ten year old thread still has relevance and is being used.
A quick update...
I'm still using that exact same fan and Volvo relay assembly today.
It has never failed and never been replaced.
The fuse has never tripped.
I don't know how I could improve on this install.
It is immensely gratifying to see a ten year old thread still has relevance and is being used.
A quick update...
I'm still using that exact same fan and Volvo relay assembly today.
It has never failed and never been replaced.
The fuse has never tripped.
I don't know how I could improve on this install.
This thread has been INCREDIBLY helpful, thank you so much for your write-up. My FC is starting to get hot in traffic so the 35 year old fan clutch is probably on its last legs ha. Perfect opportunity to get a new rad with e-fan conversion. My buddy has a Volvo relay that he doesn't need so even more perfect.
Now, my debate is determining what thermoswitch to use. I like that the VW one that you use kicks in at 190 F, but I don't like that I'll have to deal with a M22. I was researching quite a bit on other options from various manufactures. Turns out it's kinda difficult to figure out which cars had dual temp switches AND to get their temp ratings, but nonetheless, I found some BMW options that look promising but I don't have enough experience with RX-7's to determine whether the temp ratings would work. Here they are:
BMW Dual Temp Switch 61318361787 (180/195 F)
BMW Dual Temp Switch 61311378073 (195/210 F)
I'm weary because I can't find one that kicks in at 190 F, but it's quite a bit smaller than the VW one and I see people using generic radiator hose joint adapters to fit them in. If I were to go with this route, I'm leaning towards the 195/210 F one since I would imagine that the 180 F one would be fighting the thermostat. So, my question is whether 195 F is too hot/late for low-speed fan operation. Would anyone be able to share some insight? For reference, my RX7 is NA with no A/C.
This thread has been INCREDIBLY helpful, thank you so much for your write-up. My FC is starting to get hot in traffic so the 35 year old fan clutch is probably on its last legs ha. Perfect opportunity to get a new rad with e-fan conversion. My buddy has a Volvo relay that he doesn't need so even more perfect.
Now, my debate is determining what thermoswitch to use. I like that the VW one that you use kicks in at 190 F, but I don't like that I'll have to deal with a M22. I was researching quite a bit on other options from various manufactures. Turns out it's kinda difficult to figure out which cars had dual temp switches AND to get their temp ratings, but nonetheless, I found some BMW options that look promising but I don't have enough experience with RX-7's to determine whether the temp ratings would work. Here they are:
BMW Dual Temp Switch 61318361787 (180/195 F)
BMW Dual Temp Switch 61311378073 (195/210 F)
I'm weary because I can't find one that kicks in at 190 F, but it's quite a bit smaller than the VW one and I see people using generic radiator hose joint adapters to fit them in. If I were to go with this route, I'm leaning towards the 195/210 F one since I would imagine that the 180 F one would be fighting the thermostat. So, my question is whether 195 F is too hot/late for low-speed fan operation. Would anyone be able to share some insight? For reference, my RX7 is NA with no A/C.
If you haven't figured out which switch I might get around to doing it with the higher temp rated one within the next month. I've finally gotten tired of my always on fan sucking down my battery after failing to finish this guide when I got my car 2 years ago. I think either switch works as long as it's saving the car before 220 F.
If you haven't figured out which switch I might get around to doing it with the higher temp rated one within the next month. I've finally gotten tired of my always on fan sucking down my battery after failing to finish this guide when I got my car 2 years ago. I think either switch works as long as it's saving the car before 220 F.
Yep, I finished it a few weeks ago and it works great! I used the 195/210 F switch from BMW. It's super easy since all your need is a generic coolant hose adapter from Amazon ($10) and drill and tap the appropriate thread into it (either M14x1.5 or 1.25, can't remember off the top of my head). This temp cycle works well with the t-stat and the fan cycles on/off at low speed when idling, I have yet to see the high speed fan kick on. The only finicky issue was figuring out which leads from the temp sensor correspond to each temp. Even though they're labeled inside the connector, I just double checked for continuity for each lead in a pot of hot water in the kitchen.
Yep, I finished it a few weeks ago and it works great! I used the 195/210 F switch from BMW. It's super easy since all your need is a generic coolant hose adapter from Amazon ($10) and drill and tap the appropriate thread into it (either M14x1.5 or 1.25, can't remember off the top of my head). This temp cycle works well with the t-stat and the fan cycles on/off at low speed when idling, I have yet to see the high speed fan kick on. The only finicky issue was figuring out which leads from the temp sensor correspond to each temp. Even though they're labeled inside the connector, I just double checked for continuity for each lead in a pot of hot water in the kitchen.
Sweet, glad you were able to make a great mod more convenient. Any chance you could post any pictures of the sensor location? Did you need a special pigtail?
Sweet, glad you were able to make a great mod more convenient. Any chance you could post any pictures of the sensor location? Did you need a special pigtail?
Yeah definitely!
You definitely do need a special pig tail, mine is a junkyard special. Just about every BMW from the 90s is going to have the same temperature sensor and they're all located on the upper passenger side of the rad. The only thing you need to be careful about is the temperature ratings depending on the car - T1 and T2 are noted on the sensor itself so just get the correct one (195/210 F). Or, you can do what I did and just order a new one from Rockauto to guarantee that the sensor works correctly, and go get a pigtail from the junkyard. The temperature adapter that I used is this one (just make sure to get the 40 mm one):
Here's where I mounted my Volvo two-speed relay box. The thing is pretty bulky but it fit fine on the inner driver side shock tower.
I also used the Nissan Quest fan. The Nissan Quest fan has it's own thread on the rx7club forums as a better alternative to the Taurus fan. I've never used the Taurus fan so I can't speak for its fitment, but the Nissan Quest almost seems like it was meant to fit our rads - just cut off the tabs and the lips on the left and right sides, and it's drop in. On a side note, it turns out that the famous Taurus fans are pretty hard to find now! Even in Michigan where I live, which is basically 75% domestic in the junkyards, I didn't find a single Taurus with an intact fan after 5 junk yards. People use them for so many applications that they've all been basically used up, I guess. I got lucky with the single Nissan Quest I came across.
You definitely do need a special pig tail, mine is a junkyard special. Just about every BMW from the 90s is going to have the same temperature sensor and they're all located on the upper passenger side of the rad. The only thing you need to be careful about is the temperature ratings depending on the car - T1 and T2 are noted on the sensor itself so just get the correct one (195/210 F). Or, you can do what I did and just order a new one from Rockauto to guarantee that the sensor works correctly, and go get a pigtail from the junkyard. The temperature adapter that I used is this one (just make sure to get the 40 mm one): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FY149S...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Here's where I mounted my Volvo two-speed relay box. The thing is pretty bulky but it fit fine on the inner driver side shock tower.
I also used the Nissan Quest fan. The Nissan Quest fan has it's own thread on the rx7club forums as a better alternative to the Taurus fan. I've never used the Taurus fan so I can't speak for its fitment, but the Nissan Quest almost seems like it was meant to fit our rads - just cut off the tabs and the lips on the left and right sides, and it's drop in. On a side note, it turns out that the famous Taurus fans are pretty hard to find now! Even in Michigan where I live, which is basically 75% domestic in the junkyards, I didn't find a single Taurus with an intact fan after 5 junk yards. People use them for so many applications that they've all been basically used up, I guess. I got lucky with the single Nissan Quest I came across.
Thanks! Luckily the PO of my car gave me a Taurus fan that I installed after blowing 2 stock rads
07-20-12, 06:15 PM
