Wiring Harness Differences Between '87 TII and NA?
05-26-07, 06:23 AM
#26
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On the X-16 you can see the (LgB).
That LgB is going to a power steering relay, that when pulled in will put a gnd on that wire. BUT since you don't have pwr steering, you have no worry there if it's left as is. ALTHOUGH, remember that YW in that plug is for the water temp sensor and someday should be mated with the YW in the X-15 plug.
NONE of this effects starting and idling though. Not a worry.
That LgB is going to a power steering relay, that when pulled in will put a gnd on that wire. BUT since you don't have pwr steering, you have no worry there if it's left as is. ALTHOUGH, remember that YW in that plug is for the water temp sensor and someday should be mated with the YW in the X-15 plug.
NONE of this effects starting and idling though. Not a worry.
05-26-07, 06:29 AM
#27
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By the way, on X-16 it shows (Lg). Not to worry about that. That on a turbo car is the Knock sensor input wire from the Knock Control Unit to the ECU. The socket is empty on the na EM harness so it's also not a player in messing things up during Start or idle or anytime at all.
05-26-07, 06:48 AM
#28
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And see the (W) wire on the EM harness. Well we know the na harness you have won't have a (W) wire but have a GB instead.
The GB goes to the auxillary fan temp switch on the water filler neck/boss/housing. Sooooooo if the water gets over something like 210F (memory), it'll put a gnd on that wire.
Sooooo, lets see. The GB on the EM is going to mate with the BL wire on the turbo Front harness plug. And what happens if we put a gnd on that wire??? Probably not much.
The BL on a turbo ECU is dedicated for the Split Air Solenoid (the (W) wire goes to that solenoid). I suppose you could leave that alone also as long as your not interested in the aux fan working normal and not worried about the Split Air Solenoid working. Split air solenoid only works in fifth anyway. No real loss there. I'd be inclined to depin that wire GB in the EM harness side of the X-16 plug or mate it up someday with the GB in the X-15.
But.....it's not going to stop or effect engine starting and running.
The GB goes to the auxillary fan temp switch on the water filler neck/boss/housing. Sooooooo if the water gets over something like 210F (memory), it'll put a gnd on that wire.
Sooooo, lets see. The GB on the EM is going to mate with the BL wire on the turbo Front harness plug. And what happens if we put a gnd on that wire??? Probably not much.
The BL on a turbo ECU is dedicated for the Split Air Solenoid (the (W) wire goes to that solenoid). I suppose you could leave that alone also as long as your not interested in the aux fan working normal and not worried about the Split Air Solenoid working. Split air solenoid only works in fifth anyway. No real loss there. I'd be inclined to depin that wire GB in the EM harness side of the X-16 plug or mate it up someday with the GB in the X-15.
But.....it's not going to stop or effect engine starting and running.
06-02-07, 09:46 AM
#29
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And see the (W) wire on the EM harness. Well we know the na harness you have won't have a (W) wire but have a GB instead.
The GB goes to the auxillary fan temp switch on the water filler neck/boss/housing. Sooooooo if the water gets over something like 210F (memory), it'll put a gnd on that wire.
Sooooo, lets see. The GB on the EM is going to mate with the BL wire on the turbo Front harness plug. And what happens if we put a gnd on that wire??? Probably not much.
The BL on a turbo ECU is dedicated for the Split Air Solenoid (the (W) wire goes to that solenoid). I suppose you could leave that alone also as long as your not interested in the aux fan working normal and not worried about the Split Air Solenoid working. Split air solenoid only works in fifth anyway. No real loss there. I'd be inclined to depin that wire GB in the EM harness side of the X-16 plug or mate it up someday with the GB in the X-15.
But.....it's not going to stop or effect engine starting and running.
The GB goes to the auxillary fan temp switch on the water filler neck/boss/housing. Sooooooo if the water gets over something like 210F (memory), it'll put a gnd on that wire.
Sooooo, lets see. The GB on the EM is going to mate with the BL wire on the turbo Front harness plug. And what happens if we put a gnd on that wire??? Probably not much.
The BL on a turbo ECU is dedicated for the Split Air Solenoid (the (W) wire goes to that solenoid). I suppose you could leave that alone also as long as your not interested in the aux fan working normal and not worried about the Split Air Solenoid working. Split air solenoid only works in fifth anyway. No real loss there. I'd be inclined to depin that wire GB in the EM harness side of the X-16 plug or mate it up someday with the GB in the X-15.
But.....it's not going to stop or effect engine starting and running.
okay, i checked the injectors by spinning the CAS, and, yes, they seem to be doing theyre thing. and afterwards, the car actually sputtered a bit, like it wanted to start off of the fuel that was spit out im guessing.
im wondering, do you think that the airtube going to the cat being left open could be causing a big enough air leak?
06-02-07, 10:10 AM
#30
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*****that the airtube going to the cat being left open could be causing a big enough air leak************
No. Not a chance. It does not lead to the intake air in anyway. When I remove my ACV/airpump/cat, I leave that opening open in the manifold since there's no point in capping that split air pipes feed hole.
Is the brake booster line coming off the back of the upper intake manifold connected to the brake booster feed line on the bulkhead???
IF this is a JSPEC engine the item above isn't true. It's brake feed line if in another place.
The sucker should be starting. You KNOW the cas wiring is good because you spun the cas gear and heard the clicking of the fuel injectors. You KNOW the spark is there because it sputtered.
The AFM plug is on because you looked.
The turbo inlet duct is on because you looked.
The approx 5.8ths hose from the BAC is going to the turbo outlet duct because you looked twice .
The turbo inlet duct has two *hose* connected to the aft side of it. One is a small line with a silver check valve and the other goes b/t the TID and the turbo outlet duct. Both in place.
You lined up the front pulley marks with the fixed pointer and installed the CAS right. Say, if the marks on the pulley are aligned with the fixed pointer and then you take the BLACK cover off the top of the CAS. do the two pointers on the top of the cas shaft cut across the edges of the two black coil devices??? Make sense? Maybe I'll find that jpg of what I'm describing.
I can't re-read this post, but have you tried to unplug the fuel pump connector and then sprayed for two/three seconds into the air snorkel/filter and then tried to start the engine????
No. Not a chance. It does not lead to the intake air in anyway. When I remove my ACV/airpump/cat, I leave that opening open in the manifold since there's no point in capping that split air pipes feed hole.
Is the brake booster line coming off the back of the upper intake manifold connected to the brake booster feed line on the bulkhead???
IF this is a JSPEC engine the item above isn't true. It's brake feed line if in another place.
The sucker should be starting. You KNOW the cas wiring is good because you spun the cas gear and heard the clicking of the fuel injectors. You KNOW the spark is there because it sputtered.
The AFM plug is on because you looked.
The turbo inlet duct is on because you looked.
The approx 5.8ths hose from the BAC is going to the turbo outlet duct because you looked twice .
The turbo inlet duct has two *hose* connected to the aft side of it. One is a small line with a silver check valve and the other goes b/t the TID and the turbo outlet duct. Both in place.
You lined up the front pulley marks with the fixed pointer and installed the CAS right. Say, if the marks on the pulley are aligned with the fixed pointer and then you take the BLACK cover off the top of the CAS. do the two pointers on the top of the cas shaft cut across the edges of the two black coil devices??? Make sense? Maybe I'll find that jpg of what I'm describing.
I can't re-read this post, but have you tried to unplug the fuel pump connector and then sprayed for two/three seconds into the air snorkel/filter and then tried to start the engine????
06-02-07, 03:16 PM
#31
06-02-07, 08:24 PM
#32
everything will be okay
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*****that the airtube going to the cat being left open could be causing a big enough air leak************
No. Not a chance. It does not lead to the intake air in anyway. When I remove my ACV/airpump/cat, I leave that opening open in the manifold since there's no point in capping that split air pipes feed hole.
Is the brake booster line coming off the back of the upper intake manifold connected to the brake booster feed line on the bulkhead???
IF this is a JSPEC engine the item above isn't true. It's brake feed line if in another place.
The sucker should be starting. You KNOW the cas wiring is good because you spun the cas gear and heard the clicking of the fuel injectors. You KNOW the spark is there because it sputtered.
The AFM plug is on because you looked.
The turbo inlet duct is on because you looked.
The approx 5.8ths hose from the BAC is going to the turbo outlet duct because you looked twice .
The turbo inlet duct has two *hose* connected to the aft side of it. One is a small line with a silver check valve and the other goes b/t the TID and the turbo outlet duct. Both in place.
You lined up the front pulley marks with the fixed pointer and installed the CAS right. Say, if the marks on the pulley are aligned with the fixed pointer and then you take the BLACK cover off the top of the CAS. do the two pointers on the top of the cas shaft cut across the edges of the two black coil devices??? Make sense? Maybe I'll find that jpg of what I'm describing.
I can't re-read this post, but have you tried to unplug the fuel pump connector and then sprayed for two/three seconds into the air snorkel/filter and then tried to start the engine????
No. Not a chance. It does not lead to the intake air in anyway. When I remove my ACV/airpump/cat, I leave that opening open in the manifold since there's no point in capping that split air pipes feed hole.
Is the brake booster line coming off the back of the upper intake manifold connected to the brake booster feed line on the bulkhead???
IF this is a JSPEC engine the item above isn't true. It's brake feed line if in another place.
The sucker should be starting. You KNOW the cas wiring is good because you spun the cas gear and heard the clicking of the fuel injectors. You KNOW the spark is there because it sputtered.
The AFM plug is on because you looked.
The turbo inlet duct is on because you looked.
The approx 5.8ths hose from the BAC is going to the turbo outlet duct because you looked twice .
The turbo inlet duct has two *hose* connected to the aft side of it. One is a small line with a silver check valve and the other goes b/t the TID and the turbo outlet duct. Both in place.
You lined up the front pulley marks with the fixed pointer and installed the CAS right. Say, if the marks on the pulley are aligned with the fixed pointer and then you take the BLACK cover off the top of the CAS. do the two pointers on the top of the cas shaft cut across the edges of the two black coil devices??? Make sense? Maybe I'll find that jpg of what I'm describing.
I can't re-read this post, but have you tried to unplug the fuel pump connector and then sprayed for two/three seconds into the air snorkel/filter and then tried to start the engine????
yes on EVERYTHING!! grr...
oh, and remember its not a turbo.
06-02-07, 08:37 PM
#33
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My bad, I remember now. Turbo to n/a.
If you jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key ON do you hear fuel returning to the tank? Should.
I'm out of idea now.
If you jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key ON do you hear fuel returning to the tank? Should.
I'm out of idea now.
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-02-07 at 08:45 PM.
06-23-07, 11:17 PM
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Did you ever get it to run right? Curious because Im doing the same thing with the same n338 ecu, harness, etc. into an s4 t2 shell. The n338 ecu will run the high imp. injectors no problem w/o a resistor pack right??
Im my case Im getting no fuel or spark, jumper the fuel pump check and no heard nothing. Ill still have to check for voltage, I didnt have MM at the time. What a PITA, well let me know how yours turn out, thanks.
So hailers, the n338 ecu has the same pinout as an n326 - 27 ecus'? Trying to read these wiring diagrams.
Im my case Im getting no fuel or spark, jumper the fuel pump check and no heard nothing. Ill still have to check for voltage, I didnt have MM at the time. What a PITA, well let me know how yours turn out, thanks.
So hailers, the n338 ecu has the same pinout as an n326 - 27 ecus'? Trying to read these wiring diagrams.
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