2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Wiring coil & igniter help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 03:38 PM
  #1  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Wiring coil & igniter help

Ok so the storie goes I screwed up and traded for this rx7 not knowing much I dove into it well my problem right now is mainly wiring this car has had so many ppl touch it's wires idk where to start I notice that someone cut one of the coil wire and now idk where to hook it up to it was connected to power but I'm not sure on that it's the blk wire on the pic anyone could tell me what it is

Wiring coil & igniter help-image-2618448023.jpg
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #2  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
I've searched on the wiring diagram but I keep getting the other two wire witch are ok but this blk wire idk I found a cut blk/white wire crimped together connected to the f-40 harness witch translates to check connector????
Lookin on page 50-28 f-32 b/w wire goes to the main and comes out blk and that's where I'm lost
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #3  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
If you are referring to the wire using the reddish connector well that wire should not be connected to anything as it is for diagnostic purposes so start w/that.
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 05:02 PM
  #4  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
yeah so i could jus remove that crimp and run like that
so there is no reason why it was conected to the battery wire
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #5  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
Just someone not comprehending what it's for.
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #6  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Don't want to make a new thread but what would these wires be the 3 that are connected to the top of the engine I'm guessing it's ground but I'm not sure wats with that blk wire going into the nut it's filled in by I believe some sort of jb weld silicone If these wires are ground couldn't I jus hook them up somewhere else don't like how it looks that's why Wiring coil & igniter help-image-4086365085.jpg
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #7  
misterstyx69's Avatar
Retired Moderator, RIP
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (142)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
That big nut with epoxy is a knock sensor.
That wiring is hideous.

If it's an S4 I would consider even getting an N/A harness and using it(cheaply had on here in the FS section).

I hate fixing other people's screw up's.
Start fresh.
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #8  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Nvrmd there jus ground so that would mean I could connect anywhere aslong as it's bare metal correct I'm still kinda lost on that blk wire

I also got these 2 wires that I don't know nothing about one is blue/blk and the other is a thick grey for some reason the blue/blk wire was cut and extended

Wiring coil & igniter help-image-690988278.jpg
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 12:35 PM
  #9  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Tell me about it and that's jus partial of what I'm fixing I would love to start fresh jus that I have lost some much on this build I can't put more into it until i can get it going again
Ok so I'm leaving the sensor alone for now wat about the blue and grey wire
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 01:25 PM
  #10  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
It's too hard to figure out what a single wire does when the info provided is a snapshot for it would be just a guess. If it was known which harness it was ( emission, engine, front etc) it would help in addition to at least where one end was connected to.
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 02:31 PM
  #11  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
ive been getting alot of info on pg 50-117 on the fsm its the (emission harness) btw im not too sure but i think the grey maybe the o2 sensor not sure

well based on how everything has been wired previously how can i check if im lookin at the o2 sensor wire or the knock sensor being that there both a thick grey wire does it really matter??? or do i have to look at a ecu pinout to determine that

i think its the 4th from the left on the large plug thats the knock sensor am i correct?????

do i need the fuel pump circuit terminal its not plugged into anything????
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 02:52 PM
  #12  
Akagis_white_comet's Avatar
Hey...Cut it out!
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 309
From: St Louis, MO
Styx is 110% right, a fresh harness makes troubleshooting infinitely simpler and easier.

If you're having difficulty finding what wire goes where, you might wish to feed the harness back up through the firewall and see what you're up against by doing a continuity test on each terminal in the two Emission Harness ECU connectors.

With your multimeter set to ohms, put one probe on the terminal that corresponds to the O2 sensor. Put the other probe on the O2 sensor connector. It should read ~0.1 ohms or less. If it reads infinite, there's no connector between the two probes along the length of wire you're testing.

Reason I suggest feeding it back up through the firewall is that it's very cramped in the passenger footwell of a FC and is significantly easier to test wiring when it's all under the hood and you're not hunched over the sill. Trust me, I've done it plenty of times and it sucks. It's also the reason Banzai Racing makes patch harnesses for easy modding

On a side note, but related, this would also be a good opportunity to extract the Windshield Wiper wiring from the rest of the Emission Harness. They're not actually connected, just 'packaged' together for convenience. The only thing that connects the Emission Harness to anything else on a S4NA is the Alternator connector. It can be de-pinned from Connector FEM-01/02 (can't remember which, check the FSM) with tweezers if you're careful.
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 03:09 PM
  #13  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
its actually a s4 t2 if it makes any difference well i guess i gotta pull that sucker out btw would you know if im correct on where the knock sensor is located on the ecu
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 03:21 PM
  #14  
Akagis_white_comet's Avatar
Hey...Cut it out!
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 309
From: St Louis, MO
Originally Posted by 87nitefc
its actually a s4 t2 if it makes any difference well i guess i gotta pull that sucker out btw would you know if im correct on where the knock sensor is located on the ecu
Not offhand, but check the ECU pinout and you'll find the input for it. IIRC, it's the same pin as the Power Steering input on a S4NA. As for the alternator connector, T2s have it as part of the Engine Harness, in the same bundle as the battery cables
Reply
Old Oct 6, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #15  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
thanks for the suggestion Akagis on pulling the harness im calling it a custom rewire now does injector plug in terms of left or right matter where its connected i got my primarys sorted jus got myslef overthinking it

pics soon to come:
Reply
Old Oct 6, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #16  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by 87nitefc
thanks for the suggestion Akagis on pulling the harness im calling it a custom rewire now does injector plug in terms of left or right matter where its connected i got my primarys sorted jus got myslef overthinking it

pics soon to come:
You have to make sure you have the primaries straight and not switched. Front primary is Light Green. Rear primary is Light Green/Black.
Reply
Old Oct 6, 2014 | 11:19 PM
  #17  
misterstyx69's Avatar
Retired Moderator, RIP
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (142)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Look into cutting the Power steering wire on the N/A harness at the ECU.
If you run the TII ecu/TII engine on the N/A harness then the Knock sensor will in turn have that wire.SO every time you turn the car the ECU will regulate timing.(not good!)
IF you cut the PS wire (like wire 3r or something like that..Look it up to confirm) you can just snip it and NOT hook up the Knock sensor.

IF you want the knock sensor you can always run one direct to the ECU.
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 12:38 PM
  #18  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Originally Posted by satch
You have to make sure you have the primaries straight and not switched. Front primary is Light Green. Rear primary is Light Green/Black.
hmm now im really lost im lookin at the fsm its telling me that front primary is LG/R and the rear primarys is LG its on pg 50-22/117 on the fsm am i reading it wrong
ima check again if i missed something
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 12:42 PM
  #19  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
Look into cutting the Power steering wire on the N/A harness at the ECU.
If you run the TII ecu/TII engine on the N/A harness then the Knock sensor will in turn have that wire.SO every time you turn the car the ECU will regulate timing.(not good!)
IF you cut the PS wire (like wire 3r or something like that..Look it up to confirm) you can just snip it and NOT hook up the Knock sensor.

IF you want the knock sensor you can always run one direct to the ECU.
I actually ended up tracing all the wires back to where the previous owner had started and corrected/cleaned up his work so im still using my TII harness
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 01:18 PM
  #20  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by 87nitefc
hmm now im really lost im lookin at the fsm its telling me that front primary is LG/R and the rear primarys is LG its on pg 50-22/117 on the fsm am i reading it wrong
ima check again if i missed something
LG is the front primary. It's the same for S4 and S5. And when in doubt a continuity would prove matters one way or another.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzy-...hl=en_US&pli=1

Last edited by satch; Oct 8, 2014 at 01:30 PM.
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 02:38 PM
  #21  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
thanks you styx,satch,akagis for all the great info
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 02:49 PM
  #22  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
oops

Originally Posted by satch
You have to make sure you have the primaries straight and not switched. Front primary is Light Green. Rear primary is Light Green/Black.
oops jus saw that under injector it says (f-s)''front secondary'' your right
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #23  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
Jus when things started to go smooth I run over my spark plug wires need a pair now gonna check a junk yard soon
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #24  
satch's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,738
Likes: 16
From: tulsa,ok.
Take an ohm meter w/you as they should not read above 10k ohms.
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #25  
87nitefc's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member: 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: canyon country
I would but the head actually ripped off my wire so that won't work
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:13 PM.