How is this done? Any feedback on the results ?

Thanks guys for the help

 

I reworked my aux ports system. And no one here is going to tell you that wiring them open is a good idea. N/A's have **** for low end torque anyway. Wiring them open removes any extra torque that you may have had below 4000 rpm. You'll spend every start at the stop light slipping the clutch until you're going 30.

Better to just keep the stock system, or a reworked system that effectively works as well as stock.

 

VDI:

 

whats the last picture off? what are we looking at excly. i have 87 and might be diff. but dont we tap into one line only ? and then atach one? meaning instead of have ing that metal part below with 4 hose attached shouldnt ther be the in and out and then the one like a nipple that comes off that the hose from the ports attaches to. should be one line we are tapping into the line with right cause theres only one going back to the cat . let me know please as i will be perroaming this mod today.

also

any ideas what could also be used to quiet the sound of straight pipes. if i use and old muffler i have laying around say like a n1 style and use it as a presilencer in in the spot where the main cat use to be and then have my nice muffler at the end , will that reduce the loudness?
thanks

 

anyone?

 

no one has any insight on the last pic he posted? not sure what kind of set up that is but from what other have explained to me and sent me this looks nothing like it. looks like he mounted something on the intake manifold i believe itis. black thing with hoses coming off.


also if you do the mod where you open the ports with the air pump. when the pressure does realease out of the open valve you install too,
is that going to be a noticable sound?

heheheh i bet not , was hoping to get lucky and make the blow off valve sound .

wouldnt been nice to get 20-30 more hourse and at the same time hear that pssssssss when you let of the gas.

 

"Kenteth" has used the air pump with no ACV to run both the Aux ports & the VDI on an S5.

 

"Kenteth" has used the air pump with no ACV to run both the Aux ports & the VDI on an S5 upper intake.

 

"Kenteth" has used the air pump with no ACV to run both the Aux ports & the VDI on an S5 upper intake.

 

lol I used an electronic airpump with no acv to run both the aux ports and the VDI on an S5 upper intake.

But thats only natural considering the car is a s5.

total cost of system was around $20 dollars. The airpump is activated via the original activation points via the emission solenoids. Solenoid opens, activates the airpump, airpump pressurizes the lines, opens the aux ports at 3800. Another solenoid opens the pressure to the VDI at 5800ish.

 

Like this:

 

The pump is activated only when the aux ports are needed to be opened. Noticeable sound? You have *NO* idea. BOV sound? No, it sounds more like a turbo spooling than it does a BOV releasing pressure.

If you want a BOV sound, they sell those stupid devices on ebay.

On my system, the exhaust hits a godo tone at 3k rpm, at which point the car lets all hell break loose and starts to climb like heck. At 3800 you ear the epump pick on and the rpms climb faster, at 5800 the VDI opens (no noticeable sound) and the rpmps jump from 5800 to 7500 in about half a second in low gears. When I shift, it drops back down to about 4000 (closing the VDI) and the epump stays running keeping the aux ports open. when I again hit 5800 the VDI opens again and rpms keep climbing until I again shift. Usually on this shift I have to let off the gas to keep from going way over the speed limit.

Only problem with my settup is that the epump will shut off if the throttle isn't over 1/2. The pressure in the aux lines takes 2-3 seconds to drop, so it takes similar time to close the ports. As long as you can granny shift in 2 or three seconds, and hit the gas again, the ports will be open the entire time.

Oh... and if you do let off the gas at a high rpm with no shift, the air flowing through the aux ports pushes uncombusted gas through the exhaust and you hear one nasty backfire that (sounds) as loud as a gunshot in the cabin.

Let me put it like this...going around a corner from stop sucks because of **** torque under 3k. If I hit 3k in the corner, the car instantly whips around and pegs the tach because of the loss of traction.

 

Aux and VDI solenoids for activation. Slightly different on S4s, I believe icemark had the ruling on that one.



cluster fack


Vac gauge + LED that lights when the epump is activated + LED that lights when the VDI opens.

 

My little video - Aux ports & VDI working - dual exhaust.
click to download 2M video

 

are you saying i will always have back fire when i let of the gas?

and also, will this mode give me any problems ? im going to use hte air pump method tapping into it. i was told it will open the ports at around 3 to 3200 rpms. instead of the 3800. i have a automatic so i hope the hesitation wont do anything to the motor or tranny. so many mixed advices its hard to pick the right one.

 

I always wanted to get a video of mine opening, because it looks sweet. But the engine bay is the *LAST* place I want to be when to be when revving that high. Mechanical clutch fan = scary and windy

Errm..video not of engine bay. And I think your clutch skipped when you went into second. Or was that tires?

 

I removed all emissions. I get back fires on a very regular basis after the exhaust is warmed up. Basicaly every shift where I do left off the gas equivalents some sort of backfire.

Mod give you problems? Wiring them= **** low torque.
Automatic = **** low torque anyway...

unless you removed all your emissions and did the TB mod, I doubt you'll have much problems with backfiring. I was just stupid and removed everything to make stuff easy to deal with.

That said... do the 5spd swap. It makes the car a completely different vehicle. I did it. It took me 6 months because I couldn't source the parts very well. In reality if you bought all the parts ahead of time, its a weekend job.

 

now you just need solenoid colors on that thing...

EDIT:

 

Here's my electric pump install.


The blue wire is the pump-on signal source:

 

I still can't believe you kept the entire rack after all that..

 

If it aint broke, I don't fix it.

 

what was wrong with the stock aux activation?