maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

yea all the engine bay fuses are good. iv checked them many times. i just got it running. i had to use starting fluid. now im doing what hailers said and gonna wire the wires together for the inhibitor switch and then gonna see if it starts right away.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The reason I suggested to check the Comp fuse is because it powers the B/W at pin 3I which you had just stated had only a couple of volts to it w/key to on. Now it might be possible that the Inhibitor switch is a player in your problem but it has no bearing on the voltage reading at pin 3I so obviously if the reading you took at this pin, which showed low voltage w/key to on, that it is caused by something completely unrelated to the Inhibitor switch.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

i jumpered the black red wire on the harness now the car fires right up. but it will still only have spark if i leave the jumper in the w/b to the b/w wire. as soon as i took it off the car died. so now im gonna try to trace the b\w wire to where it comes from. i just went down and double checked the fuse. where would the b/w wire get its power from? the fuse box?i have a loose wire somewhere if it works half the time. now the car is cutting out and missing while running. if u hold it to a certain rpm it dies completely. u have to feather the pedal. or go full throttle. i am gonna go over the wiring alittle later tonight and see if i missed something on the new harness. what do u think would cause it do cut out and try to die at a certain rpm. i was thinking the afm. but it was fine before.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Somethings needs to be clarified. Pin 3J is a White/Blue wire which is shown as W/L and not W/B for W/B means White/Black. Secondly, from what you are saying is you are jumpering the bottom left pin which is pin 3J (W/L) to pin 3I (B/W). Now in post #50 I stated where pin 3I (B/W) gets its voltage from. If you take a voltage reading at any of the emission solenoids w/key to on, which each has two wires and one of them is B/W, which is the very same B/W wire at pin 3I. If this wire does not have voltage then it will greatly help in narrowing down where the B/W wire is becoming problematic.

EDIT: If the B/W wire at any of the emission solenoids do not have voltage w/key to on then you need to go to the Main relay and disconnect it from its mount and turn it over and with no key necessary check for constant voltage on the White/Blue wire in the relay plug which will have four wires in it. If this wire does have voltage then w/key to on check for voltage on the B/W wire in this same plug. If it doesn't have voltage then the problem is with the Main relay. If the B/W wire (in the four wire plug) at this relay does have voltage w/key to on then the problem is further down the line as the B/W wire at connector FEM-02 needs to be checked w/key to on. At this connector there are two B/W wires on one side of the connector (emission side) and three B/W wires on the other side (front side).

satch

iTrader: (1)

^Correction to the above. There are two B/W wires on both sides of connector FEM-02.

HAILERS2

The White/Blue wire on the small plug is powered by the ROOM fuse in the interior via the BTN fuse in the engine bay.

That said........I can run my cars all day long with that blue/white wire unpowered or the BTN fuse pulled or the ROOM fuse pulled. It''s some sort of memory power to the ECU that frankly does little for my cars.

See jpg attached. The wires in the dwg are viewed from the wire side of the plugs and you read a plug from right to left in a up/down fashion. So that wire is in socket 3J.

I don't understand how the jpgs work on this forum anymore. I can't enlarge them once they are opened. Crummy way to view squat. Also when going down the list of threads on the first page you get a pop up of the thread you have your cursor on ...........but nobody on gods green earth can read the words in the small time frame the pop up is open. Yet another thing that sucks on this forum.

The inhibitor switch plug should look like the one in the attached jpg. You jumpered it and now that start problem is taken care of............but you now have other problems.

I guess you could leave the jumper in the small plug B/W to W/L and start the car. Then pull the BTN fuse in the engine bay fuse box. If the car dies then it's the W/L that is powering the ECU which is WRONG (but works for now) so then you do need to find out why the B/W isn't getting power. B/W as has been said somewhere earlier gets its power thur the Main Relay via the EGI COMP fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Make sure the EGI COMP fuse is good.

HAILERS2

Did I understand you right in that you put a TURBO EM harness on the car recently? Seems you removed the one you had there and replaced it. Replaced it with?? what? Turbo EM.

EM harness is the one that goes to the engine/injectors/boost sensor etc. There are problems mating a Trubo EM harness with a non turbo Front harness.

HAILERS2

There's sort of a quick way to see if the power on the B/W is getting thru the MainRelay or not.

Find the GREEN SIX SOCKET check connector near the Lead coil assy. One wire in that plug is B/W and with key ON and the EGI COMP fuse good, it should have batt volage on it. IF it does not..........seems the problem lies with the EGI COMP fuse or the Main Relay not passing power thru it. I"ve never seen a bad Main Relay yet. If it pulls in when the key is put to ON.........then it should pass power thru to the computer/injectors etc.

That might save you the trouble of pulling the FEM-02 apart.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

Yes I put a new em harness on. But it Was a s4 n/a harness