will only start with starting fluid but then runs perfect.
01-16-11, 08:24 PM
#27
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i jumped the wire and all i got was clicking. sounded like a relay. i check the room fuse and its good and also the btn fuse in the engine bay is good. i wonder if this has always been this way. i had to pump the heck out of the last engine to get it to start. maybe this is the cause.
01-17-11, 12:47 PM
#28
Locate your emission solenoids and you'll notice each solenoid has two wires and of these two wires one wire is Black/White. This B/W wire should have voltage w/key to on. If it doesn't then a likely explanation is the orange connector FEM-02 is not mated properly. Checking for voltage on the B/W wire w/key to on ought to take but 30 seconds of time if that.
01-17-11, 01:37 PM
#29
I say rewire the fuel system the right way. Its really not that complicated. Really just a few relays and sensors. Just make sure you have a good signal from the coolant temp sensors and the correct signal from pin 3b which connects to the starter.
Also as hailers mentioned, too many people rig their cars when there are much more elegant solutions. The voltage sensor he mentioned earlier seems to be an excellent idea.
Also as hailers mentioned, too many people rig their cars when there are much more elegant solutions. The voltage sensor he mentioned earlier seems to be an excellent idea.
01-17-11, 03:52 PM
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i checked the voltage on the bottom side coming from the chasis harness and it only reads 0.01 volts. my battery has 12.10 volts so i know i have the meter set right. i guess now ill trace the black and blue wire back to where it comes from and see why its not getting power.
01-17-11, 04:07 PM
#31
i checked the voltage on the bottom side coming from the chasis harness and it only reads 0.01 volts. my battery has 12.10 volts so i know i have the meter set right. i guess now ill trace the black and blue wire back to where it comes from and see why its not getting power.
The White/Blue wire at pin 3J would have battery voltage 24/7.
Pin 3I (Black/White wire) would have battery voltage w/key to on.
EDIT: If pin 3J and pin 3I behave as stated then it appears the the wire that represents the "start circuit" which travels to the ECU and arrives at pin 3B is damaged.
01-17-11, 06:38 PM
#32
Rotary Freak
i jumped the wire and all i got was clicking. sounded like a relay. i check the room fuse and its good and also the btn fuse in the engine bay is good. i wonder if this has always been this way. i had to pump the heck out of the last engine to get it to start. maybe this is the cause.
But its obvious that the starter turns when you go to START.
It would help me if I knew which relay is clicking. Hard to do when your over there jumpering the ECU's small plug. There IS a relay on early series four cars that is a part of the HEATER/BLOWER motor assy. IF the click is NOT from the blower motor assy..........I'd say your hearing the Circuit Opening Relay clicking and its located just above the steering column and has a yellow base.
Tell you what, as far as I'm concerned the COLD START problem (some other posters don't seem to realize this engine starts FINE once warmed up so it isn't the fuel pump related)......is that lack of batt voltage showing up on the black/blue wire (pin 3B on the small plug). So I'm curious if one just jumpered batt voltage to the 3B and left that jumpered............and then started the car cold......will it now start up fine when cold.....or not. I've a sacraficial 86 non turbo car that I can try that on tomorrow morning. I'll let you know how that turned out and if there were any after effects.
I very much doubt there are any bad consequences to doing so. BECAUSE we all know it gets almost full batt voltage every time a normal RX starts up. And after the engine goes over 500 rpm.......then the START FUEL MAP is not used anymore and it matters not if the 3B sees voltage all the time.
That said and knowing that..........I'd never leave the 3B with full batt pwer all the time. I'd find out why the wiring circuit is open from the start wiring to 3B.
I KNOW how hard a cold RX is to start in 32* weather. I tried that last week and I cranked and cranked and cranked and cranked etc that sucker forever (wearing the starter out) and did finally get it to start. It would make small backfires on occasion doing that bs. I'd never do that again. It wears the starters out big time.
I can do that same crank, crank, crank, crank in cold weather.........then just reach over and reinstall the black/blue wire in 3B and WALLA, the engine starts right up. It now has ENOUGH fuel to start.
01-17-11, 06:47 PM
#33
Rotary Freak
I'll assume you know where the Circuit Opening Relay is located. It has a yellow base and is just above the steering column.
So to try to find out where the break is in the wiring to the ECU, try this.
Lay on the gnd and reach up to the starter and pull the small trigger wire off the solenoid.
Now get back in the car and turn the key to START. Of course the starter won't spin BUT on a normal series four RX, the Circuit Opening Relay will CLICK each time the key is put from ON to START. Don't mistake the click for another relay somewhere else. The MAIN RELAY will only click if the key is to OFF and then put to ON. So leave the key in ON and put it to START several times and listen for the click each time.
IF you hear the cCircuit Opening RElay click each time, that at least tells us that the power is getting there and act as a CLUE.
So to try to find out where the break is in the wiring to the ECU, try this.
Lay on the gnd and reach up to the starter and pull the small trigger wire off the solenoid.
Now get back in the car and turn the key to START. Of course the starter won't spin BUT on a normal series four RX, the Circuit Opening Relay will CLICK each time the key is put from ON to START. Don't mistake the click for another relay somewhere else. The MAIN RELAY will only click if the key is to OFF and then put to ON. So leave the key in ON and put it to START several times and listen for the click each time.
IF you hear the cCircuit Opening RElay click each time, that at least tells us that the power is getting there and act as a CLUE.
01-17-11, 06:52 PM
#34
Rotary Freak
Well FUDGE.......there's no way I can jumper power to my cars 3B as I mentioned earlier. IF I do that.......the starter will spin ALLLLL the time forever.
You could do that 'cause your wiring circuit to the starter to 3B is open. You can do this and it will hurt nothing and the car I suspect will now start cold. Give it a go.
I gotta ask this..........you did a turbo engne swap. Did you use the stock non turbo harnesses or do you now have a mishmash of turbo/non turbo harness in the car??????? Gotta know that so we don't waste your time.
IF the wiring is stk non turbo...........did this car have ABS??? or not? Car NEVER was a automatic was it??? IF it was, then that would explain somethings related to the start problem.
You could do that 'cause your wiring circuit to the starter to 3B is open. You can do this and it will hurt nothing and the car I suspect will now start cold. Give it a go.
I gotta ask this..........you did a turbo engne swap. Did you use the stock non turbo harnesses or do you now have a mishmash of turbo/non turbo harness in the car??????? Gotta know that so we don't waste your time.
IF the wiring is stk non turbo...........did this car have ABS??? or not? Car NEVER was a automatic was it??? IF it was, then that would explain somethings related to the start problem.
01-17-11, 07:32 PM
#35
Rotary Freak
Once upon a time most series four cars had a SUB ZERO motor . A SUB ZERO motor was but a small washer pump inside a small plastic tank filled with fluid. This tank was located in the area of the wiper motor but more to the right of the wiper mtr.
The subzero tank and motor are probably missing on your car.........BUT the two wire electrical plug is still there laying about doing nothing worthwhile. It has two wires. Both Black/Red.
Now listen closely. Each time you hold the key to START on a NORMAL RX, one of the two black/red wires will get power from the starter circuit. Soooooo if this is the case with your car, you could get a piece of electrical wire of the 18-22 ga from the auto store.........put a spade connector on that new wire and put the spade in the fore mentioned two wire connector where the HOT black/red is. Then route the other end of you new wire to the ECU's small plug and attach it to the 3B (black/blue wire). Now you'd have the signal needed for COLD starts.
But first you'd need to make sure one of those two black/red wire is indeed getting power when the key is HELD to START.
Or as mentioned several days ago....................buy some 18-22ga wire from AutoZone. Buy two vampire wire splices from AutoZone (I forget what the real name is for vampire connectors).
The use a vampire connector to connect a long piece of wire to the small TRIGGER wire on the starter solenoid (that's the small ga wire that pulls off the starter easily). Then run the rest of th wire on the ground over and into the passengers side and use another vampire connector to attaach your new wire to the Black/Blue wire at 3B. Then try to start the car cold and see what happens.
The subzero tank and motor are probably missing on your car.........BUT the two wire electrical plug is still there laying about doing nothing worthwhile. It has two wires. Both Black/Red.
Now listen closely. Each time you hold the key to START on a NORMAL RX, one of the two black/red wires will get power from the starter circuit. Soooooo if this is the case with your car, you could get a piece of electrical wire of the 18-22 ga from the auto store.........put a spade connector on that new wire and put the spade in the fore mentioned two wire connector where the HOT black/red is. Then route the other end of you new wire to the ECU's small plug and attach it to the 3B (black/blue wire). Now you'd have the signal needed for COLD starts.
But first you'd need to make sure one of those two black/red wire is indeed getting power when the key is HELD to START.
Or as mentioned several days ago....................buy some 18-22ga wire from AutoZone. Buy two vampire wire splices from AutoZone (I forget what the real name is for vampire connectors).
The use a vampire connector to connect a long piece of wire to the small TRIGGER wire on the starter solenoid (that's the small ga wire that pulls off the starter easily). Then run the rest of th wire on the ground over and into the passengers side and use another vampire connector to attaach your new wire to the Black/Blue wire at 3B. Then try to start the car cold and see what happens.
01-18-11, 01:19 PM
#36
Once upon a time most series four cars had a SUB ZERO motor . A SUB ZERO motor was but a small washer pump inside a small plastic tank filled with fluid. This tank was located in the area of the wiper motor but more to the right of the wiper mtr.
The subzero tank and motor are probably missing on your car.........BUT the two wire electrical plug is still there laying about doing nothing worthwhile. It has two wires. Both Black/Red.
Now listen closely. Each time you hold the key to START on a NORMAL RX, one of the two black/red wires will get power from the starter circuit. Soooooo if this is the case with your car, you could get a piece of electrical wire of the 18-22 ga from the auto store.........put a spade connector on that new wire and put the spade in the fore mentioned two wire connector where the HOT black/red is. Then route the other end of you new wire to the ECU's small plug and attach it to the 3B (black/blue wire). Now you'd have the signal needed for COLD starts.
But first you'd need to make sure one of those two black/red wire is indeed getting power when the key is HELD to START.
Or as mentioned several days ago....................buy some 18-22ga wire from AutoZone. Buy two vampire wire splices from AutoZone (I forget what the real name is for vampire connectors).
The use a vampire connector to connect a long piece of wire to the small TRIGGER wire on the starter solenoid (that's the small ga wire that pulls off the starter easily). Then run the rest of th wire on the ground over and into the passengers side and use another vampire connector to attaach your new wire to the Black/Blue wire at 3B. Then try to start the car cold and see what happens.
The subzero tank and motor are probably missing on your car.........BUT the two wire electrical plug is still there laying about doing nothing worthwhile. It has two wires. Both Black/Red.
Now listen closely. Each time you hold the key to START on a NORMAL RX, one of the two black/red wires will get power from the starter circuit. Soooooo if this is the case with your car, you could get a piece of electrical wire of the 18-22 ga from the auto store.........put a spade connector on that new wire and put the spade in the fore mentioned two wire connector where the HOT black/red is. Then route the other end of you new wire to the ECU's small plug and attach it to the 3B (black/blue wire). Now you'd have the signal needed for COLD starts.
But first you'd need to make sure one of those two black/red wire is indeed getting power when the key is HELD to START.
Or as mentioned several days ago....................buy some 18-22ga wire from AutoZone. Buy two vampire wire splices from AutoZone (I forget what the real name is for vampire connectors).
The use a vampire connector to connect a long piece of wire to the small TRIGGER wire on the starter solenoid (that's the small ga wire that pulls off the starter easily). Then run the rest of th wire on the ground over and into the passengers side and use another vampire connector to attaach your new wire to the Black/Blue wire at 3B. Then try to start the car cold and see what happens.
01-18-11, 01:51 PM
#37
Rotary Freak
Vampire.......down and dirty. We're in a hurry.
I looked at my car today. The two wire plug that gets a start signal for the Subzero assist is there in the engine bay, branching out of the harness about a foot to the right of the wiper motor. Just under/near the cruise control actuator. The plugs two sockets form a TEE shape. The HOT wire during START is the top of the tee. Both wire colors are black/red. Don't mess with the plug if the wire colors are different than that.
I'll back pedal a bit. It could be a fuel problem in a fashion. When you HOLD the key to START, not only do you send a signal to the ECU's pin 3B, but also to the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump as long as the key is HELD to START.
If the engine actually does start then the SECOND coil in the circuit opening relay keeps the relay pulled in. It does this by the vane in the AFM moving aft at least a 1/8 th inch which in turn puts a gnd on that second relay coil in the circuit opening relay.
Just saying.................spraying starter fluid into the airfilter and then the engine actually starting causes the vane in the afm to move aft which in turn causes the fuel pump to run or keep running.
Sooooo...........I might suggest jumpering the yellow two pin fuel pump check connector near the boost sensor and then key to ON and listen for the pump running continuously..or not. Should run all the time with the jumper in there.
If you already know the pump has been running.......ignore this. We know the pump runs once started, that's a given, but does it run with the key to ON and the fuel pump check connector jumpered ??
Or another way to check this.........lay on the gnd and reach up and pull the starters small trigger wire off the starter solenoid. Then get in the car and HOLD the key to START. You should hear the pump run continuously with the key to START. You don't have to jumper the fuel pump check connector to do this. IF you don't hear the pump running like this............it's back to the lack of a signal from the START circuit to the wiring other than the starter solenoid itself. Time for a vampire and a long piece of 18-22 ga wire as described in a earlier post of mine.
I'd take a moment to check out that black/red wire in the SUBZERO start assist plug first. IF power is there HOLDING the key to START...........then run a wire from there to pin 3B of the ECU small plug and with all connectors connected start the car.
I looked at my car today. The two wire plug that gets a start signal for the Subzero assist is there in the engine bay, branching out of the harness about a foot to the right of the wiper motor. Just under/near the cruise control actuator. The plugs two sockets form a TEE shape. The HOT wire during START is the top of the tee. Both wire colors are black/red. Don't mess with the plug if the wire colors are different than that.
I'll back pedal a bit. It could be a fuel problem in a fashion. When you HOLD the key to START, not only do you send a signal to the ECU's pin 3B, but also to the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump as long as the key is HELD to START.
If the engine actually does start then the SECOND coil in the circuit opening relay keeps the relay pulled in. It does this by the vane in the AFM moving aft at least a 1/8 th inch which in turn puts a gnd on that second relay coil in the circuit opening relay.
Just saying.................spraying starter fluid into the airfilter and then the engine actually starting causes the vane in the afm to move aft which in turn causes the fuel pump to run or keep running.
Sooooo...........I might suggest jumpering the yellow two pin fuel pump check connector near the boost sensor and then key to ON and listen for the pump running continuously..or not. Should run all the time with the jumper in there.
If you already know the pump has been running.......ignore this. We know the pump runs once started, that's a given, but does it run with the key to ON and the fuel pump check connector jumpered ??
Or another way to check this.........lay on the gnd and reach up and pull the starters small trigger wire off the starter solenoid. Then get in the car and HOLD the key to START. You should hear the pump run continuously with the key to START. You don't have to jumper the fuel pump check connector to do this. IF you don't hear the pump running like this............it's back to the lack of a signal from the START circuit to the wiring other than the starter solenoid itself. Time for a vampire and a long piece of 18-22 ga wire as described in a earlier post of mine.
I'd take a moment to check out that black/red wire in the SUBZERO start assist plug first. IF power is there HOLDING the key to START...........then run a wire from there to pin 3B of the ECU small plug and with all connectors connected start the car.
01-18-11, 04:28 PM
#38
AsianBoyFC
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check all of your relays like the main fuel relay (located on the driver tower) and the other one under neath the driver steering wheel (yellow looking fuse). After that clean your MAF. You can always test your car by direct wiring it to the battery.
01-18-11, 04:56 PM
#39
Rotary Freak
The AFM has NOTHING to do with the START CYCLE.
Hid Main Relay is working just fine and dandy.
01-19-11, 07:39 PM
#40
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The car was a automatic at one time. Didn't know that Would be a problem sorry For Not mentioning it. I used a non Turbo harness on my Turbo swap and extended the tps wires. I work nights and sleep all day so the Only time I have To work on this is on the weekends. I'm gonna try the subzero wires this weekend. The fuel pump is hardwired to the fuse box. It has a walhbro 255 in it. It runs alllll the time. Unless I have it in a fuse location That cuts off when u try to start it. Dummy me. Ill check to.make sure it stays running while its being cranked. But I guess That still wouldn't explain no.start signal. I'm gonna bust my *** on it This weekend. We are getting 10 inches of snow tonight so I might not be Working the next few days.
I really appreciate all ur guys help. Sorry I.haven't been responding much. They got us work 65 hours a week in 5 days so I work and sleep. Ill get back with u With the info u want soon. Thanks again guys. Ryan
I really appreciate all ur guys help. Sorry I.haven't been responding much. They got us work 65 hours a week in 5 days so I work and sleep. Ill get back with u With the info u want soon. Thanks again guys. Ryan
01-19-11, 10:33 PM
#41
Rotary Freak
That's the CLUE I've been looking for. The change from automatic to manual
The START circuit is different on the automatic cars as far as the start signal getting to the ECU's pin 3B on a series four car.
A manual car has a CLUTCH PEDAL interlock switch. Automatic cars do not have a clutch interlock switch, it has a INHIBITOR switch as part of the auto transmission.
So in my way of thinking..........whoever put the manual transmission/clutch pedal in the car, HAD to alter the Start signal wiring. Alter it in this way.......the signal used to go thru the automatic Inhibitor switch and does not go thru there anymore 'cause it got removed with the automatic transmission. So someone had to do SOMETHING to reroute that start signal around the switch that does not exist anymore. When he did that, he routed the wiring in such a way as to bypass the path of the signal to the ECU's pin 3B.
How they did this I don't know. Actually the online diagrams leave me wondering a bit 'cause it shows a INTERLOCK switch in the start circuit whether or not its automatic or manual.
I need to thunk on that a bit.
I think the thing I'd do right now when you can........is do what I suggested earlier. Get a long piece of electrical wire that you'll attach to the small trigger wire on the starter solenoid.............and run that wire under the car (lay it on the ground is what I mean by that) and run it into the passengers side and STUFF it into the back of pin 3B (the BLACK/BLUE wire in the small ECU plug......bottom row......far right looking from the wire side of the small plug).......and then go start the car cold.
This is a temporary *fix* to see if it works or not. SHOULD work and make the cold engine start up.
I'm in no hurry to fix this. Do your work first and when time permits try what I suggested. Again..........I'm in no hurry, all three of my cars work fine...humor.
The START circuit is different on the automatic cars as far as the start signal getting to the ECU's pin 3B on a series four car.
A manual car has a CLUTCH PEDAL interlock switch. Automatic cars do not have a clutch interlock switch, it has a INHIBITOR switch as part of the auto transmission.
So in my way of thinking..........whoever put the manual transmission/clutch pedal in the car, HAD to alter the Start signal wiring. Alter it in this way.......the signal used to go thru the automatic Inhibitor switch and does not go thru there anymore 'cause it got removed with the automatic transmission. So someone had to do SOMETHING to reroute that start signal around the switch that does not exist anymore. When he did that, he routed the wiring in such a way as to bypass the path of the signal to the ECU's pin 3B.
How they did this I don't know. Actually the online diagrams leave me wondering a bit 'cause it shows a INTERLOCK switch in the start circuit whether or not its automatic or manual.
I need to thunk on that a bit.
I think the thing I'd do right now when you can........is do what I suggested earlier. Get a long piece of electrical wire that you'll attach to the small trigger wire on the starter solenoid.............and run that wire under the car (lay it on the ground is what I mean by that) and run it into the passengers side and STUFF it into the back of pin 3B (the BLACK/BLUE wire in the small ECU plug......bottom row......far right looking from the wire side of the small plug).......and then go start the car cold.
This is a temporary *fix* to see if it works or not. SHOULD work and make the cold engine start up.
I'm in no hurry to fix this. Do your work first and when time permits try what I suggested. Again..........I'm in no hurry, all three of my cars work fine...humor.
01-19-11, 10:43 PM
#42
Rotary Freak
If anybody KNOWS where the INTERLOCK SWITCH is on a AUTOMATIC car is........pipe in and make a remark. We KNOW it's on the clutch pedal of the manual car, but where is it on a automatic car??????
If it's the INHIBITOR SWITCH..............then the FSM manual dwg for the start system is drawn wrong. I say that because that dwg shows the Interlock switch and makes no side note that this exists only on a manual car.
I'll go look in the Transmission section of the FSM to find a clue.
If it's the INHIBITOR SWITCH..............then the FSM manual dwg for the start system is drawn wrong. I say that because that dwg shows the Interlock switch and makes no side note that this exists only on a manual car.
I'll go look in the Transmission section of the FSM to find a clue.
01-19-11, 11:02 PM
#43
If anybody KNOWS where the INTERLOCK SWITCH is on a AUTOMATIC car is........pipe in and make a remark. We KNOW it's on the clutch pedal of the manual car, but where is it on a automatic car??????
If it's the INHIBITOR SWITCH..............then the FSM manual dwg for the start system is drawn wrong. I say that because that dwg shows the Interlock switch and makes no side note that this exists only on a manual car.
I'll go look in the Transmission section of the FSM to find a clue.
If it's the INHIBITOR SWITCH..............then the FSM manual dwg for the start system is drawn wrong. I say that because that dwg shows the Interlock switch and makes no side note that this exists only on a manual car.
I'll go look in the Transmission section of the FSM to find a clue.
I believe the B/R wire from the ignition switch on an auto goes directly to the blue plug/Starter Cut relay.
I believe the diagram is an either or type of representation as if it's an auto there is no Interlock but the Inhibitor or if it's a manual then there is the Interlock but no sign of the Inhibitor.
01-19-11, 11:05 PM
#44
Rotary Freak
Well I didn't look very long. I looked at the series FIVE wiring manual and it's CLEAR as a bell there is no INTERLOCK switch on a automatic car but there is the inhibitor switch instead.
So the series four wiring showing the START/CHARGING circuit is wrong in that it clearly shows a INERLOCK switch in the diagram and makes no note that this does not exist on a automatic car. It does indeed show the Inhibitor switch though in that diagram (which does not exist on your car anymore 'cause the auto was replaced with a manual).
But the electrical plug for that Inhibitor switch probably still exists on the harness and is just laying about. If a person did a swap like this all he'd have to do to make the starter work......would be to jumper that plug that WAS attached to the inhibitor switch and all would be well.
That electrical plug seems to be on the underside of the car. It seems to be a four wire plug. One wire is Black/Yellow.........the one next to it Black/White.........and on the bottom row a Red/Green and next to it a Black/Red wire.
Jumpering the Black/Red to the Black/White would complete the circuit to the starter.....ECU and Circuit Opening relay.
The Red/Green and the Black/Yellow were used on the automatic to turn on the Reverse lights when ........in reverse. Ignore them if you find this plug. I suspect the plug is close to where the auto transmission was (duh!).
Then again I dont know what was done to the wiring to make the starter work after the swap from auto to manual.
So the series four wiring showing the START/CHARGING circuit is wrong in that it clearly shows a INERLOCK switch in the diagram and makes no note that this does not exist on a automatic car. It does indeed show the Inhibitor switch though in that diagram (which does not exist on your car anymore 'cause the auto was replaced with a manual).
But the electrical plug for that Inhibitor switch probably still exists on the harness and is just laying about. If a person did a swap like this all he'd have to do to make the starter work......would be to jumper that plug that WAS attached to the inhibitor switch and all would be well.
That electrical plug seems to be on the underside of the car. It seems to be a four wire plug. One wire is Black/Yellow.........the one next to it Black/White.........and on the bottom row a Red/Green and next to it a Black/Red wire.
Jumpering the Black/Red to the Black/White would complete the circuit to the starter.....ECU and Circuit Opening relay.
The Red/Green and the Black/Yellow were used on the automatic to turn on the Reverse lights when ........in reverse. Ignore them if you find this plug. I suspect the plug is close to where the auto transmission was (duh!).
Then again I dont know what was done to the wiring to make the starter work after the swap from auto to manual.
01-24-11, 01:25 AM
#45
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well hailers i ran into another problem. when i unhooked the engine harness from the 2 side yellow plugs up by the side of the car i lost all spark when i plugged them back in. i got a new engine harness on the way. im looking at my manual to see what wires runs my coils. im starting to get fed up with this car. im about to give up. this thing is a piece of sh*t.
01-24-11, 02:17 AM
#46
Rotary Freak
Probably blew the ENGINE fuse in the interior. Third row of fuses from the bottom.....second fuse counting from the left when looking into the interior fuse box.
Or maybe a better idea is one of the two EGI fuse in the engine bay. The 40 amp EGI INJ fuse. I'd check that one first before looking at the ENGINE fuse.
On a 88 all the wires from the coils to the ECU are in the large plug attached to the ECU. But the wire that powers the lead and trail coils (black/yellow) also goes into one of the large Yellow (more orange than yellow) plugs that attach to the *engine* harness plugs in the interior.
Might see if there's batt voltage on the Black/Yellow at the Lead coil assy. There's a smalll white, two wire elect plug attached to the lead coil assy and that black/yellow should show batt voltage if the key is put to ON.
The ECU itself gets fed batt voltage thru one of the two orange looking plugs and it's called FEM-02. That orange in color plug has 13 sockets and it's a Black/white wire in that connection that feeds power to the ECU on the small ECU plug. That power comes from the other EGI fuse in the engine bay. No power there means no trigger voltage to the coil assy's. The OTHER orange colored plug has fifteen sockets.
Hard to access those two plugs imho.
I think we're talking about the same two plugs in the passengers side of the foot well and they attach to the *engine* harness. I think they are really more orange in color than yellow.
Or maybe a better idea is one of the two EGI fuse in the engine bay. The 40 amp EGI INJ fuse. I'd check that one first before looking at the ENGINE fuse.
On a 88 all the wires from the coils to the ECU are in the large plug attached to the ECU. But the wire that powers the lead and trail coils (black/yellow) also goes into one of the large Yellow (more orange than yellow) plugs that attach to the *engine* harness plugs in the interior.
Might see if there's batt voltage on the Black/Yellow at the Lead coil assy. There's a smalll white, two wire elect plug attached to the lead coil assy and that black/yellow should show batt voltage if the key is put to ON.
The ECU itself gets fed batt voltage thru one of the two orange looking plugs and it's called FEM-02. That orange in color plug has 13 sockets and it's a Black/white wire in that connection that feeds power to the ECU on the small ECU plug. That power comes from the other EGI fuse in the engine bay. No power there means no trigger voltage to the coil assy's. The OTHER orange colored plug has fifteen sockets.
Hard to access those two plugs imho.
I think we're talking about the same two plugs in the passengers side of the foot well and they attach to the *engine* harness. I think they are really more orange in color than yellow.
01-24-11, 02:35 PM
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Yes those are the 2 I'm talking about. They are unbolted from the side of the car so they aren't to bad. I'm gonna wake up tomorrow and do some voltage testing.
01-30-11, 10:21 PM
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i put a whole new engine harness on it and still no spark. just crazy how it had spark with it all plugged in and then unplug it and plug it back in and nothing. i have 12.75 volts at the coil on the yellow black wire. the black and white wire on the small plug on the ecu only has 2.43 volts with key on. and the white wire below it has 12.75 volts with key on.
01-30-11, 10:55 PM
#50
i put a whole new engine harness on it and still no spark. just crazy how it had spark with it all plugged in and then unplug it and plug it back in and nothing. i have 12.75 volts at the coil on the yellow black wire. the black and white wire on the small plug on the ecu only has 2.43 volts with key on. and the white wire below it has 12.75 volts with key on.