First off, mods are in my sig.

Within a week or two, I'm going to be replacing my exhaust with a RacingBeat Turboback.

Now, my car is my daily driver (Yeah yeah), and I can't afford to blow the engine.

I was told that, with my current setup, I will blow my engine if I boost higher than about 6 PSI.

Now frankly - this scares the hell out of me. I've got about 1000 miles on my rebuild, and I'm going to wait another 1000 until I start boosting, but the prospect of me blowing my motor soon after that is down right frightening.

I was told I'll be victim to detonation with my current setup because the stock ECU cannot handle the timing and other things.

Now, here's my question: Do I need to wait until I replace my ECU with a Haltech E6K (Next mod on list after RB Turboback) before I should start boosting, to keep it safe?

Also, do I even need a boost controller? I'm running a Greddy Profec B Spec II, but if I should wait until E6K before really getting on the juice, should I just sell the boost controller and spend the money towards the Haltech?

Do I need a boost controller, if I run a Haltech tuned to my desired PSI? (9-10) Also, if I do an E6K swap, and I sell my Profec B Spec II, Fuel Cut Defensor, and Stock ECU?

Thanks in advance guys. I don't want to screw this up.

 

From what I saw on MT you will need a fuel cut defensor. You should probably get larger injectors and some tuning device like an AFC or an EMS and dyno tune that biotch.

 

Stock you can run up to about 10 without worry. In your sig it says you've already got 2x720 injectors, which will give you some more room to play, but if you're paranoid, I'd just stay at 10.

 

MT = Microtech?

Ok doke. It just seems like a standalone ECU should be able to handle the fuel cut without the FCD, heh heh.

What kind of larger injectors? Like, 720s from the primaries as well, or what? I plan on going E6K in a few months, and just tuning everything on that with a dyno, hopefully eliminating the need for an AFC bandaid.

What about the boost controller? Oh yeah, and hows the cold air intake coming?

 

MT is my abreviation for MazdaTrix

I am still working on the intake. But I am having to deal with other things right now like college and work so its on a delayed schedule.

 

you think your worried about blowing your motor? i have a stock ecu controlling a bridgeport. needless to say i dont think i will take it back to college until i get the ecu fixed.

 

with the walbro pump and 720 secondarys you are probbly good to 12-14. my next worry would be the IC.

 

My 'vert boosts to ~8psi nearly every single day, and has done so without major problems for over two years. So you've been misinformed.

As long as you keep boost under 10psi you should be fine. That may be tricky with a full 3" exhaust, but I belive it can be done with the stock airbox in place. Whatever you do, keep the boost down and don't let it creep. Seriously consider porting the wastegate.
Even if you don't want to raise boost, an EBC will improve the car's performance by bringing boost up faster, improving mid-range torque considerably without stressing the fuel system or ECU. If you have it, leave it in and set it at your target boost.
You can use your EBC or use the E6K to run the boost control solenoid. Your choice.
You may want to keep the EBC, but the rest is junk.