Parastie

I just purchased a S5 Convertable yesterday from a junk yard. I was told that the engine would not start. I brought it home, put a new battery in it and, to my surprise, it started right up. Reved high (about 2500rpm), it tried to go down to normal idle and died. It did this several times. Checked the compression; front rotar has ZERO compression, as a matter of fact, if you put your finger over the spark plug hole it actually sucks! The rear rotar has a strong compression of around 90psi.

Does this sound like a dead engine to anyone else? I'm guessing that i'll have to have it rebuilt. I was wondering if it's possible to get to the front rotor without taking the engine completely apart. If you think i need to get it rebuilt, anyone have a good suggestion of where? Thanks!

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Yeah a full rebuild would be the best thing to do. Check out rotaryressurection he has good prices. There are many others like pineapple racing, Judge ITO, REted etc. but some of them take longer to do thing or what have you.

Santiago


PS- yeah that is a blown engine.

hanman

It's dead. Time for a complete rebuild.

3RotorRocket

Your in the Airforce you may not have the time to a rebuild am I right?Get yourself a rebuilt J-Spec if you don't have the time to complete a rebuild.Welcome to the Club and congrats on the Seven!

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the plugs? Is one wet. Mazda dealer said I had a dead rotor and needed a new engine (that was 45000 miles ago). I'd mess with it some. Sometimes mine has the same symptons as yours, especially when its hot. I guess mine is dying a slow death.

Jim D

Parastie

Both plugs on the front rotor are soaked with gas and oil, and yes I'm in the Air Force and do not have time to do the rebuild myself. I plan on saving up and trying rotaryressurection, from what i've read on this site he's the guy to try. Thank you for the help and suggestions!

SureShot

Yes it's probably dead - but just maybe the front rotor is flooded.

How log did it run before stalling? Just a few seconds?

My turbo had to run on the rear only for over a minute when I first started it, before the front rotor started to fire.
It took almost 10 minutes before it ran smooth.

4 weeks later that car made it's 1st pass down a drag strip.

Parastie

As long as i kept my foot on the gas and kept the RPMs above 1K it would run. In fact, i was able to put it into gear to move it. The moment i took my foot off the gas the engine would drop below 1k sputter for a second, then die.

Parastie

Okay, so rebuild it is. Now i need suggestions on where to get one. RR seems like the best place, but i have to ship them my engine first and since i'm in the airforce i don't have the time to rip the engine out and wait for it to come back. I need a place i can get a rebuilt engine first. Any suggestions?

apreludem

i know the compression test says its front rotor is dead....but those symptoms are of a vac. leak too right? could you have a vac. leak somewhere?
PS: correct me if im wrong. =)

Mephis

ok on the side of your engine, you have a ton of little vaccume lines, and a goldish colored disk/upside down bowl, that thing is called an acv, take it off and theres a little disk that fits into the motor, it most likely has came un seated, just use some greese and hold it inplace when you put it back togethor.

Parastie

I thought that NA models didn't have an ACV?

Bambam7

It very well could be flooded and/or stuck seals.
It's rare to have 0 compression on all three pulses unless there is a huge gash in the housing.
Try this first- pull the top plug and fill all three rotor chambers in the front rotor with ATF and let it soak for a day or two.
Try to start it again, it may well work.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Mazdatrix.....

BLACK ROCKET

Nice find!, and wish you lots of luck and patience and don't let me forget to say bundle of $$$.

And welcome.

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

GET STREETPORT =)

PureSephiroth

don't rebuild the engine yet. It sounds like its flooded. 90psi on the rear rotor is pretty low but that car could still have thousands of miles left in it.

Since you are hitting 0 psi for compression, my guess (like others have said) is that it is flooded. Try the ATF trick suggested and see if you can get the front rotor to fire at least. After that, measure the compression. If it still continues to stall after you get the front rotor firing, you probably have a vacuum leak. Try the ATF trick and let us know how it turns out. Your engine may still be good!

Parastie

The problem with doing the ATF is my car is currently 3 hours away! I purchased it where my dad lives but had no way of getting to where I am. I will try to get down there to give the ATF a shot, i tried putting the ATF into the bottom hole, but didn't let it sit very long. Any other suggestions?

Parastie

Just incase i do have to get the engine rebuilt (and since i leave on December 16 and won't be able to check the internet for 2 months or so), where's the best place (IYHO) to get a rebuilt engine from?

VroomVroomVroom

You could at least confirm that your apex seals are still there; with a powerful light and a small mirror, rotate the engine by hand, slowly, and see if all three are still there. You have to use the bottom plug, as the top ones fire through a tiny orifice. It's difficult, but possible. I could even use a small screwdriver to push on the seal to prove it wasnt stuck. For me, one seal was missing, so I knew it was rebuild time.
Do disconnect the battery before trying this!
My symptoms where exactly as you describe.
Good luck, Dave

Parastie

so umm...I'm bumping this in hopes to find more engine rebuild place. The car is in Texas, near the D/FW area if someone knows of shot there.

Mage

rotary ressurection in morristown tn. was just at his shop yesterday too bad he was not there :\ ah well best builder that I seen posted about.

Mage

NAFCRX7

doesnt a stock RX7 idle at 3000 rpms? or its just me?

Parastie

Mine would only idle for about 5 seconds tops before stalling out.

PureSephiroth

a 2nd generation RX-7 should idle at 3000 rpm until it begins to warm up. The idle should then drop to 750 rpm or thereabouts.

Get your engine rebuilt at Rotary Ressurection in TN. I have heard NOTHING but GOOD things about his work. Definately the cheapest and quite possibly the highest quality rebuilds available.