Widebody sport finally....
06-11-07, 07:10 PM
#1
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Location: Glendale, AZ
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Widebody sport finally....
After quite a while of on and off working on this pig its finally done (more or less)
Engine:
RE big Streetport and rebuilt with mostly factory parts
Atkins Apex seals
FD Stationary Gears
3 window bearings
Race Rotor bearings
3rd gen housings ported by Brian Cain
Throttle body modified & ported & polished by B. Cain
Everything external ceramic coated
Mazda Racing 6 rib under drive pullies
Turbonetics 62-1 BB .81 divided
SS divided manifold, reworked and modified
Spearco Intercooler
Racing Beat Oil pan baffle
magnecor 10mm race wires
custom oil/water catch cans
Koyo radiator
Electric fan 3300cfm
3" turbo back exhaust mandrel bent & entirely thermowrapped black
Wastegate piped back in before catback
N1 Duals
FD alternator polished
Fuel:
750/1600cc injectors
Marren Pulsation Damper
custom AN fuel rails
Aeromotive FPR
all AN fittings
Jegs replaceable Fuel filter
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Chassis:
Entirely Gutted
8 point autoweld chassis roll bar
Polyurethane foam filled subframe
Sparco Pro 2000 on rails (driver)
Sparco Sprint (passenger)
Pyrotect 5 pt camlock harness driver
Pyrotect 4 pt latch harness pass.
Custom 2 layer Carbon Dash
Sparco small Race wheel
Tripoint replica front and rear widebody molded
Odula modified front lip
S5 taillights
hatch key hole eliminated
antenna hole eliminated
Interior truck bed lined on traffic surfaces and painted
all primered and sanded to 400-600 grit for paint
Suspension:
full Energy Suspension urethane bushing kit
Ground control coilovers 450-325 springs
Tokico illuminas
Ground control camber/caster plates
mazdatrix sway bar adjustable end links
Racing beat sway bars
Mazdatrix rear steer eliminators
Drivetrain:
ACT SS clutch
SR motorsports 9 lb flywheel
Miata Short throw shifter
Delrin/UHMW engine mounts
Delrin/UHMW tranny mounts
Delrin/UHMW diff mounts
Delrin/UHMW rear subframe mounts
Solid front diff mount
Spinwerks 15x12" 2 piece Aluminum wheels (14lbs)
Goodyear Slicks 23.5x11x15 (14" section width)
Hawk HP+ pads
new stock rotors
SS Lines
ATE SuperBlue fluid
SS Clutch line
Electronics:
Haltech E6k
Greddy profec spec2 boost controller
Odyssey motorcycle battery lowered
Autometer 5" tach
Autometer voltmeter
Autometer boost
Autometer water temp
Autometer oil temp
Autometer oil pressure
factory speedo/fuel gauge
shift/overboost/overtemp light (for haltech)
Push button start
It still has 1 horn, turn signals, brake lights, and is setup for head lights so i could terrorize the streets once in a while. it has tags and plates still haha. I havent taken it to the track but in my subdivision it handles like a shifter kart.
full pics at http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/snyper10x/Car/
what ya think?
Engine:
RE big Streetport and rebuilt with mostly factory parts
Atkins Apex seals
FD Stationary Gears
3 window bearings
Race Rotor bearings
3rd gen housings ported by Brian Cain
Throttle body modified & ported & polished by B. Cain
Everything external ceramic coated
Mazda Racing 6 rib under drive pullies
Turbonetics 62-1 BB .81 divided
SS divided manifold, reworked and modified
Spearco Intercooler
Racing Beat Oil pan baffle
magnecor 10mm race wires
custom oil/water catch cans
Koyo radiator
Electric fan 3300cfm
3" turbo back exhaust mandrel bent & entirely thermowrapped black
Wastegate piped back in before catback
N1 Duals
FD alternator polished
Fuel:
750/1600cc injectors
Marren Pulsation Damper
custom AN fuel rails
Aeromotive FPR
all AN fittings
Jegs replaceable Fuel filter
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Chassis:
Entirely Gutted
8 point autoweld chassis roll bar
Polyurethane foam filled subframe
Sparco Pro 2000 on rails (driver)
Sparco Sprint (passenger)
Pyrotect 5 pt camlock harness driver
Pyrotect 4 pt latch harness pass.
Custom 2 layer Carbon Dash
Sparco small Race wheel
Tripoint replica front and rear widebody molded
Odula modified front lip
S5 taillights
hatch key hole eliminated
antenna hole eliminated
Interior truck bed lined on traffic surfaces and painted
all primered and sanded to 400-600 grit for paint
Suspension:
full Energy Suspension urethane bushing kit
Ground control coilovers 450-325 springs
Tokico illuminas
Ground control camber/caster plates
mazdatrix sway bar adjustable end links
Racing beat sway bars
Mazdatrix rear steer eliminators
Drivetrain:
ACT SS clutch
SR motorsports 9 lb flywheel
Miata Short throw shifter
Delrin/UHMW engine mounts
Delrin/UHMW tranny mounts
Delrin/UHMW diff mounts
Delrin/UHMW rear subframe mounts
Solid front diff mount
Spinwerks 15x12" 2 piece Aluminum wheels (14lbs)
Goodyear Slicks 23.5x11x15 (14" section width)
Hawk HP+ pads
new stock rotors
SS Lines
ATE SuperBlue fluid
SS Clutch line
Electronics:
Haltech E6k
Greddy profec spec2 boost controller
Odyssey motorcycle battery lowered
Autometer 5" tach
Autometer voltmeter
Autometer boost
Autometer water temp
Autometer oil temp
Autometer oil pressure
factory speedo/fuel gauge
shift/overboost/overtemp light (for haltech)
Push button start
It still has 1 horn, turn signals, brake lights, and is setup for head lights so i could terrorize the streets once in a while. it has tags and plates still haha. I havent taken it to the track but in my subdivision it handles like a shifter kart.
full pics at http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/snyper10x/Car/
what ya think?
06-11-07, 07:56 PM
#4
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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bumper needs to be changed to give it that "complete look." either swap over to a s5 front (looks like it would be a PITA) or further customize the current s4 bumper and custom finish of the lip some how. other than that looks nice from that shot- aggressive and functional looking. very nice
06-11-07, 08:09 PM
#5
I'm your turbo lover
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That thing looks like it chews up and spits out small children.... I LOVE IT! You've gotta get some dyno numbers and a curb weight posted! If my '90TII track project ends up half as nice as that, I'll be more than satisfied
06-11-07, 09:06 PM
#7
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It sits back in so it has shorter IC piping and It normally has ducting for the radiator too. I thought about putting trim pieces back on but decided it was just extra weight. still have to put the tail light center section in too.
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06-11-07, 10:31 PM
#13
The Cause of Death
Wow. Looks great.
Nice race car. Big rubbers on it.
I like what you did with the dash, too. Strictly a performance car.
What kind of #'s you hoping for? Seems like you should be in the 450 whp range, if not better, no?
James
Nice race car. Big rubbers on it.
I like what you did with the dash, too. Strictly a performance car.
What kind of #'s you hoping for? Seems like you should be in the 450 whp range, if not better, no?
James
06-12-07, 02:03 AM
#23
EXILETALON
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Aurora
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where did you get those replica fenders- how bad was the molding, did they fit evenly, or was it a chore to make it work?
I say put trim back on and paint it all together like the s5's come. I have a thing for little peices not being finished. Why sacrifice 3~4 lbs for "incomplete" look. and s5 bumper/ with that lip, just looks clean like it is though. Any color ideas- rich phantom black?
I say put trim back on and paint it all together like the s5's come. I have a thing for little peices not being finished. Why sacrifice 3~4 lbs for "incomplete" look. and s5 bumper/ with that lip, just looks clean like it is though. Any color ideas- rich phantom black?
06-12-07, 02:04 AM
#24
EXILETALON
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I have always been a fan of the Sheet metal folded Drag car dashes, with the simple drilled out slots for gauges- running all the way across, but yours is def. unique and practical- more/less
06-12-07, 06:17 PM
#25
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Fenders are around 3" wider i believe.
Raceon sold me the fenders, they may still sell them but they're like 6 week wait because they dont make them, someone else does. They fit really well in the rear and I used this special 3m adhesive that was $50/tube especially made for fiberglass to metal glueing. the fronts took some time to make fit well but they werent bad at all.
Yea i was originally looking at a dark charcoal metallic or a black metallic. Not sure yet though.
Raceon sold me the fenders, they may still sell them but they're like 6 week wait because they dont make them, someone else does. They fit really well in the rear and I used this special 3m adhesive that was $50/tube especially made for fiberglass to metal glueing. the fronts took some time to make fit well but they werent bad at all.
Yea i was originally looking at a dark charcoal metallic or a black metallic. Not sure yet though.