Well since my friend was able to overheat his NTK sensor on his Tech Edge 1.0 I don't want the same to happen to my LSU when I start using my TE 2B0. I'm going to be wiring up the 2B0 unit tonight/tommorow and the sensor comes in tommorrow. I'm going to a local machine shop to have two bungs installed in my true duals. Wankel7's NTK sensor is at the bottom of the RB 80mm DP and it overheated at cruise conditions(specially in loop mode) so that distance is still too hot so I play on placing them right before or right after the staggered pre-silencers that come on the MT Duals. I'm likely going to get under the car right now and measure the pipe length to the front and to the rear of the silencers. I think it would be optimal to have them just behind the silencers as those would take the brunt of the EGT load and spare the all valueable LSU sensor! The main problem I might run into is the back of the silencers being too far back and me not having enough cable with the supplied DIY O2 sensor cable. Perhaps also being TOO cold and over-working the WB sensor's heater? Any positive input would be awesome. I'll be back later with some more info on what I think, after seeing the lengths of exhaust tubes.

 

On one car I have the NTK sensor about a half foot from the left rear muffler. When emissions time comes each year I move it in front of the re-installed catalytic converter.

On the other car I have it about a foot from the turbo outlet.

I also have on the first car a bung about six inches from the rear end of the downpipe.

At one time or the other I've had it installed in the factory bung for months.

TechEdge recommends it be located at least at the end of the downpipe.

I've had no NTK sensor problems on either car.

I have had a problem with the version 1.0 and 1.5 needing 13.1vdc to work. I had/have a bum **** alternator that when the lights and airconditioner are on will drop the voltage to the version 1.0 and turn it off. Turn the a/c off and it will recover in a bit. Day time is no problem.

I think I've had a TechEdge(s) a bit longer than most folk on this forum.

Bun **** alternator will get fixed when I get around to it some year.

 

Mine's in the downpipe right near the final bend to where it straightens and goes to the back of the car.

 

Well the Bosch LSU 4.2/4.0 sensors are used on one of my friends VW Jetta's the 1.8T and it has them a few feet back so I figure its probably good to have them a ways back. I was just doing the lengths for the front/rear of each presilencer. I'll have them up in a bit i left the paper outside. :P


Rotor #1(F) 4' 4" Rotor #2(F) 2' 9.5"

Rotor #1(R) 6' 3" Rotor #2(R) 4' 8.5"



EDIT The lengths are rotors 1/2 and F-front and R-rear of the presilencer.


Do you guys think any of these is too far away? Just reading 6'3" makes me think "way too far man" but I don't know.

 

I have a PLX wideband (http://www.plxdevices.com/) and I have the bung right before the main cat (what people have as a pre-silencer) (well lets just call it a straight through cat...since I am in CA.... ) anyways it has the bosch sensor. I talked to the guys over there...

I was scared that the bosch sensor wouldn't handle the heat well, they told me otherwise and I decided to go with it. Then I have compared mine to one used at dyno's and it was very very close:

Their reading: 11.2
I am reading: 11.3-4

At least it is showing it as running leaner then off in the rich direction, I just couldn't justify dropping a ton of money on it since im a mostly near stock setup.

 

I've installed them on the collector of the RB header without troubles before, but being the road race header, things might be a little different.

Also, did you get your LD02 working? (Saw your emails, lol)

 

I tested the Voltage readout but its inconclusive(sp?) since their test result shows 5V and i'm getting some wacky ****. I'm too scared to melt perfectly good IC's by risking it and plugging it all in like wankel7 says to! I'm waiting on Mr. Gargano to reply but he seems to not want to come back to my thread, maybe he's sparing me the scolding for being a moron at electronics?

 

He usually tends to reply at some rather off-hours, he is down under! Though, from what I remember the LDO2's were really difficult to diagnose, so, Wankel7 might just have the right idea.

 

Yeah but its possible that I screwed the pooch with the volt reg. and that could potentially fry the CPU

 

The wide-band is supposed to have it's own, regulated heating element, so placement close to the engine isn't that critical?
The wide-band is like 4 or 5-wire, right?
Two of those wires are for the heater element.

If you're worried about getting it overheated, run it as far back as possible...before the muffler.
Due to reversion pulses, air could be sucked in on the mufflers tips, so placing it before the muffler should be okay.
Just keep in mind that "extra lag" from having it that far down the exhaust system...


-Ted

 

Is there any way to calculate or estimate(accuratly) the amount of lag? Because most people tune at the dyno and they use a tip sniffer no? I would figure they have it worked out.

 

the innovative LM-1 wide band forum has some really good info.

you could make a heat sink for the sensor as per their documentation.

you could also but thier heat sink bung which i have in mine which is about 2in away from the turbo.

 

Not really...it's kinda subjective.
It's not like I can tell you that your lag is like 0.345463 seconds! :P


Yeah, this is because it can be used as a universal application.
If you're using the typical 18mm x 1.5 thread sensor, then you need to install a bung.
This was how one of the early DynoJet shops used to do it - offer to weld in a bung for wide-band use.


-Ted

 

Go to the support site for TECHEDGE here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/oz-diy-wb/ and either ask or type in a search for LOCATION of the NTK sensor, or suggested location on turbo engines.