2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Why why why!?

Old Sep 28, 2006 | 07:27 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 13b4me
We had to remove my girlfriend's engine in her Olds Aurora to change the AC compressor and idler pulley...
I hate those damn cars.
Any car with anything similar to the Northstar engine should burn.
Who the hell makes a front wheel drive V-8 : /
TO change the oil pan on the engine you have to drop the subframe about an inch to get the exhaust out so you can unbolten 4 bolts behind it.
Even to take the engine out, the easiest way was to drop the whole subframe with the tranny and engine since the starter is in the middle under the intake manifold.

I mean you can also pull the engine out from the top but that will take longer.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:53 AM
  #27  
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Get a 1/4" 10mm swivel socket... and a small extension. And jack the motor up a few inches.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:58 AM
  #28  
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My old 95 Prelude is a PITA to work on. RX7 is nothing
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by drago86
FC's are the easiest car Ive ever worked on,..

The FC and my last car, a 2001 AWD Subaru Impreza 2.5RS are the easiest cars I have ever worked on.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:04 AM
  #30  
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my dad and i replaced the alternator on out lumina when we had it.. it had the bigger 3.4l v6 crammed in there. to change the spark pugs you had to remove the upper motor mounts and hook a come along to the motor and anouther vehicle and rotate the motor like 3 inches so you could bearly fit the socket in to the holes. but the alternator you ahd to completely remove all of hte suspenson on the pass side and one of my most favorite ones was use a 6' yes 70" extension from one side of the car all the way across to get one of the alternator bolts.. was not fun.. will never own one..
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:08 AM
  #31  
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Maybe i don't know what I'm doing, I've done everything i swear, If i gotta take it off the subframe which I do not plan on doing, sounds too complicated..... but I raised it a couple of inches and i still can't get enough room to even turn the damn thing, this one bolt is annoying the **** out of me, and for not having any money right now I have to use the tools i have........
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:16 AM
  #32  
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Try changing the plugs in one of those old hoover shaped GM vans with a carb in it. I probably have scars still from the damn windshield wipers reaching back in that engine bay.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #33  
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Then start using some ingenuity.

The oil pan *can* be swapped while the motor's in the car (with the engine raised since a motor mount has to come off...duh hehe) If you don't have enough room for a socket and universal/swivel adaptor, nor the money for a swivel socket, what a about a regular socket with vice grips attached to it? (don't laugh you ghetto haters - lol)

Many people have taken them off....BTW, a swivel socket like mentioned (and really, required) is NOT very expensive. A cheap bar of 8mm through 17mm swivel sockets is about $30 at the most. If you don't have any extra cash laying around for a couple useful tools - you're going to hate this car in a year
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #34  
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So, you can't afford a tool or two..but you can afford to pay Pineapple Racing $50-60 an hour to do it? They'll probably charge you for 2-3 hours, I would think.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #35  
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If someone brought an oil pan to me to be removed and reinstalled, I'd charge them a hell of a lot more then $50 an hour since it's my least favourite job in the world (besides bleeding the brakes).

A swivel socked looks exactly as it sounds. It's a socket (10MM in this case) on a universal joint that swivels. 1/4" drive is the best here since it's compact, and you should be able to buy a single 10MM swivel for $5 or so. It will make this job go a LOT easier.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 01:32 PM
  #36  
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Yeah i looked at it, well i don't need to take it to the shop, I finally got it off, i got in there with the same tool but a different way! it was quite interesting, also to come to find out that there was barely any rtv sealant placed on the pan and no oil pan gasket, thank you guys! very much for the help, and i might be back on the same subject but I doubt i will be, cuz when you remove something, to install it youjust do the exact reverse of what you did, but thanks guys!

Hasan
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #37  
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When you reinstall it, use both a gasket and a layer of sealant on each side of the gasket. Make sure the engine mating surface is perfectly clean and it won't leak.

The front bolts should be started and threaded in as far as you can by hand. If you try to use a socket, they WILL crossthread.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #38  
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ok one more question how do you tell if its a 1/16th bead or a 1/4th bead?
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #39  
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to clean it off can i use gojo? haha, jus kidding but yeah what do i use to clean it!? Soap and water?
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #40  
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Well, a 1/4" bead would measure 1/4" across. 1/16" is very tiny and about 1/16" accross...

To clean it, use brake cleaner.
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