This is what I found for the primary injectors, three connectors. Is this right or signs of rigging? As of now the injectors either aren't hooked up right or the injectors themselves are clogged, any way of telling while the intake manifold is off?

 

Yeah. One is probably the one to the water thermo sensor. The injector wires have colors. The colors are designated in the wiring diagram of the FSM. The series four FSM, online and free, has the wiring diagrams for your car.

 

Thanks, I must have read over that in the FSM, I knew one was connected to the BACV.

I checked the EGI main fuses on the driver side pillar.
I checked all interior fuses
I checked all grounds
If all of these are fine then is it the injectors? Running out of ideas.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1160179490

The above is from a another thread. When you open it, do you see the wire colors or is the jpg too small to view?

 

Yes I can read it, Ill check the wire colors, but I think they are alirght, just two wires seemed bad but after testing voltage they are the similar to the others.

Quick update, I tested voltage on all injectors and found that they all have 0V on one wire and a range from .01-.08 V on the other wire. What does this mean? Or does this mean anything at all?

 

I would have your injectors cleaned if I were you. they check voltages and stuff like that too. not sure y theres bad readings from the wires... check your resistor pack?

 

If the key was to ON or better, one wire at each connector should have had 12vdc. So zero ain't good.

The BrY, BrR, BrW and Br all should have 12vdc coming from the solenoid resistor package shown in that jpg I attached. It in turn gets fed from the MAIN RELAY which in turn gets fed from one of the EGI fuses, which in turn get fed from the MAIN FUSE (I think).

Solenoid resistor is below the afm/filter assy. Is aluminum covered and about five inches long with a large round plug on it with five wires. ONE of those wires is the 12vdc feed. I'd check the ENGINE fuse in the interior first then the EGI fuse and Main fuse next.

The other wires on the injectors should be left alone. They go to the ECU and are the grounding wires for each injector. The grounding wire gets a gnd pulse on it when the ECU is opening/closing the injectors. That/those wires is not any part of your problem.

The above is for a series four car, not a series five. I asked about the jpg because sometimes I post a jpg and it's itty bitty small and useless to the viewer.

 

Oh! Your the same guy that had voltage on three of the four injectors. And now you have none. Must of popped the EGI fuse or didn't have the key to On or better.

 

true, however I checked the voltage for the injectors from the ecu and compared the readings to the FSM, then today took the intake off and check voltage at the injectors with key turned on, and got those readings.

So far the next possible spot is the Solenoid resistor, Ill see if its working, Again thank you so much for the tips. After this I will know alot more about the fuel system on one of these.

 

Ok just to double check if I checked the voltage on the injectors correctly
I unplugged the injector connector and turned the key to ON and measured voltage to the two connector pins inside the connector, and I did the same for the Solenoid resistor.

Also for the four bottom pins on the solenoid resistor pack I got .01 V and the top single pin I got 10-8.5V at first then after holding the positive lead of the voltmeter to the pin the reading gradually decreased to .01V

Also does .01V mean 0Voltage or does it matter?

 

No, I think that was me. And it was because I had gotten the rear primary confused with the water thermo sensor.
If you look at the connectors, they are rectangular with a slot on one side. In two of them the slow is in the middle. These are the injectors. On the other the slot is offset, which is the sensor. Unfortunately my connectors were shattered and the wires were all completely brown... Just test for voltage (or continuity if you have a car with the resistor pack) to be sure.

Edit: just saw your post: there shouldn't be voltage on any wire of the resistor pack. The top single is a ground, and the others aren't connected to anything when the pack is unplugged. How it works is the ground signal is sent though the top pin through the resistor pack and is distributed to the other 4 pins, each going to an injector. The other pin on the injector has 12V supplied to it normally, with a lower pulse signaling when the injector should pulse open.

So the voltages on the resistor pack are correct. I think the way you are testing the injector pins might be wrong, though. You need to test each pin seperatly to ground. So go from one pin to ground, then test from the other pin to ground. One should have 12V, the other should slowly go down to 0. As far as I can tell, voltage gets stored in the resistor pack and slowly discharges.

To test if they are getting the signal correctly, plug the injector plugs into the injectors (make sure the resistor pack is plugged in also!). Now pull out the CAS. With the ignition in the ON position, spin the CAS around. You should hear the injectors clicking. If not, they are not getting the right signal.

 

So if the voltage reading slowly drops on the solenoid resistor is this normal?

I believe I did the voltage test how you described. I grounded the black test lead and the positive test lead touches the pin on the injector cable. Correct me if im wrong on that.

Also I checked the EGI main fuse and i know this might sound stupid but other than looking at the fuse through its little plastic window is there any other way to diagnose if something is not right? Since Im not getting power somehow to the injectors.

I looked through the FSM and can't find anymore information on where would be the next place to check the system.