saabguy, what exactly is this aluminum splitter you are talking about? we replaced my turbo with a low-mileage one so that could be a vacuum leak that i have not found. could you post a picture or something?

 

The "splitting pipe" as I mentioned before runs from the top of the turbo's compressor to just before the first 90 degree bent hose connecting to the intercooler. Its about 6-8 inches tall and about 2 inches in diameter. Theres a 3/4 inch intake hose attached to this "splitting" pipe and that 3/4 inch hose which runs to the idle control valve is prone to cracking.

You just redid the turbo?? Make sure you have all the vac lines going to the right place.

On a hunch, make sure you connected the small intake hoses to the back of your intercooler.

 

ok i'll check it out.

 

Well from my understanding is, the rotors turn at 1/3 of the eccentric shaft speed so at say 900 rpm, the rotors are only turning 300 rpm. The air/fuel mixture is very hard to control at only 300rpm. Rotaries are meant to rev not sit around at stoplights!

 

damn thermowax

 

what is that thermowax **** anyways? i always hear about people removing it. what does it do and how owuld i benefit from removing it?

 

it's part of the mechanical side of the idle control mechanism.

 

"it's part of the mechanical side of the idle control mechanism."


more info please

 

part of the idle control is purely mechanical (thermowax) and is beyond the ecu's control. how much more info do you need?

 

i just never heard of it before ( i also never had and idle prob. untill now ) and searching dosen't help much when there r a million threads to search

 

how do we remove this "thermowax" contraption?

 

The thermowax is what causes the 1500 RPM hot idle. It keeps the throttle open very slightly. Sometimes it sticks, thus causing idle weirdness. ReTEDs site has info on removal: http://www.fc3s-pro.com or something....

 

hey aaron cake i downloaded your videos. how 'bout that canadian accent!

 

and the computer just assumes the thermowax setup is working properly. so when any part of the system is misadjusted, all hell breaks loose.

Mazda should have just gone with a completely electronic control of idle speed. GM/Ford/Chrysler had been doing it for a long while at that point so there's no reason why it COULDN'T be done other than stubbornness.

 

Does this make sense - changed the O2 sensor on my s5 n/a and the idle became a lot smoother and 100 RPM's faster. It had been constantly fluctuating between 500 to 600 RPM. With the new O2 sensor, it is steady at 600 RPM's. Don't know what else could have changed - maybe new gas or something!

 

Somewhere on here I had a small thread on rough idle stuff. Anyway, after checking to see if anything had actually failed (it was a really rough idle) I put a bottle of 'Techron' (fuel injection cleaner made by Amoco under the Chevron name) and filled up. I drove about 30 miles on the highway and never got beyond 4th (kept the rpm's up). The car runs real sweet now. Sometimes I can't even tell that it is running. And this is with plugs that were pretty mucky.
It's not the cheapest, but it is the best. A couple of the high-end German auto makers sell it under their own names.

 

Will the following two items cause it not to idle correctly?

1> One of the secondary fuel Injectors are leaking

2> The BACV valve needs cleaning..

thanks

 

i added more ground points and straps and that solved the porblem. once i got the pro-pak was installed, it was butter.