So it seems like I just had a clutch put in due to a bad throwout bearing and then I stop at a light and, just like last time, it won't go in gear at all. I turn off the engine and push it somewhere safe. Then just for kicks I put it in gear, push down the clutch petal and try to start again (something that didn't work last time). It makes a bit of noise as I release the clutch petal and I'm able to get it moving. I don't dare change from 1st. Then I hit a red light and push the clutch petal and hit the brakes. It's fine for a few seconds, then progressively gets worse as it makes all kinds of noise and stalls. I start it again and it manages to idle with the clutch stayed down. I get it in gear just fine but this time it makes even more noise and then I get home.

That was an OEM clutch. The previous owner claimed he put in a Rotary Performance clutch 25,000 miles or so before that, but who knows. So wtf is going on, and should I bring it back to the same mechanic or just find someone more reputable and get it over with? Is there any way I'm driving that could possibly be doing this? I mean I've seen a friend shift more aggressively and his car has over 30k on it. Anyway please help soon, I think I'll be getting it towed tomorrow morning.

 

OEM pressure plate as well?

 

It makes noises when you have the clutch pedal pushed in?

 

A couple times ya, a couple times it didn't, but did while lifting it and putting it into gear, then once in gear no noises. The couple times it made noises with the clutch was pushed in it acted like partially in gear, lunging a little or eventually stalling one of the times.

AFAIK the mechanic got an OEM clutch kit, but I dunno. What are all the components? Just throwout bearing and pressure plate? He claimed he wanted to do aftermarket for ~$280 in parts, I wanted OEM, then he said oh OEM parts were only ~$320.

The noise is like something is grating or maybe bouncing around inside there. It acted like it's partially in gear whenever it made the noise, trying to move forward, idle lowering or one time stalling when braking. When the problem started I was in neutral at a light and couldn't get into any gear. I haven't attempted to change from 1st gear since the problem. It got into 1st in the first place by doing so while the car was off. Luckily I was only a block from home.

 

It could be the Pilot bearing and not the clutch.

 

As it was last time, and IIRC both were replaced. So why again?

 

Check the clutch hydraulics also. Could be a bad master or slave cylinder causing it to grind.

 

A pilot bearing is not a throwout bearing. They're two different things.

 

So you think maybe he didn't replace the pilot bearing while it was open? Doesn't that mean he's a deuche? I mean how expensive is it? Doesn't someone have to open up the clutch all over again to get to it? Will he be liable to fix the mess. Will he be able to charge me full price for another job? Please excuse my minimal understanding of clutches.

 

Usually it's the case that if you are replacing the clutch you replace the pilot bearing as well. While it may not be completely necessary to do so, its common practice to go ahead and replace it seeing as it is included in most clutch kits you buy. It could be that he forgot to grease the bearing as well, who knows. You wont find anything out until the transmission is dropped.

Yes, you have to drop the transmission and pull the clutch to get the bearing out. He probably wont be liable to fix it per say, seeing as it had lasted 15k at least. But if you approach the guy in a civil manner and explain to him what happened he may be willing to cut you slack on the price.

Or, you can get a little crazy and try to do it yourself; its not that hard; but having a friend there to help you free the transmission, lower and raise it into place is helpful.

 

I would look for the obvious cheaper stuff like the slave or master and make sure the fluids are fine before I would tear into a clutch replacement.
If the throwout bearing is not making noise than I would eliminate that problem and go from there.
I would also check the level of the tranny fluid and maybe replace it if you don't know how old it is. Seems Royal Purple lubes on this site is popular.
Also 15k is not to much on a new clutch depending on how much you banged on it. I have heard of clutches going bad at 1k or less when drifting and doing burnouts at every stop light.

 

Clutch fluid level fine. Clutch slave and master cylinders recently replaced. I check the tranny fluid level every 15k and replace every 30k. Last time it was "replace". Can low tranny fluid make it so I can't put the shifter into gear while the engine is running? Let me press and release the clutch if the shifter is already in gear but throw a fit and not always fully disengage? I suppose I could put the car on jack stands and check the level before I call a tow if it's a possibility.

 

A bad master/slave would cause you to press the pedal but not press on the clutch. However it wouldn't explain the grinding noises when you press the clutch in. Eventually you will blow up the pilot bearing and will not be able to use the clutch at all.

Sadly the pilot bearing + seal is only like...$10. But you have to drop the trans and take off the clutch to get to it.

 

Since the clutch was "recently" replaced do you think the mechanic will/should change everything or just the pilot bearing? I assume I'm looking at $300 in labor, not including parts, either way?

 

Unless your the absolute worst manual driver I have ever heard about, I would doubt that your clutch would need to be replaced at 15k miles. There's no reason to replace it unless its worn out. He should just do the pilot bearing and seal. You may as well order the bearing and seal from Mazdatrix and just supply them to him.

 

Its probably pilot bearing.

the part itself is dirt cheap, but its important.

You might want to make sure he has the right puller to pull the bearing out. Its ultra small and a lot of pullers will not fit. Ask me how I know

Got myself the Mazda official tool, its expensive, but "bang bang bang" , 3 hits, and the thing came out. not even a minute.

 

Thanks a bunch, ordered pilot bearing + seal. On the off chance it's not the cause I figure it's cheap and small enough to store for later. Ya my last mechanic said something about being frustrated until he got some special tool, which is understandable. Planning on going to a rotary specialist this time.

 

another one for pilot bearing; they can be damaged when re-mating the transmission to the engine too, so even if it was replaced, if the installer got lazy and just dragged the engine & trans together with the mounting bolts, the pilot bearing could have (and most likely was) damaged.

i had mine fail in the middle of a drive from NJ to MI, and it wouldn't go into gear when the engine was stopped. It was really frozen though; enough so that with the clutch in, the starter would drag the car forward if it was in gear. Fortunately I was able to use this to get me the last 300 miles home, with some rev-matched shifting and creative avoidance of stopping

 

So the good shop told me to check the old shop for a warranty. The lady on the phone who barely speaks English wouldn't answer any questions about a warranty and kept asking over and over again when I would be towing my car there. The tow is covered by my insurance, but I dunno if they'd cover another tow to another shop if I get there and then they say "Nope, not covered". Ugh. I'm gonna call again later.