Why are the after market oil cooler lines -10AN
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From: Avon Lake
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well A) you spent a ton of time engineering stuff that worked in the first place and
B) you don't know that -8 DOES work.
C) you could have been playing with headers or suspension or something that makes the car faster.
i don't think its a bad thing to experiment though, as long as we learn something.
B) you don't know that -8 DOES work.
C) you could have been playing with headers or suspension or something that makes the car faster.
i don't think its a bad thing to experiment though, as long as we learn something.
Thread Starter
Living on the North Coast
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Avon Lake
well A) you spent a ton of time engineering stuff that worked in the first place and
B) you don't know that -8 DOES work.
C) you could have been playing with headers or suspension or something that makes the car faster.
i don't think its a bad thing to experiment though, as long as we learn something.
B) you don't know that -8 DOES work.
C) you could have been playing with headers or suspension or something that makes the car faster.
i don't think its a bad thing to experiment though, as long as we learn something.
A) I am a degreed engineer that has work in the automotive performance industry for 28 years. I am making improvements all the systems on the car as well as looking at the aftermarket performance parts. Sorry, but these are obvious questions to me.
B) The ID of the -8 AN fitting are the same as the ID of the factory fittings. The ID of the factory hard tubular sections of these cooler lines are smaller than the ID of the -8 AN fittings and hose. The swept -8 AN fittings offer less flow restriction than the factory banjo fittings. Based on those facts, I know the -8 AN lines that I made will have a higher flow capacity with less restriction than the factory lines.
C) I have already done countless upgrades to all the system in the car to make it a better on the track as well as the street. Plus I have more parts out in the garage that still need to be installed. Thanks for your concern
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well...
A) i am a degreed engineer that has work in the automotive performance industry for 28 years. I am making improvements all the systems on the car as well as looking at the aftermarket performance parts. Sorry, but these are obvious questions to me.
B) the id of the -8 an fitting are the same as the id of the factory fittings. The id of the factory hard tubular sections of these cooler lines are smaller than the id of the -8 an fittings and hose. The swept -8 an fittings offer less flow restriction than the factory banjo fittings. Based on those facts, i know the -8 an lines that i made will have a higher flow capacity with less restriction than the factory lines.
C) i have already done countless upgrades to all the system in the car to make it a better on the track as well as the street. Plus i have more parts out in the garage that still need to be installed. Thanks for your concern
A) i am a degreed engineer that has work in the automotive performance industry for 28 years. I am making improvements all the systems on the car as well as looking at the aftermarket performance parts. Sorry, but these are obvious questions to me.
B) the id of the -8 an fitting are the same as the id of the factory fittings. The id of the factory hard tubular sections of these cooler lines are smaller than the id of the -8 an fittings and hose. The swept -8 an fittings offer less flow restriction than the factory banjo fittings. Based on those facts, i know the -8 an lines that i made will have a higher flow capacity with less restriction than the factory lines.
C) i have already done countless upgrades to all the system in the car to make it a better on the track as well as the street. Plus i have more parts out in the garage that still need to be installed. Thanks for your concern
You don't calculate a psi pressure drop, you calculate in/wg (inches of water column) per given length of friction over the entire system. Find your output needs at the various points along the length of the system, using some handy-dandy math you find your needed pump output.
Now, seeing as we have a standard pump (who knows the output?) and we know approximately the location of the oil jets along the system (if you were to trace it), (do you know the required pressures at each oil jet on the E-shaft?) you can then determine was is the maximum friction your system can tolerate before your pump cavitates and fries your motor. Now that you know the maximum friction, you can start figuring out the specs of each individual piece and building your theoretical system.
I think you are an "automotive engineer" like I was when I was a teenager. I built engines from scratch, I knew (know) my way around fabricating brackets and generic parts that aren't made otherwise ... but an "Engineer", that's a bit of a stretch given the holes of information in your posts.
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From: Avon Lake
I call bullshit due to the following:
You don't calculate a psi pressure drop, you calculate in/wg (inches of water column) per given length of friction over the entire system. Find your output needs at the various points along the length of the system, using some handy-dandy math you find your needed pump output.
Now, seeing as we have a standard pump (who knows the output?) and we know approximately the location of the oil jets along the system (if you were to trace it), (do you know the required pressures at each oil jet on the E-shaft?) you can then determine was is the maximum friction your system can tolerate before your pump cavitates and fries your motor. Now that you know the maximum friction, you can start figuring out the specs of each individual piece and building your theoretical system.
I think you are an "automotive engineer" like I was when I was a teenager. I built engines from scratch, I knew (know) my way around fabricating brackets and generic parts that aren't made otherwise ... but an "Engineer", that's a bit of a stretch given the holes of information in your posts.
You don't calculate a psi pressure drop, you calculate in/wg (inches of water column) per given length of friction over the entire system. Find your output needs at the various points along the length of the system, using some handy-dandy math you find your needed pump output.
Now, seeing as we have a standard pump (who knows the output?) and we know approximately the location of the oil jets along the system (if you were to trace it), (do you know the required pressures at each oil jet on the E-shaft?) you can then determine was is the maximum friction your system can tolerate before your pump cavitates and fries your motor. Now that you know the maximum friction, you can start figuring out the specs of each individual piece and building your theoretical system.
I think you are an "automotive engineer" like I was when I was a teenager. I built engines from scratch, I knew (know) my way around fabricating brackets and generic parts that aren't made otherwise ... but an "Engineer", that's a bit of a stretch given the holes of information in your posts.
I was trying to make this as simple and practical as I could. What I am not going to do is to give a lecture on fluid dynamics. Don't believe me about the noted pressure drop? Then why don't you look up the standard K factors used for pressure drop calculations and compare the values assigned to different design fittings. Or better yet, why don't you just use some pipe flow simulation software to answer the question. Or you can do a simple practical flow bench test on a couple different hoses and prove it to yourself. What these will all show you is the plain and simple truth that you should avoid the use of hard forged 90 degree fittings if at all possible when you are trying to minimize pressure drops in your system. On a practical application note, based on the line sizes, flow rates and pressures seen with typical automotive oiling systems, each hard forged 90 degree fitting used in an oil cooler circuit will result in a about 2 PSI drop.
Well you would be wrong.
I was trying to make this as simple and practical as I could. What I am not going to do is to give a lecture on fluid dynamics. Don't believe me about the noted pressure drop? Then why don't you look up the standard K factors used for pressure drop calculations and compare the values assigned to different design fittings. Or better yet, why don't you just use some pipe flow simulation software to answer the question. Or you can do a simple practical flow bench test on a couple different hoses and prove it to yourself. What these will all show you is the plain and simple truth that you should avoid the use of hard forged 90 degree fittings if at all possible when you are trying to minimize pressure drops in your system. On a practical application note, based on the line sizes, flow rates and pressures seen with typical automotive oiling systems, each hard forged 90 degree fitting used in an oil cooler circuit will result in a about 2 PSI drop.
I was trying to make this as simple and practical as I could. What I am not going to do is to give a lecture on fluid dynamics. Don't believe me about the noted pressure drop? Then why don't you look up the standard K factors used for pressure drop calculations and compare the values assigned to different design fittings. Or better yet, why don't you just use some pipe flow simulation software to answer the question. Or you can do a simple practical flow bench test on a couple different hoses and prove it to yourself. What these will all show you is the plain and simple truth that you should avoid the use of hard forged 90 degree fittings if at all possible when you are trying to minimize pressure drops in your system. On a practical application note, based on the line sizes, flow rates and pressures seen with typical automotive oiling systems, each hard forged 90 degree fitting used in an oil cooler circuit will result in a about 2 PSI drop.
Your armchair engineering is flawed.
This thread is completely useless. You're trying to improve something that needs no improvement. Even then by improving it, you're gaining nothing. Useless.
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Living on the North Coast
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From: Avon Lake
My father had a saying for people like you, "you're so smart, you're stupid" - translation: you have no common sense. By the way has anyone ever told you that you remind them of Sheldon Cooper? Anyways, it sounds like you should stop wasting your time here on the this forum and you should be using that time to concentrate on those paying customer's jobs.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Maybe to you it is useless, but its not me. Then again useless seems to be sort of like trying to have a normal discussion with you. I know who and what I am, and I will stand behind my what I have said.
My father had a saying for people like you, "you're so smart, you're stupid" - translation: you have no common sense. By the way has anyone ever told you that you remind them of Sheldon Cooper? Anyways, it sounds like you should stop wasting your time here on the this forum and you should be using that time to concentrate on those paying customer's jobs.
My father had a saying for people like you, "you're so smart, you're stupid" - translation: you have no common sense. By the way has anyone ever told you that you remind them of Sheldon Cooper? Anyways, it sounds like you should stop wasting your time here on the this forum and you should be using that time to concentrate on those paying customer's jobs.
How would you know if I'm charging my customers for the time I'm on here? You don't. Perhaps your father was talking about you, kiddo.
LOL!
Not saying I am or am not the pot or kettle, just lol'ing.
Last edited by Jet-Lee; Apr 28, 2013 at 04:36 PM.
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