But will it be able to pass inspection? Will it be legal?

 

there are double-projector kits for the Miata... has anyone used or modified them to run on an FC?

like these -


they are $440 from here - http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=36473

 

probably pass inspection just fine, I dont know about being legal, but considering you can reinstall the old ones in less than ten minutes then I dont see much fo a problem there if it ever arises. The way I see it it will be a kit with no cutting, completely sleek, the lights will not sit below the bumper line like you are talking about with the 90 mm or even 55s. Either way there arent many options out there and the options that exist are ugly and cost way too much, so i think for those willing to use it "off road" only at their own risk is not that big of an issue. When I do my fulll on kit for the bumper then i will worry about getting street legal headlamps and all. I am willing to sell my prototype here in a week or so for 350 if anyone wants it once I make a mold and all from it. I made the housing structure from balsa wood after pulling the whole assembly out and making the fitting for the structure and all. I made the opposite side from foam backed paperboard I got from wal mart (comes in huge sheets and costs only two dollars and cuts very nicely with a razorblade). Now all i have to do is make sure it sits a certain amount underneath the hoodline and then lay fiberglass mat over it (the autozone stuff since I still have no access to the goodstuff yet) and then from there I am going to bondo them up, get the nice and smooth, buy the lexan, paint the edges of the lexan black where it mounts and use a urethane sealant to seal them up without nasty screws.

This will finish it for the prototype and I have to make some mounting brackets and all but that should do it, and of course the same process applies to any I make after that, just pull it rom the mold, attach said lights, lexan and then I am done and I also plan on making the housing in CF for a little extra which I think will be adbass. To me this is a hell of a lot easier and much less time consuming then making a huge hood and in my financial sitiation this is an easy undertaking without a whole lot of fiberglass supply and overhead that I dont have at the moment. Anyhow this whole set up I am looking to sell for around 425.

This would also make very good setup for those willing to make a ram air intake for the fc. You can now cut thru that support behind the headlights and run piping thru and put the intake directly behind the ftp lense which you can remove at will and will get a true ram air setup.

 

I definitely like these:



If anyone has installed these on a seven, Id be interested in how they did it...

 

A couple propblems I see you having...

#1...lights. You want something that will not drag below the bumper line, and not be above the hood line, without cutting anything. this doesn't even leave quality fog-lights as an option for headlamps. Keep in mind that anything you find powered by an H3 will NOT be safe to use on the road. Must use an H1/H7 combination. You will also have to include the propper wiring harnesses and relays with instructions to adapt the stock RX-7 harness to your lights.

#2...attaching the lexan cover. It's hard to do securely. How do you plan to do it? (if you say "just glue it down" you better lookmfor alterative method)

 

i will be using the same bulbs that are stock and modifying the lamp with these bulbs. As for the adhesive it is the same stuff they use for the windsheilds. If it is good enough to mount a windshield I am sure it will be safe enough for a small lexan cover.

 

Yeah I setup a friends vert like that earlier this year then he had 2 front end crashes so we are going to try and set it up again. All you need is to pull out your stock assembly. Get a piece of flat fiber glass, plywood, or anything else. Then form it to fit the where the stock light goes and once you fab it up cut 2 holes and add 2 driving light from pepboys. First set was good but the light move around 2 much for me. You will always have to adjust the beams up and down because they move when you hit bumps and it look like you are flashing your high beams. This will take you actually 2 hrs. Get off your *** and stop wishing for someone to build something for you.

 

The stock units are sealed beams. If you used a bulb that would fit the stock sockets it would be an H4 or 9003. These are dual filament bulbs and will be VERY hard to utilize in a projector. I've tried it for *****. It doesn't work.

A projector is built around a specific bulb to create a specific beam. You CAN'T modify existing housings to fit different styles of bulbs because the effects of the lighting will be altered, sometimes drastically, almost always unsafe.

This is why you need to find a H1/H7 combination. These, though mostly found in foglights any more, are more than adequate at producing road-going light...that's why most cars that use projector assemblies stock use them, and why cars like the most recent Honda Prelude use them in open reflector composite housings.

GT racing makes kits for the Porsche 944 and put their housings together under that same impression. It doesn't work. There needs to be a solid anchor in there to prevent accidents. That glue also makes the lenses hard to replace, and you'll need to be able to fab up replacement lenses. Lexan scratches very easily, and is vulnerable to UV light...they'll need to be replaced almost yearly, at least.


also...


YEah...that description amkes em want to run to pep-boys RIGHT NOW.......

 

im not modifying the housing itself really or how it works, just pretty much replacing the bulb with an h4 like you said. And if need be I could use screws instead of urethane if that were better.

 

That's what I'm saying...you can't do that. You can't just stick another type of bulb in there. It doens't work that way. The housings are designed around a specific bulb with specific light qualities. You can't alter one part without altering the entire machine. You need to use the bulb that the module is designed around.

And, like I said, the H4 is a dual filament bulb. It will plug directly into the harness but what about the other light? You're over-simplifying it...which can be bad when you take into consideration that people's lives will depend on your product.

 

I'll buy a set from the first guy w'pics of a good working prototype preferably DOT approved.

Good luck to both of you.

 

so basically what you are saying is that less light will be produced than the light the thing originally came with? Remember this thing is only for off road use. Use at own risk. Right now I am just making the thing for tittles and giggles, but the better I can make it the better it would be. So you recommend and H1/h7 bulb?

 

I STRONGLY recommend the bulb that the housings came with, which will most likely be H1's and H7's for quality lights. Using a different style of bulb than the design calls for will alter the beam negatively.

I just got my measurements from a dual projector setup from a '93 Honda Civic. The modules are roughly 50mm in diameter and use an H1 for the high beam, an H7 for the actual projector (low beam). There are decent lights except for their aim in the stock housing...so I'm going to use a chop saw and carve out the modules and make my own brakets to aim and mount them (kinna like what you see attached to hella and valeo modules). But it'll be a while before I apply these to anything...the Porsche project is the prioraty right now.


Do not use a housing designed around an H3 bulb, the patterns are far too wide and easily dispersed in any inclement weather.