Yo,


I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Recaro Speed seat and either a Schroth Rallye 4 or Profi II-FE 4 point harness.







I know (or think I do) that for the back mounting points you can use the old 2 + 2 lap belt threaded holes in the chassis. Now, I just realised that with the stupid mouse belts there are no "traditional" lap mounting points for the Schroth.

Or is there? Are there threaded holes in the chassis at the bottom of the B pillar and on the right side of the tranny tunnel from the S4 days?

Any info would be appreciated!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "I searched already!"

 

I think for the lap belts you can just remove the factory seat belt and attach it to the same spot. So unbolt the factory belt from the bottom and remove the clip and use those bolt holes. And yes in the back use the 2+2 holes that are already there.

 

dont buy a 4pt harness, they are very dangerous as they tend to ride up as you tighten them, get a 5 or 6 pt which will keep the strap around your waist so you dont lacerate your internal orgains (liver, ect...)! you should just stick with your stokc 3pt which will stay down.

P.S. using a harness without a full cage is just plain stupid, you cant duck if you flip. also, using a cage without a helmet is also asking for death. even with the foam, it will still give you blunt force trama! good luck

 

its too much of a pain, if u had a rollbar in the car u could mount it on there!! beside it might be cool and all but when i get my sparco seats im still using the stock belts!! thats my 2 cents!!

chris

 

i had my harness attached to the rear speaker thing... just for added safety, i used a large washer on the inside to distribute the force over a larger area instead of pulling on the nut right against the hole. I got into an accident with it, and it kept me right in my seat w/out even giving me any marks on my shoulders. i inspected the connection point for the harnesses, and it hadnt even bent the metal, so it seems like it worked pretty well.

 

the metal around the rear speakers/strut tower is very very weak and the angle for using all stock points is way too low. I found some bolt holes in the rear hatch that are from the factory that are deep and strong. check it out...(I only use the harnesses in autoX, not on the street).

 

oy...the best way to mount a harness is to a harness bar (rollbar or rollcage)
along with harnesses should be a racing shell (1piece seat, non-reclinable)

I wouldn't suggest any other way

 

I have the straps running under the hatch carpet now - looks much better.

 

can you say spinal compression?

 

That is horrible.

 

Most people don't wear a 3pt seat belt correctly. They wear the lap belt flat against there stomach instead of horizontally across the top of the thighs just below the pelvic.

Quote:

P.S. using a harness without a full cage is just plain stupid, you cant duck if you flip. also, using a cage without a helmet is also asking for death. even with the foam, it will still give you blunt force trama! good luck

Have you seen an FC RX-7 flip over? I have. A friend of mine rolled his going over 90 mph. The roof didn't cave in and decapitate him or the passenger. I've also seen pictures of other cars have rolled or landed on the roof and they were constructed quite well; their roofs don't collapse in when they roll over.

 

Yo,

I've had the discussion before if 4 point harnesses are safe on the street and track in a non-cage equipped car:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=203283

I have total faith in the engineering behind the Schroth ASM technology and belts. So much, that I'm betting my life on it.

I might get the sub-belt opening in the Recaro Speed seat ($50) and make it a 5 point belt system with the optional sub-belt on the Profi II-FE.

My main concern is getting the correct mounting points for the belts. On my Scirocco, I have the belts going to the rear lap belt points, the stock B pillar point, and the right hand stock seatbelt point. These are all factory locations and have Grade 8 bolts through them.

I just need to find out if I can use the factory mounting points for the Series 4 belts on a Series 5 for the Schroths.

Again, I am not worried about catasrophic roof collapse or submarining...just worried about getting good mounting points without drilling. If I have to drill, I'll drill.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "If I have to..."

 

For my setup I put the right strap and only one strap to that bolt. The left strap is attached to a bolt hole in the shock tower/side of chassis (think that's where the back seats had them mounted).

I used the stock locations for the lap ones. I did not remove the old 3 pt as that is illegal i beleive (removing saftey devices)

Reason I chose those is they are stock (saves work and engineered to do the job).

The angles are excellent and not less than 45 degrees.

 

I'm also interested in a solution...with pics hopefully

 

the area I used is the best place to mount without a cage/harness bar and as I said, I only use them during autoX where I need to be held in place so chassis movement doesn't effect me. rolling in an autocross is very very rare and there are no other cars running that I'm worried will hit me (like the street). the lap belts on the harnesses use the stock mounting points and my stock belts are still in the car for street use.

 

ttt

 

Yo,

You might have to step up bro! Get to rippin' out that carpet and seeing what lies beneath! *grin*

I will take pics when I get the cash for the seat/harnesses. We'll see what Uncle Sam has to say about that.

Maybe if we looked at the S4 FSM for seatbelt attachment points?

*edit: Looks like the manuals are gone from the www.fc3.org site. Bummer.

Man, I'm gonna have to work instead of being spoonfed the answer from the Forum.

Damn.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Laziness is its own reward."

 

you can use the stock points for the lap belts with long enough (and quality) hardware and some washers but you cannot use stock points for the rear straps since the angle is all wrong. the mounting point for the rear shouldn't be too far below shoulder length if I remember correctly. mine is obviously too low but it was the best I could do and for autoX it works, I was able to drive much more confidently at the limit bc I was held so firmly in place and wasn't moving with the chassis. Eventually, I'll be putting in a cusco cage and have a harness bar fab'd for it. I repeat, I don't use harnesses on the street - it can be dangerous (rollovers are rare but it could happen to you) and it's a pain to keep fumbling around with them on simple around town errands.

 

For bolt in cages, you should get an autop[ower insstead of cusco

 

Kevin,
If you want my $0.02, I would ditch the luggage straps and drill holes in the chassis there to have some nice heavy duty eyebolts pop out of the spot in the carpet where the luggage straps are supposed to be. That should be far enough back to prevent spinal compression and it'll look clean. You'd need to make sure there's room to work underneath the car there, but theoretically, it should work.

Steve

 

ok, why would he drill holes there when there are factory holes right there that I used...then run the straps under the carpet (the pic was to illustrate where they are, the straps are now hidden under the carpet from the front of the hatch). holes you drill will NOT be as strong as factory ones back there. these holes are deep, strong and I believe they take a 12 or 14mm.

 

So much the better. It's been a while since I've been under the carpet there. It sounds like you've done it, how did it turn out?

Steve

 

he got lucky!

in anycase, please make sure to use at least 4-5 inch, 1/4 inch thick reinforcement plates behind the body instead of just a big washer...

 

I had an idea about this a while back. I was thinking of getting a piece of 1.5" -1.75" chromemoly tubing and welding a flange on both ends and attaching it to the holes for the mouse belts behind the seats on the b-pilliar and mounting the belts to that. Then triangulating to bars of the same size and material to the rear cargo area. Can you picture what im thinking? Effective mounting points and a b pillar brace. I'm not suggesting it, i'm just telling my idea. The roof structure is adequate to support the weight of the car. They're designed and tested for this. As you can tell i'm not a big fan of roll cages, they're too heavy and can be very dangerous if not installed correctly, used on the street, or used with out the proper equipment, as stated in a previous post.

-E

 

oh, and if you plan on racing with the 4-point check the rules for your class, im not sure about scca/auto-x type events but in drag racing, the NHRA requires a 5-piont or better. Just thought i'd add.

-E