ok ok..

little back story.

took the wife out for the first time in 3 years alone since my son was born last night. in the mazda no doubt. car ran great. got to the spot. shut her off. ate dinner had drinks. got back in the car bout 2 hrs later.

heard some metal lightly flailing around. shut the it off immediately. pop the hood. oil EVERYWHERE! looked under the car.. it look liked someone just gutted a cow and split. if the cow bled oil. found these shiny things also.. im hoping. i can just replace them, pop them back in (minus the bent one) fill it up with oil and call it a day. mind you. .what is that bent one called and can i get it from an auto parts store?

i assume its oil pump related since.. uh. oil shout out like jizz back pressure from blu *****.

what should i be looking for? further more. what could have caused that threaded bolt to just come off? i have not even toughed that part of the car. any ideas?

89 t2 all stock
3in dp
apexi cone filter



thanks a bunch.

 

look at the front of your eccentric shaft.
it goes there.Oil thermal pellet.

 

by the way that holds the Hub on and the main pulley attaches to that so do not run the car without that part on it.

 

thanks, yea i see what youre talking about. i didnt get to look at the car in the day light. but i checked the fsm and found where it goes. so oil will shoot out of that hole? since that pin is bent. can i get another from a auto parts store or they might not have it? will another work from my n/a i have sitting in my yard?

 

well,one thing I would be worried about is if the hub moved and dropped the torrington bearing in front.
I'm not a builder but I suspect that you can use a N/A setup for now.
Get one from Mazdatrix?
LINK:Rotor Bearings, Eccentrics, Stationary Gears, Oil Pumps

 

thanks again man. im just kicking my self in the *** trying to figure out why it came loose?

according to the Mazdatrix link you sent me. it universal from 86 models to 95. so my 87 na keg should do the trick. so glad i didnt scrap that car. i guess even in death rotary's have value.

i guess just for sake of information to add. i found this link. on some sort of mod.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html

can anyone provide some insight to this mods function?

answered my own question.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...cement-243613/
love this forum....sometimes

 

know... my question is this: How the hell does that bolt just 'fall off'? from mazda that bolt assembly is loctited in place AND torqued down (I want to say at least 300ft/lbs similar to the flywheel nut). If that thing managed to back its way out.... you have bigger issues than you think.

 

I had a mechanic do side basic work on the engine. Water pump, tranny swap clutch.. after the pump was done I think. He mentioned a oil pan leak. Do I'm nit sure Or maybe the prev owner rebuild didn't torque it right

 

Hmm..My guess is gonna be when the waterpump was changed.Someone that since the main pulley has to come off or moved to get the pump off that they took the main pulley and HUB out.It also would get in the way of a oil pan sealing job.
You need to check those torrington bearings now IF it was done that way.

 

Where are the bearings located?

 

Front Pulley / Thrust Bearings

I would say that if your e-shaft bolt got flung out that your torrington bearing most certainly dropped.

You could try to reinstall and measure the gap per the service manual, but being that your situation was a little more catastrophic you might wanna just go ahead and pull the cover...

 

how do get the lock bolt off? when i use the torque wrench it spins the eshaft and i cant get it to sit still. im assuming another tool to hold the pully in place. while i use the torque wrench.

 

welp.

i took the one off my old n/a. with a little help from a buddy of mine.

degrease and cleaned the engine bay. pop it in with LOCKTITE as i noticed the other bolt didnt have it. and its been running pretty smooth since saturday.

thanks for you help yall.

 

one thing you need to check immediately is weather the engine has correct endplay. A way to check if all is well is a little trick Judge Ito taught me look at the front pulley while the engine is running. Have someone kill the motor, when it shuts down you should see a bit or pulley rotation counterclockwise. This compression kickback lets you know the torrington bearings are not binding or pinched.

Another thing is that you should check the oil dipstick for metal particles, if you find any and they stick to a magnet then the engine is toast and will need a rebuild.

Good luck!!!

 

This thread! Thank you for reminding me. I had taken that bolt off over 2 months ago while I was waiting on parts for my rebuild and completely spaced the torrington bearing.

Just double checked it, good to go! cheers

 

Wow, never heard of an eshaft bolt going loose. I would be worried that the lack of oil pressure (oil goes out the eshaft instead through it feeding bearings and rotor faces) already caused wear.

Besides that dont just bolt it back in, as already said the torrington bearings are almost certainly not aligned anymore. This WILL cause a critical engine failure.

The proper way would be to remove the front cover and oilpan and check the front endplay assembly as per mazdatrix or FSM (someone posted the link already). Doing this in car (engine horizontal) is a bit more tricky. On an engine stand (engine with eshaft perpendicular to the ground) this is easy going. You will see for yourself once you open the frontcover. Make sure all the bolts are tightened to spec and slap the one who worked on that motor and played with this bolt.

Make sure you get one of these 86-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Atkins' Thermal Pellet (ARE50) To upgrade the stocker.

 

no metal shavings and kicks back just fine. i think im ok. but i will have to pull that front cover. but i need a different car ..




hmm. interesting. i read the description of that pellet you mentioned. now that i think back. i did have very little smoke during cold starts only. after i replaced it from the na ( its my DD and my spare car was in use) the issue went away.

not that im trying to half ***.. i am aware of the risk. again my DD. and situation is tight. but i keep outta boost and drive like an old lady for the most part.

 

Your mechanic fucked you. It's simple things like this which is why I will only have a rotary mechanic work on my car. All he had to do to gain access to removing the water pump was remove the 4 fan nuts and 4 main pulley bolts to remove the pulley. You never want to remove the front hub/eshaft bolt. Be sure to follow correct procedure to reseat the bearing that could have dropped or you will blow your motor.

Not the end of the world. You noticed it right away, which is good. Fix it and enjoy your car again. Best of luck!

 

Right now I dont get what kickback has to do with misaligned torrington bearings. As far as I know the torrington bearings are there to limit the front to back play of the rotating assembly. The thickness of the spacer defines the amount of movement possible.

I did a rebuild with a friend on a 13B T2 engine. It had a coolant wall break and was not running properly after rebuild so we did rebuild it together. Turned out that the torrington bearings were pinched during first rebuild (misaligned and then clamped down by the force of the front eshaft bolt) Long story short, the front counterweight shaved on the frontcover, if I remember correctly the oil pump and bearings plus torringtons were toast. First time I saw the result of misaligned torrington bearings happen. Lucky that the engine was running like **** otherwise it would have destroyed itself a couple miles further.

I wouldnt start the motor without reseating the bearings. Its like dropping a nut down the intake runners, the nut will take out the engine immediatly while the torringtons will take a few miles.

As for the pellet, I replace it with the solid one in all my rebuilds. Its only 8,25 USD. Cheap insurance imho.

I agree with tuscanidream, its dangerous if non rotary mechanics work on your car. They usually dont know what they are doing and damage potential is huge. In my country there is no such rotary mechanic so I have to do everything myself.

 

If the Torrington bearings are misaligned then it will bind with the plate and not allow free unpowered movement. That is the kickback check. Also, once torqued if there is misalignment then metal shavings will present themselves in the first 30 minutes of running it.