I started a previous thread on here trying to find out what was causing the extreme coolant/oil mixture in my engine. And got some good suggestions, thanks.
Two members suggested the freeze out plugs might be faulty.
I have searched everywhere trying to find out where they are located. Being I have never tore down any rotary, I am clueless.
I would appreciate any and all help.

Thanks again!

 

I just spoke with the mazda dealer and he couldn't even pull them up on the fish????

 

freeze plugs are on front and rear iron (front ones are hidden under front cover, rear ones will show up while u remove flywheel...)

But i really doubt u have any problems with them (front ones will be questioned if you getting oil into coolant or coolant into water)

More likely its just water seal going on.

 

I have them in stosk, and how many miles are on this motor????

Dan Atkins

 

140k on the motor, good compression, now that i think about it I remember last winter my radiator did freeze up, so i am thinking it's freeze out plugs.
If it were the rear plugs you would see the mix inside the tranny housing...right?
If so then I'm thinking it probably is just the fronts?

 

Thanks Dan for your inputs on the subject, I know you're a very busy person, so I really appreciate your time on this.

 

Thanks also hIGGI, here are some links to the picks of the froth in my oil :

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p...615P6221889.jpg
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p...616P6221887.jpg

 

oooopssss.......

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...15P6221889.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...16P6221887.jpg

 

wow looks like soft serve ice cream

 

But sure doesn't taste like it. he he

 

Holy **** that looks really bad

-Joe

 

HOLY ****! Ive never seen something that bad.. How quickly are you losing coolant?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the freeze plugs are supposed to come out when the coolant freezes right? This is to prevent the expanding water from cracking the block. But, when your coolant thaws out and turns to liquid, the open hole gives it a path to escape the engine, thus you'd run out of coolant completely and engine would over heat right? Thats the way I've always understood it but I may be wrong. But nonetheless, your **** looks nasty and I wouldn't drive the car until I figured that out.

 

Earlier in the year I wasn't losing much at all, just had to add maybe a pint a week. But the other day is when it just got nasty, as I poured in the water, you could visually watch the collant level drop, and then I took a chance with driving it like that, and made it half way home before the temp gauge was about the half mark, that's when I pulled over, and lifted the hood, and that frothy *** **** was spewing out a crack in my oil filler cap. So I left the car, and came back later to drive the car the rest the way home. It got 3/4 to the red before I got home, I haven't and won't drive it again until I figure it all out. It sux.
I just hope it's the freeze outs, I really can't afford to rebuild, if it comes to that I'll prolly have to sell her. :o(

 

But the bad boy still fires right up right now with only a couple cranks. :o)

 

At this point you have nothing to lose- drain the oil & leave the plug out, pull both of the leading (bottom) plugs, and inject some MMO, mouse milk, or other thin penetrating oil into each rotor housing, at least enough to visually see it pouring out of the oil pan drain hole (at least 6-8 onces, I would think)...This will (maybe) tell you if you have an internal leak in this area of the engine, which would definitely require a rebuild...

As for the freeze plug hypothesis, pull the water pump off, leave the housing on the car, and pour water into the large coolant channels on the housing. If your plugs are leaking (I'm guessing corrosion more than your block freezing, since it seems to get worse with time), you'll see it coming out of the oil pan drain...

Good luck...

 

But if there was an internal leak in the rotor housing wouldn't that affect the compression?
The car has fine compression.
I am gonna try your idea on the freeze plugs though. Thanks again for some good input. :o)

 

Actually I don't subscribe to the rotor housing theory, because like Aaron (I think) stated earlier, it would be very difficult to get a coolant/oil mixture there, especially in the quantities your describing...

Yeh, do the water pump housing thing first, pour it in the space vacated by the removal of the pump, I think it will make its way down there to the pan if you got a bad plug...This would be MUCH easier to fix too, so let's hope that's your problem....

 

My fingers are crossed. Hopefully it's the fronts.

On the brighter side it gives me a reason to start doing my own work on my engine, instead of trusting confused mechanics.

Thanks to you guys here, I'm gonna give it a whirl.

 

The suspense is killing me
Get pouring

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Project84
[B]Correct me if I'm wrong, but the freeze plugs are supposed to come out when the coolant freezes right? This is to prevent the expanding water from cracking the block.[Quote]

I have seen motors that were frozen by weather and the freeze plugs never moved what it did was breake the castirons or make them swell up.

Dan

 

I'll keep you guys posted as I take it apart if you want.
I can even go as far as taking some pictures of the mess as I go. :o)