I'm new to this board and have no clue where to find a good deal on a 13b engine. I own a 90 RX7 Convertible with 80k that apex seals went out. I swaped an 89 engine that had few different parts than the 90 engine. My problem now is that the injectors won't open up and can't figure out why and there is pressure in the fuel line. If I spray starting fluid in the intake yeah it starts but after doing it couple of times the engine will not run anymore. Could it be the Air Flow Meter?

 

all our cars have 13B's the turbos have 13Bt

 

IF you're looking for another engine, check out www.rotaryresurrection.com. IF you just want to get this one running, well, you've got a long way to go, and will need to give a better description of what you've checked out so far.

An engine needs 3 basic things to run: fuel, spark, compression.

You always check compression first. THen spark (it's easiest) which includes having timing set near properly. FInally check fuel delivery, at several points up to and including the injectors. Lack of fuel delivery signals an electrical problem elsewhere such as a bad fuse, fuelpump, or ecu.

 

How are you spraying starting fluid into the intake? If your intake system from the AFM back isnt completely intact, that engine wont run for more then a few seconds.

Jarrett

 

Okay I've checked ECU(works), Fuel Pump(works), Spark in every plug(works), and all fuses are good. The intake system is intact and i double checked it. Could it be a bad AFM. But what triggers the injectors to open? I know the ECU does but it's not opening. There is absolutly no fuel in the chamber but theres pressure in the lines. I know how to do a compression check on piston engines but not rotary. Is it the same?

 

No, A compression check on a rotary is different. Are you sure the injectors arent opening?

 

Yes the injectors are not opening. I checked the spark plugs to see if its wet when trying to start it and is completely dry. There is no odor of gas in the chambers at all. Could it be the injector resistor boxes?

 

?: does your tach needle bounce when cranking the engine over? IF not, it indicated an electrical problem


Check the 15A engine fuse inside the car. Check all the fuses under the hood.

There are no injector resistor packs for an 88 or later engine/wiringharness.

IF you are certain you have no blown fuses or unplugged electrical connections (such as at/near the ecu, etc.), take off your intake, and the primary fuel rail loose from the block. Use wire of some sort to tie the injectors to the rail, hold them up with a pan underneath, and have someone crank the car. They should fire in a front-back pattern. This is a direct representation of what happens when you're trying to start it, and a bulletproof way to check for fuel delivery.