Where can I buy new exhaust manifold to turbo nuts/bolts?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
I was wondering where I can get bolts/nuts and washers for the Turbo exhaust manifildto block that are equivalent to OEM ?
I figured the hardware store but are they the same strength , and same size as far as fitment?
Also will need a few for other things. Mine don't want to thread on easily and I'm not risking ruining my studs.
Edit - should all exhaust parts have a washer on them under the nut or is it not necessarily needed for everything
Rotary > Pistons
I figured the hardware store but are they the same strength , and same size as far as fitment?
Also will need a few for other things. Mine don't want to thread on easily and I'm not risking ruining my studs.
Edit - should all exhaust parts have a washer on them under the nut or is it not necessarily needed for everything
Rotary > Pistons
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
I found mine look like they have lock nuts attached or whatever but they wouldn't thread on with my fingers, I didn't think it should require alot of torque to simply thread them on just to make sure they work.
The ones with no lock nut from my Turbo to ex manifold threaded on effortlessly
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The ones with no lock nut from my Turbo to ex manifold threaded on effortlessly
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
factory part number for the 14mm non lock nuts is 8134-40-355, the bigger ones are 8118-40-355 i think
the lock nuts are actually inconel, JE10-40-355 in 14mm head and JE11-40-355 in 17mm head
the lock nuts are actually inconel, JE10-40-355 in 14mm head and JE11-40-355 in 17mm head
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
Is using different stuff from OEM bad? I really don't want to pay for something that's not absolutely necessary.
I'm finding them for 3-5 bucks each and I need like 5 so that's alot of money. Really I just want to put my car together
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I'm finding them for 3-5 bucks each and I need like 5 so that's alot of money. Really I just want to put my car together
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
I just got some at home depot class 10 but I'm skeptical wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy the OEM Mazda stuff.
I don't want to be taking my engine out to replace these cheap nuts/bolts later on..it'd be really sad to go through all the labor to replace them if it could have been prevented.
Any input?
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I don't want to be taking my engine out to replace these cheap nuts/bolts later on..it'd be really sad to go through all the labor to replace them if it could have been prevented.
Any input?
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you don't have to pull the engine to change any of the turbo nuts/bolts. stainless is fine too, the only real problem with the hardware store stuff is that it sometimes is a 15mm head, instead of 14, so in some spots its a TIGHT fit
the other thing to think about is that you actually do need some kind of locking on the nut, lockwashers are ok. the T2 had a bunch of tabs, which are a PITA, the FD and everything newer uses a lock nut.
the other thing to think about is that you actually do need some kind of locking on the nut, lockwashers are ok. the T2 had a bunch of tabs, which are a PITA, the FD and everything newer uses a lock nut.
most are actually a 17mm head which is rather lame and causes them to be a royal pita to work with.
generally i try to use the late model FD locking nuts since they are only slightly more expensive than the OEM nuts and never back out.
generally i try to use the late model FD locking nuts since they are only slightly more expensive than the OEM nuts and never back out.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
Locking nut you say . I got hex nuts and locking washers. Will that do the same thing or do I need to go back and get locking nuts?
Locking nuts looked to have plastic or something in the outer end which I assume locks them in place.
Im still on my dry run putting the engine together before I actually put gaskets on and torque everything down so I can go back and get the other nuts instead if need be.
Here's what I got.

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Locking nuts looked to have plastic or something in the outer end which I assume locks them in place.
Im still on my dry run putting the engine together before I actually put gaskets on and torque everything down so I can go back and get the other nuts instead if need be.
Here's what I got.

Rotary > Pistons
lock washers are the best you could hope for from the hardware store.
by FD lock nuts i'm referring to the crowned crimp end of the long FD late model inconel exhaust nuts which are still rather pricey at about $7 a pop but i have never found anything better.
SS works but the nuts may work themselves loose over time. just tighten them down a bit harder so they can't budge.
by FD lock nuts i'm referring to the crowned crimp end of the long FD late model inconel exhaust nuts which are still rather pricey at about $7 a pop but i have never found anything better.
SS works but the nuts may work themselves loose over time. just tighten them down a bit harder so they can't budge.
I think this might be what you are looking for. I ordered complete nut/bolts for my engine from them and have been quite pleased so far.
Copper Clad Exhaust Lock Nut 8mm X 1.25 Pitch [FST-031] - $1.35 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
Copper Clad Exhaust Lock Nut 8mm X 1.25 Pitch [FST-031] - $1.35 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
I already put it together with what I've got wish me luck.
I think I do have the stock locknuts but they didnt want to thread on I figured they were no good.
So I'm using some OEM nuts without locking nuts but locking washers from manifold to engine and ill use the home depot ones on the Turbo to ex manifold.
Rotary > Pistons
I think I do have the stock locknuts but they didnt want to thread on I figured they were no good.
So I'm using some OEM nuts without locking nuts but locking washers from manifold to engine and ill use the home depot ones on the Turbo to ex manifold.
Rotary > Pistons
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
You're right about the heads being too big as 17mm I ended up using the two 14mm lock nuts I had on the top of the Turbo to manifold , and 17mm home depot ones on the bottom.
There was absolutely no way to torque the 17mm ones on the top because of the simple fact that nothing can weasel its way in there to turn them.
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There was absolutely no way to torque the 17mm ones on the top because of the simple fact that nothing can weasel its way in there to turn them.
Rotary > Pistons
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