My alternator is on it's last leg pushing only 13.3 volts @ all rpms. I want to buy one but I'm getting prices between $120-$145. Found some on the internet but $80 + $15 shipping + $15 to ship the core = $110 and no way know what I'm getting until it shows up.

Any body got a hook up, or a good place to buy from?

I would like to go to a rebuilder but haven't had any luck finding one that hasn't gone out of business in Kalamazoo.

I have a new reman S4 altenator I got from a donar car I gutted a few years ago, do the bushes match? If so I might try to make a Franken-alternator. (did this with a non-turbo and turbo starter and it's still working after 5 years) Any thoughts?

 

I dont think you are going to get away any cheaper then that, maybe just go to a local place to avoid the shipping back and forth.

I had purchased a new FD alternator because locally no one had any without a core.
They are not cheap but what are you going to do?

 

Swap the alternators.use the Connector that the alternator needs,just attach it to the Engine harness.Search out alt Swap..Fd alt,something along those Lines.There is a Diagram with all the Different alternators on them and the prospective wires.
The FD alt will fit on an S5 no problem.on an S4 you need the connector..anyways Good Luck.

 

does Mazda still sell new S5 alternator ?

just wondering. cuz Im getting my S5 tomorrow

 

Low mile TII S5 Alternator with less tha 50,000 miles

$65.00 Shipped

pulled from a Jspec longblock

I must have 15 of them

 

Don't buy a used one, biggest mistake I ever made. Buy a new/reman one with a warranty. I bought a used one, had it "rebuilt" by a local shop two times (rectifier bridge then V reg.) and then a third time it completely died so I replaced it with an advance one. Biggest nightmare ever.

 

So never ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever ever, ever, ever, ever buy an altenator from Autozone.

Here is why, I bought a new altenator from autozone last week. I installed it and drove around the block. I turned on all my lights, e-fan, and stereos and it worked fine. I then pulled on the highway to go to the drag strip. The voltage drove off instantly, thought I lost a belts so I used a cop cut through to get off the high way, but did not make it under power. Car cut off a 7 volts. Lucky I coasted off the highway into a parking lot. I have lost alot of belts on my trucks and have never had the car dies so soon. There was nothing wrong with my belts, connection ect..

So then I walked 3 miles throught the ghetto back home to get my truck and tools. I swapped the old one back one and my car crank started. I drove then car home, rode my skate board 3 miles (mostly down hill) back to get my truck.

Story over... **** no

So I go back to return the altenator, and they test it... and it passes. They refuse to give me a refund. After working with the guy he garrentied they'd give me a refund if I reinstalled it and it happened again. He was 100% sure I had a bad connection.

So first things I do is beat on my car, shake the wires, and try every thing to get my old altenator to screw up. It works like a champ after 18 years. Put the "new one" on, and too my amazement the cars starts. I drive in a 1 mile circle around my apartment and after the car was up to temp I was feeling dumb, so I head for the highway. As I'm sitting a light for the highway the voltage drops like a rock. I get a mile alway from my apartment and it dies. I try jumping it and it will run for a few minutes but the voltage fall like a rock. It is late so I decide to leave the car and come and get it before work the next day.

The next morning a 6 am I drive the truck and get the car. It starts up with a jump and drive it home, jog back to the truck and get to work by 7:15 AM.

If you haven't guessed yet, the altenator is grounding out on it's self when it gets hot. So it passes all there tests, and will leave you on the side of the road over and over again.

The guy at autozone stuck to his word, after some phrases like "I've had to walk 7 miles in 24 hours becuase of this POS" So I'll give him credit for that, and the fact they had to pay me for my core. But I am 100% sure they will be selling this altenator to someone else, becuase he still thought it was not the altenator.

This is a rant and please take it with a grain of salt.

 

I got a new one from a good foreign repair/parts shop and I only had one complaint and that is that the original eye hole attachment did not fit for some reason and I had to alter the alternator or the eye hole to get it to work. Works great 14+ volts output and was like $152 or so total. Once again, good thing I save my receipts.

 

might as well get an fd alt if you have an s5.

 

tarus alt

Same connector as S5, just swap over the pulley and your set!

 

Whats the advantage of an FD alt or a Taurus alt over a stock S5 alt?

 

I forget how many amps the taurus alt I got was but I'm pretty sure it was higher then the stock S5, atleast my lights seemed brighter. Only issue I saw (may have been my batt) I had to rev it to 3k or so sometimes my lights would be dim forever if i drove around low rpms, once I got it to 3k or so pewf it hit about 14v no prob could turn on everything, left the dome light on for hours (Batt was a cheapy over a yr old too)

I just never understood why it would be low (Like 11volts) and spike up, it was a brand new taurus alt.

Oh yeah one benefit is their cheaper, easy to locate. Only issue is the pulley must be changed... which you can do or pay a shop since I didnt have tools, 25bucks.

 

Ok so the amprage is the big deal. I am going to be putting a system in my car soon and I just don't want to kill the electrical system when I do. Nothing crazy going in, just 1 Alpine v-12 100x4 RMS and 1 Alpine Vpower sub amp at like 150 RMS. I know this is gonna be a lot of juice and I will be turning down the gain so I am really only pushing like half to 3/4 the wattage.

 

I had a sony 50w rms x4 i think or higher, boss 400w rms amp and my lights wouldnt dim or nothing

I think the t-altis 100a, fd 120 or 110a ish, I believe it was a 1994 or 93 t-alt for the 6cyl around 2L, go in and take alook if the alt looks the same as the fc alt (if yours is s4 the connector will be different but it seems to be the same for s5)

One issue I faced was the little extending arm didnt fit, with 15mins and some sort of tool you could get it on there fine (I think it was threaded for the fc alt, just dethread it clean the inside contacts and bolt iton? ) anyways I think you'd be fine with the tuarus alt, or go with one of those 3G tuarus alts that require alil work to fit in

Search for the alt thread, I also posted stuff about the alt i had, I do not have my fc anymore but i posted lots of info.

 

I understand your frustration. Take it to a different Autozone. Don't go in with a ****-U attitude. Go in with an humble 'I have a problem, can you work with me' attitude. Shop around in the oil and filter or the tool section and listen to how the different guys deal with customers. Pick the guy that seems good to work with.

They will help you. It is a lifetime warranty. They will help you with a replacement-they will never give you your money back. You are on the escalator and you cannot get off, unless you want to abandon the $130+/- that you already spent.

I bought an S5 alternator from them that developed a similar issue. The replacement worked fine for a couple of years with absolutely no problems. I still have it on the shelf as a backup. You may go through a couple of alts first, but you will find a winner.

Good Luck and have patience.

 

The answers to all your Taurus alternator questions...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/130-amp-alternator-sweetness-785082/