Where is the alt relay cpu located?
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Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 918
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From: Rockford, IL
Where is the alt relay cpu located?
What does an alt cpu relay look like? And where under the dash would it be located on a jdm s5 Turbo.
The guy who tuned my car said I needed to test it and possibly replace it or/and make sure its grounded right.
The guy who tuned my car said I needed to test it and possibly replace it or/and make sure its grounded right.
excited via magnetism?
i know if you put a wrench behing a good alt it will act like a magnet and pull it in..
upgrade to FD alt, super easy just need pully, well don't know shaft size on s5 myself but i know s6 is 17mm, as far as wiring, that is easy too, just plug it in, same plug
i know if you put a wrench behing a good alt it will act like a magnet and pull it in..
upgrade to FD alt, super easy just need pully, well don't know shaft size on s5 myself but i know s6 is 17mm, as far as wiring, that is easy too, just plug it in, same plug
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
the Fd alternator has an Internal regulator if that is what you are referring to.
Other than That:hit that Tuner guy with a Dongle Forkin!
Other than That:hit that Tuner guy with a Dongle Forkin!
excited via magnetism?
i know if you put a wrench behing a good alt it will act like a magnet and pull it in..
upgrade to FD alt, super easy just need pully, well don't know shaft size on s5 myself but i know s6 is 17mm, as far as wiring, that is easy too, just plug it in, same plug
i know if you put a wrench behing a good alt it will act like a magnet and pull it in..
upgrade to FD alt, super easy just need pully, well don't know shaft size on s5 myself but i know s6 is 17mm, as far as wiring, that is easy too, just plug it in, same plug
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
There's an Alternator relay inside the CPU on a series four. On a series five there is no alternator relay inside the CPU.
If you turn the key ON, engine OFF, all the warning lights in the warning light assy should light up. If not, then you have a open wire b/t the warning unit and the alternator. Or the alternator is a bit fubar'd.
IF the key is ON, engine off, you should be able to ***** the insulation on the alternators W/B wire and see 1-3vdc. If so, that's good.
Yeah, fifteen volts is a bit high and makes one think the voltage regulator is amiss inside the alternator i.e. not controlling the output of the alternator like it should.
See attached jpg.
If you pull the small plug off the alernator, and with the key ON, put a ground on the W/B wire of that PLUG, then all the warning lights in the warning light assy should light up. IF they do, there is nothing wrong with the warning light assy or its relay/switch inside it.
The next step from the above, would be to put the plug back on the alternator and put the key ON, engine Off. Get your meter out and ***** the W/B wire on the alternators small plug and see if it has 1-3vdc. If that is not there, then the regulator inside the alt is kaput. Gone. Not regulating like it's supposed to be regulating.
VR cost about 25bucks on EBAY, but it requires some moderate soldering skills to install inside the alternator. Also you have to disassy the alternator to replace the VR. VR is voltage regulator. The VR is soldered in the back of the alternators body. Only four long bolts hold the two halves of the alternator together. See ENGINE ELECTRICAL in the FSM.
If you turn the key ON, engine OFF, all the warning lights in the warning light assy should light up. If not, then you have a open wire b/t the warning unit and the alternator. Or the alternator is a bit fubar'd.
IF the key is ON, engine off, you should be able to ***** the insulation on the alternators W/B wire and see 1-3vdc. If so, that's good.
Yeah, fifteen volts is a bit high and makes one think the voltage regulator is amiss inside the alternator i.e. not controlling the output of the alternator like it should.
See attached jpg.
If you pull the small plug off the alernator, and with the key ON, put a ground on the W/B wire of that PLUG, then all the warning lights in the warning light assy should light up. IF they do, there is nothing wrong with the warning light assy or its relay/switch inside it.
The next step from the above, would be to put the plug back on the alternator and put the key ON, engine Off. Get your meter out and ***** the W/B wire on the alternators small plug and see if it has 1-3vdc. If that is not there, then the regulator inside the alt is kaput. Gone. Not regulating like it's supposed to be regulating.
VR cost about 25bucks on EBAY, but it requires some moderate soldering skills to install inside the alternator. Also you have to disassy the alternator to replace the VR. VR is voltage regulator. The VR is soldered in the back of the alternators body. Only four long bolts hold the two halves of the alternator together. See ENGINE ELECTRICAL in the FSM.
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HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Like I say, pull the two wire plug off the alternator. Put the key ON. Ground the W/B wire. The warning lights should come on. ALL the warning lights should come on.
A sign of a failed alternator regulator is the warning lights not ALL coming on when the key is put to ON, key OFF.
Proof of the viability of the warning light assy is to do what I suggested in the first paragraph.
Clock has nothing to do with the problem.
A sign of a failed alternator regulator is the warning lights not ALL coming on when the key is put to ON, key OFF.
Proof of the viability of the warning light assy is to do what I suggested in the first paragraph.
Clock has nothing to do with the problem.
