OverDriven

I should be able to take the 2 coolant lines, put a small piece of pipe between them to connect them, clamp them on to keep em tight, and I should be set right? As far as I know this is exactly how they are set up now, just through the BAC body.

-Joe

jgrts20

i was wondering the same thing, man!! it would be better without a BAC!!

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

yes you can

i hope all of you fully know the implications of removing the bac.

I've ran with out it a year and mixed feelings. Get prepared for some tunning fun using the butterflies.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Those coolant lines dont have ANYTHING to do with the BAC. In fact, the peice they flow through can be removed from the BAC (2 screws). Thats water for the thermowax system.

gergrx7

if you have AC or powersteering, you should keep the bac. there is no reason to take it off, all it does is smooth out your idle when accesories are on. and yes jrat is right you can take that piece that connects coolant lines off but its a PITA, the screws strip. good luck getting them out.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Does the BAC have any effect on stabalizing the idle from electrical loads, such as headlights? I removed my PS and A/C, so was thinking of tossing the BAC as well.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it stabilizes for electrical load also.

OverDriven

Well, its gone! My BAC was sticking even after cleaning and lubricating. The results after I blocked it off? The idle is smoothed out even more now, and I actually have a higher idle. I didn't have to touch the butterfly set screw, and had no problem at all with the A/C on (which is never used and is coming out anyways). Yay for blocking the BAC (if yours is going bad).

-Joe

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

how high is your idle?

Kenteth

I have to agree here.

I did the full TB mod (thermal wax removal, 2ndaries removed, and finaly I removed the BAC.)

If I could do it over again, I can say 100% I would have left the 2ndaries and BAC in place. Oh well... live and learn.

Now I have to hold the accel pedal to start, and hold it there (while sitting in the car) for the car to warm up. this is as opposed to jumping in the car, turning the key (no pedal assist), start the car, go back inside and wait 5 mins...

NZConvertible

Um, why?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

The screws are PITA I almost stripped them so I had to clean the damn thing inside the engine bay.

OverDriven

Its at about 900 now. I just need to adjust the hard idle set screw and bring it down 100 or so.

-Joe

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

hard idle set screw?

what's that? That wouldn't be the butterflies would it

OverDriven

Yep the butterflies

-Joe

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

now it gets fun

1 turn is about 100 rpm so it's very touchy.

make sure the tps is adjusted after that and use the idle mixture too.

Electrical loads like bright/e-fans/radios make doing this a pain.

pmr2000

Where are the butterflies, can I use this to up my idle?

OverDriven

Yes you can...its behind the throttle body. Screwing it in is bascially the same as pushing the gas...it causes the butterflies to open more.

-Joe

Driftmechanix

i'd leave it, my idle went sour after i took it off and did the tb mod.

NZConvertible

That's because you didn't set the TB properly or created a vac leak. If it's done properly, the TB mod does not affect warn idle quality at all.

pmr2000

I have a '88 vert with stock 13b, are we talking about the plastic cap covered screw attached to acclerator cable linkage?