texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

AND the water thermostat housing has two screws...... s5's have three.

JasonS

iTrader: (62)

Good grief...S4 or S5?! I'll snap more pics!

How 'bout I just pull it and drop in a V8?!

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Lol, that may cause more headaches than you know! plus...... that's just not a classy thing to do IMO.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

front cover and water pump, and from what I can tell, manifolds and turbo are S4, I cant tell about the internals, plates, or housings, but i think itd probably be safe to assume that they're S4 as well.

If those nipples for the crankcase vent are open, you should run them to the intake before the turbo, but make sure to use the PCV valve, otherwise you could suck oil from the crankcase into the intake... ask me how i know :-/... oops. If you can, put the charcoal canister etc back in... it doesnt add complexity, doesnt rob you of power, it basically just makes your car smell less like gas since the gas tank isnt venting straight to atmosphere.

However, they definitely weren't causing the oil leak and smoking, and if theres oil in the intercooler, the leak is pre-engine, ruling out the engine itself. The only thing left is the turbo that could be causing it. You can get rebuild kits, but DO NOT get them from gpopshop.com... they say that they have the correct one for our HT18 turbos, but its really not. I got one, and there was almost nothing that fit. Just the oil control seal on the turbine side, the thrust bushing, and the main bushings.

The compression numbers seem fine, you'll only see 100+ on a fresh rebuild with new housings, a good battery, and a like-new starter. on typically used components, the numbers you're showing are fine.

imloggedin

from and old thread..

i believe it was above the spark plugs. dont remember which housing though. also in the spare parts the original owner gave me was an S5 OMP. the intercooler is jspec. the alternator is S5

..and how can you tell that?


...s4 ecu. u fail.

JasonS

iTrader: (62)

"If those nipples for the crankcase vent are open, you should run them to the intake before the turbo, but make sure to use the PCV valve, otherwise you could suck oil from the crankcase into the intake... ask me how i know :-/... oops. If you can, put the charcoal canister etc back in... it doesnt add complexity, doesnt rob you of power, it basically just makes your car smell less like gas since the gas tank isnt venting straight to atmosphere."

Okay, I can't put the charcoal canister back in because I don't have one. Can I run a hose from the oil fill neck and crankcase vent to the big mess that served as the intake to the turbo? I can buy a pcv valve, install it and run those lines to it?

I have a rebuild kit for a S4 turbo, but you guys have me questioning what I have, so I'll get more pictures today.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

can u guys post pix of how to setup the pcv with no emissions and what the valve looks like?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

well, the throttle body is definately S4, you can see the arm that would be used to actuate the mechanical OMP in picture 6.. and i doubt someone would use the S5 manifolds yet keep the S4 TB and swap to the S4 front plate, water pump etc. As for the turbo, I think in the pictures you'd be able to see the extra wastegate area from the angle that they were taken, but you cant.... it may still be an S5 turbo, thats why I said that I wasnt sure.

You can tell about the engine internals based on what dcfc3s said... if you have the knock sensor (or a big empty threaded hole) in the center iron right near where the oil fill tube connects, facing forwards IIRC, then its an S4. If the knock sensor (or a big empty threaded hole) is in one of the rotor housings sticking towards the drivers side, then you've got an S5 engine. If you have both or neither, its a rebuilt motor with mixed parts, and who knows what you have.

for hooking up the purge control valve (PCV) and taking care of evaporative emissions, pg 4b-88 in the FSM (http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/file...sion_cntrl.pdf) has a nice little diagram of how it is stock. After I removed a lot of the emissions stuff, I hooked this stuff back up since its a completely passive system and doesn't hurt or hinder anything. The PCV looks like a black plastic disc about 3" in diameter and maybe a half inch thick, with one nipple coming out of the center on each side, and an additional nipple on one of the sides offset from the center. I dont have any pictures of one right now tho.

imloggedin

the PCV is gone. you do have your charcoal canister, its the black round canister thing in the rear (toward the firewall) passenger side of the engine. by the cruise control acuator

should he? who says? its perfectly fine being vented to atmostphere. its not causing the smoking either. infact, theres less chance of smoke from your exhaust if you have it vented to atmostphere.

there sure is alot about pcv here. you think this will help with the smoke problem? NOO ITS VENTED. last time i checked oil + atmosphere = oil. and oil + combustion = smoke.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

dont worry about that ... i think everyone is on the 100psi trip because its on kevin landers website (rotary resurrection) ... dont fry my kevin ...... basically if you are using like new rotors or remanufactured ones you should be seeing atleast 100+ on all surfaces. However on an engine that has not been reman but just have new seals in should see around 80-95ish which is very good. Once you drop into the low 70s then its time to contemplate new seals or housing.


that looks like someone ran a manual boost controller or a boost gauge of some sort previously

i think you are going to have to take the front cover off and have some fun with that lol

imloggedin

a compression test is also very dependant on the condition of the starter and battery.

it doesnt look like that at all. it looks like a stock BOV vented to atmosphere in a ghetto but proper way. what does the front cover have to do with anything thats being talked about??

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

as I said before, the PCV doesnt have to do with the smoking problem since its not hooked up (although i asked about it at first since if it was hooked up improperly, it could cause smoking), but it doesnt hurt to run it and the charcoal canister anyway to avoid just venting gas and oil fumes to cut down on the overall emissions of the car, and keeping the car from smelling like gas. I then elaborated on the pcv since xbox asked about it. The talk about the front cover was because the OP wasnt sure what series his engine was, so i was pointing out things that implied it was an S4

to the OP, if i didnt make this clear enough before, your smoking problem is due to a bad oil seal on the compressor side of the turbo. May as well rebuild the whole thing. your engine is fine, and many of the peripherals look to be S4. Based on your pictures and descriptions, I recommend using a PCV, and if you can get your hands on a charcoal canister, using that too, although these are not the cause of your smoking problem. If you cant get one, then just run the line from the tank and the nipples on the oil fill neck into a catch-can.

Also, i would recommend running coolant to the BAC valve from the nipple on the back of the water pump under the alternator, and then from the BAC valve back to the nipple sticking straight up on the rear iron.

Cap the open nipple in the turbo inlet duct, and dont forget to premix

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Also, you are not forgetting that the N/A's get have higher compression than turbo engines, right? So if 80 is bad for an N/A, that might be perfect for a turboed engine instead. Still not saying that 80 is god for a 13bt through, but it's not 70, or 60 or 30 like some... or "ZERO"

imloggedin

... as much as id like that to be true thats not a accurate statement.

... not really that useful. you dont smell that much gas. unless youre worried about polluting the ozone. he has a charcoal canister already in place. the fuel vent is probably still running to it as it is.

"An engine coolant passage is provided in the bypass air control valve for the following reasons: 1) To prevent valve icing 2) To maintain a constant fixed solenoid coil temperature"

... we dont live in canada. have you ran it without it and had consequences?

agreed.

JasonS

iTrader: (62)

I can't thank you guys enough for all the information!!

Chad, are you not thinking the turbo needs a rebuild? You think it's from the emissions being incorrect?

imloggedin

no i dont think the emissions are effecting the smoking. it seems like the turbo but i dont think it should be stated definite because it could still be in the engine (oil or coolant) or turbo. i cant think of anyway to tell definitely without rebuilding the turbo and seeing what happens after that. even if you did the work to run the car without the turbo on it, you still wouldn't know because the boost isnt there (which could be effecting the oil rings in the engine).

...first of all find out if youre losing oil or losing coolant. its likely its the turbo because its during high boost and let off but this forum speaks in definites too much, theres so many factors. just eliminate one at a time starting off with .. is it coolant or oil?

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

hahahaha omg i looked at it really quick and thought that was a wastegate ... yea it just looks a little hood rigged

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

I don't know what a "certified rotary specialist" is, but I can tell you that anything below 100psi is not excellent. This 100+psi is coming from personal experience and common rx7club.com knowledge. I'm not going to go into this any farther, because there are many different ways and methods of determining good compression, and/or knowing how to compute the information you're getting from your measurement tools and/or the engine specs...

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Uhhh... I just said the front-cover was s5. Look at the place where the electrical OMP pump should be. Hmmm... Look below that and you'll notice an 'S' shaped oil return-line where it bolts into the front-cover--and where it extends back into the turbo...

Hmmm... I just rebuilt an engine today using 50k mile housings and was getting 100psi front and 95psi rear with ZERO run-time... I guarentee that when I test the compression tomorrow after two hours of run-time I'll see closer to 105psi+ all around.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Well, I'm guessing it's an s5 engine and turbo (as originally stated by the thread-starter) with (obviously) s4 bolt-ons and controls...


I'm just going to latch onto this and reiterate what imloggedin already said... Don't be too sure about this.

imloggedin

..but i must add. like i said before, the battery and starter condition play a big roll.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Ok, i was fixating on the turbo leaking because he said that he had a film of oil in the intercooler, which is way upstream of anything that has oil in it besides the turbo... thus implying that, at the very least, his turbo was blowing oil. As for the front cover, i completely missed the S-shaped oil return line.. oops.

The OP also said that he didnt have the charcoal canister or any emissions stuff, and that one system is simple, helps the environment, doesnt affect drivability, and basically, doesnt harm anything. That was my reasoning there. As for the coolant to the BAC valve, its basically just a preventative measure. the things i recommended were just that, things that i'd personally do to the car, but they wont affect his current problem or the drivability of the car.

As for the rebuilds, my point was the same as imloggedin's, that the compression is dependent on a lot of things, and usually you only see compressions nearing or over 100 psi after its just been rebuilt in a shop where theres more of a controlled environment. The point was that he shouldnt worry too much about the numbers he's seeing, at least until he rules out the turbo as the cause of oil smoke.

JasonS

iTrader: (62)

So will I benefit from a complete S5 intake and if so...how?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

well, it wont help the smoking problem, and it would require you to do a bit of wiring to get it to work with the S4 computer... or use the S5 computer and do a bit of wiring to get that to work with the car. If you do use one and wire it properly, you should see a little benefit, but most of the power difference between the S4 and S5 turbos can be attributed to the increased boost, more efficient turbo manifold and increased compression.