i am having really bad "wheel hop" at the track, how do i get rid of this?

 

Are you running the stock suspension? What about sway bars?

 

Just at the track? I'm having this problem any time the tires 'try' to spin, I'm pretty sure it's because I still have the stock suspension. It's the first thing on my list to upgrade.

 

yes, stock suspension bushings everything except for power upgrades, i get it every once in a while on the street, but it is every time i launch at the track

 

scalliwag sells solid diff mounts for less than $100 which may be a bitch to install, but have been known to eliminate wheelhop. i would, of course, replace all the suspension i could as well, but the solid diff mount may be something you desire as well.

 

It might be the kind of tires your running, because no doubt they will grip better at the track because of the surface. Its your suspension, i noticed a huge difference in wheel hop when i switched to an adjustable tokico setup. Im still getting wheel hop, but not near as bad. Do the suspension, and if you can upgrade your sway bars and this should eliminate nearly all hop. Good luck man!

Oh yea, DEFINATELY upgrade to the urethane sway bar bushings

 

I remember hearing that someone installed a rear strut tower brace and it pretty much eliminated his wheel hop. might be worth a try...anyone else have one and any thoughts on this?

 

i use tokico's ewith eibach and i get no wheel hop at the strip

 

I just bought mine

He's making a new batch this weekend and mine will be sent out Monday, can't wait!

Price is $60 dollars plus $7.50 shipping in the US for forum members.

 

Blue TII had serious wheel hop in his car until he installed his rear strut tower brace. Then it just went away all at once. I guess I'll be installing one eventually as well, since even my NA tends toward hop on a drag launch...

 

I think I've finally wrecked my diff mounts.. I am starting to get more wheel hop too, I've noticed.

usually none on launch but lots on the 1-2 and a bit on the 2-3 shift.

 

I installed a rear tower brace a couple months ago and it reduced wheel hop to almost nothing. Just kind of squats and squalls now on the street unless you let off the gas to regain traction. Pretty cheap(ebay) and easy to install, and it looks nice in the back too(even though it's hidden by the cargo cover 99% of the time). Not sure yet how it will do on the track.

 

Try to feather the clutch a little more.. Wheel hop is the same as spinning, which kills your 60 ft time.

 

One of the biggest reasons for wheel hop is the differential twists the opposite direction as the tires under torque. The more flex that is allowed the more hop you will get. The reason 4 link race suspensions are made the way they are is to keep the housing from torquing upward.
But since an independant suspension does not have an axle housing the link method would not apply. A better strut definately helps against wheel hop but the inherant design of the stock diff mount cannot be ignored, at least not once they break anyways. :shock:

They were not designed for launching the way most of us like to drive so that makes them a weak link.
And everybody knows that a car is only as strong as the weakest link.
If you don't drive hard then none of this really matters anyway.

 

Yep! I love my 2.35 60'

If only I could've gotten it down to like 2.0 at least, I would've been in 14's, oh well I really need to practice launching I guess

 

My car never hops and it has stock bushings, diff mount, but tokico hp shocks and eibach springs. The rear tires sitting on a truck scale give a reading of ~1200 lbs, for whatever that is worth.

 

was the scale even (flat) or was your car ***-up on the scale? i wouldnt mind doing a 4-corner weight check when my car is rebuilt with a few missing stock parts. wish i had adjustable suspension to compliment it.

 

Flat, of couse! The car is down to about 2350 pounds in race trim. Roughly 1150 on the front and 1200 out back.

 

best bet GOOD tires and up grades in all areas of suspension. better street handling and track prformance!

 

Man, I get 1.8 60 ft times on street tires!

 

Shut up!! Teach me how to do that

I'm running Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's, 225/50ZR16 all the way around, and I can't pull better than 2.35 60' times... Of course, this is with dropping the clutch at 6k, and I've only successfully done that once, two other times it broke my car when doing that First time I snapped an alt belt, 2nd time my CAI ripped off the TB elbow.

I guess I just need to practice

 

haha, or tighten a few bolts ! 6k? damn. sounds high to try and catch traction. i dont drag much, though. oh, and my car has been down since feb 1st. i'm just a nomad now.

 

Yah, 6k, that's what got me my 15.3 I could've improved upon that too, but like I said, the last two times I tried to launch my car broke during it.

The alt belt broke because the spacer for the alt was in the wrong place, friction from dragging before + hot belt + high launched broke it, and when I heard the loud thump under my hood freaked me out and I stopped. Second time I thought my intake was on tight enough, I mean I couldn't pull it off if I tried! But somehow the launch did? I dunno...

Anyways, when I was dumping the clutch at 4.5k, or slipping the clutch at 4/5/6k it was yielding slower times. I discovered that either slipping the clutch blows, or I blow at slipping the clutch Since dropping is so easy I just adapted that method. I should probably practice more instead, though.

 

If you vehicle has stock suspention, this could be the main cause to your problem. If you get the chance, upgrade the rear shocks and springs to some high quality aftermarket units. Get the car back out on the track and try some different launch techniques.

Good luck.

Regards,
-Markus

 

You either need a engine torque brace or solid motor mounts. Hell you may even have a broke motor mount :shock: But it sounds like your motor is twisting hard.