Crionics

I am rather embarrassed about this question, but I am having some problems torquing down the nut on my spindel (front passenger side). I followed the procedure outlined in my Haynes manual and on Mazdatrix's website, but after a week, the nut works loose and can be removed by hand. Does this mean the races are bad too? I didn't change them. Is there supposed to be anything between the nut and the outer bearing, such as a lock washer or something? Also, is the cap over the nut suppoesed to rest against the cotter pin?

Thanks for any help.

HAILERS

The Set Cover fits over the nut. The Set Cover has slots on its outside that the cotter key fits into. That locks the nut in place.

HAILERS

I scanned a really nice picture out of the manual, but I have not been able to send a new jpg for weeks from this site. I doubt the *moderators* know or care. After all its a free site. WAs a really good picture though. Pretty descriptive. Oh well.

Crionics

So how do I get this cover to rest against the kotter pin? Is this cover worn, or maybe bad races or something?

Crionics

sry...double post.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Adjust the clearance properly with the nut, then put the "set cover" over the nut, then put the cotter pin through the set cover, spindle, then out the other side through the set cover. You may need to rotate the set cover slightly to align the cotter pin. Never knew it was called the set cover. Learn something new each day.

HAILERS

Turbonut.....I used *set cover* because I made a jpg out of the picture in the fsm, and they called it a set cover and had it listed with numbers etc. I figured by looking at the picture it would make sense. Unfortunatley I can't post jpg anymore on this site.

Your explanation makes sense. If the cover is put on, and the cotterkey falls outboard of the slots in the cover, then Cirionics has left out a washer or some other part.

rxtarga

I had to change the races on the hub- same problem. Used a dremel and got the bearings at NAPA for less than 40 bucks.
When you tighten it spin the wheel as though you were going forward, then tighten it a little, spin again, spin backwards (2 revolutions) then forward again. Now loosen the nut and then tighten a bit beyond hand tight( don't spin the wheel during the final tightening) - Mine has held well and the dealer wanted 400 $ plus for the "hub assembly".
The GTU has an aluminum hub that the machine shops have no experience working with and won't risk destroying it with a punch tool.

GlenL

I hate that cotter pin. Took me 30 minutes to finally break it off, then I had to go to a 24hr Home Depot to get some new ones. Afterward, I bought a cotter pin remover. Yay!

Crionics

Now you're making me nervous. I don't remember a washer, but I'll check Saturday.

Thanks.

HAILERS

Go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com look at the manual. Look at Front and Rear Axles. There is a depiction of the front bearings there.

First the wheel comes off. The next thing is what they call the Hub Cap, then the cotter pin, then the Set Cover that fits over the nut, then the nut, followed by a thick washer. The lack of a washer would explain why the cotter key is not fitting in the grooves of the Set Cover.

swrx7

there should be a large washer between the outter bearing and the jam nut.....at least mine has them. it will have a a notch which will align with the groove on the stud for the jam nut. make sure to repack with the proper grease. good luck.

88 SE

I always overpack my bearings, oozes out when i spin the hub before i put the dust cover back on lol