When I grab my tire, the upper half, and push in and pull out, i hear a slight click sound. My guess is that the wheel bearing is gone. Is there anything else it could be? I am going to put the car up and take the tie rods, etc out, and really try and pin down the sound.

If it is wheel bearings, any suggestions? I will be AutoX'ing regularly when I get this problem fixed.

Thanks!

 

Sounds like a wheel bearing problem. I assume this is the front wheel. Raise the car and snug up the axle nut according to the FSM instructions. Do not overtighten. If you still get the movement/noise, check the suspension components and tie rods for looseness.

 

Thanks! Will do.

Any tips on where to buy new maybe stronger bearings? Specifically for autox.....

Hardened?

 

im interested as well.

 

This happened to me. My front bearing got so bad that the brake caliper was grinding against the rotor when I would turn left.

I got new bearings (inner + outer) from mazdatrix. They usually have everything I need at ok prices.

The hardest part about replacing them is packing them w grease + finding torque spec. Other than that it's a bit more involved than changing a tire.

 

Ok please fix this NOW! it sounds like the wheel bearing and if it gives your wheel will fall off! Mazda designed the units to be non serviceable meaning you have to replace the entire spindle but mazdatrix.com does have information on how to change them. Make sure you do both of them and replace the ball joints and tie rod ends at the same time and then have the front end aligned!

 

bull ******* **** son.

I just replaced the inner + outer bearings (not races) + everything is fine. This is several years later too. If your races are screwed, just drill out the races until you can get them out. I don't agree with drilling the part the race goes into.

 

Yup your a guru for sure and I clearly have no idea wtf I am talking about my bad!
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

 

Before you dive into a wheel bearing change, you should double-check all your front end components for proper torque spec. You may just have something loose.

I replaced my front wheel bearings last fall. Grinding small notches into the hub to punch the races out wasn't tough at all. If you have a roto-zip with the extension it's no more than five minutes worth of work per hub.

 

I had a machinist change the front bearings out of the hubs for me, he said he ran a bead of weld around the inside of the old race and it dropped right out.

 

So because someone who's trying to sell you more parts has a how-to on it means that you have to do it right? Suuuuuuure.

 

wow you are clearly misinformed and a half asser at that

 

I am? Really now. Like I stated originally, this is my experience talking. Not some bullshit I read on a forum who's buddy did this.

Just trying to help people not spend all their money on stuff they don't need. FC owners aren't known for having tons of cash.

 

your right again I wondered in off the street and must be regurgitating forum knowledge again bc no way would I have extensive experience like you. Because half assing your work and not replacing races is the premo way to go children! You must have all the answers and experience so I shall leave all this really technical stuff for you to answer from now on.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

It may be the bearings. Trying to AutoX last year they said they were bad. So, it's been about a year, and grabbing the wheel and pushing / pulling gives the same small click. Hasn't gotten any worse. Doesn't mean I am not going to check into it, but it does make me curious as to whether or not it's the problem. Also, when I do things, I do them very thoroughly. So, I probably will put a few more things on when I do them. I will be doing all four. Two front, two rear.

Let's all get along guys! No worries about who knows more then who. We all do our own thing, and it works out for all of us. I'll be doing a lot of testing. I am putting a electric fan in at the same time, to get ready for a future upgrade, and will be purchasing a mega squirt system soon too. Also, in preparation for my big upgrade.

I have also been considering finding a 4.88 rear. Have debated about getting the 4.3 instead, but, 4.1 to 4.3 doesn't seem to make a huge difference. The 4.88 times I have seen are more of what I am shooting for. Lower top speed, and really insane acceleration.

Again, thanks for everyones input!

 

Just a quick note - The bearings and races are available through NAPA - but you need to search for part numbers. Do some searching on the forum for more details on how to change them out.

You may want to try a repack and retighten the hub. In my experience (having gone through multiple front wheel bearings) this is just a temporary fix at best.

Of course while you have the hub apart, inspect and replace any marginal suspension bits that you come across.

It is not likely that you need to change the spindle. I would recommend that you change the races with the bearings - sometimes you need to, sometimes you don't. But plan on doing it. You can drill them out or have a friend with a welder run a bead along the inside of the race (which will shrink it so that it pops out).

Good luck,

-bill

 

heat expands metal freezing shrinks metal.

 

Remember that you also have a total of 4 bearings for the front. Inner + outer.

 

Re-tightening the assembly can buy you some time. The castle nut cover thingie allows some movement of the nut since it fits over the nut rather loosely.

I'm guessing the reason the weld bead trick works is that it gets hot when you weld and then when it cools the welded metal shrinks and pulls the race with it. We're not talking a very large amount of shrinkage that's required to get the press fit parts to come loose.

 

As the race is hardened steel I am guessing the fairest in the surrounding metal absorbs heat faster and expands at a greater rate then that of the race allowing the race to loose its pressed fit.

 

Could be. Aluminum also expands at a greater rate than steel does.