Spectrum24x

Hey guys I've searched but all the threads assume you already know what your doing. I'm in the process of doing it right now. So from my understanding I need to ground the battery in the back. Then run the positive up towards the front put a breaker box within 18'' of the battery then positive through the firewall, split it into two wires one goes to starter and the other to the main fuse box.. I feel like that's pretty simple. My question is do you guys typically rip out all the old battery wires?

Do I have this right?

RXntrik7

I run the new new wire to the old positive and bolt em down in a connector box placed where battery used to be.


It makes it easy to hook up whatever accesories u need that way. Also I grounded mine in several locations right behind the driver seat. Don't forget to ground your engine to chasis.

Spectrum24x

So you didn't run the new wire to the starter? Just connected it into the old positive?

iceblue

You could run the new ground directly to the ground where the starter is and bolt it down yes. Or you could run it up to the old factory one and bolt them together.

I would suggest running the - to the starter and then chase the - from the original connection to where it first T's off and cut the wire off from there or change the end and bolt it somewhere.

The + I run out and down the frame rail into the bay and solder the original + wire to the new one unless you want to redo the entire + charging cable to the fuse box and the alternator.

Make sure you use a Closed cell battery!!!!!!!

Iwantamuffin

So y are you relocating the battery anyways? the car it self has a good wight ratio, the only thing you would be doing is adding more weight with all the cables that you are running! kinda pointless if u ask me

Spectrum24x

My FMIC would not allow my radiator overflow reservoir to fit, so im relocating the battery to free up some space in the engine bay to remount the reservoir.

Ok, heres what i've decided to do. The Battery itself is mounted in the rear hatch, with the negative grounded right there at the rear. I simply ran the positive wire up the passenger side under the carpet, through the firewall, then up across the top of the firewall, then down and im going to put a distribution box where the old battery was. The positive from the battery will go into the distribution box and i will connect the old positive and the old fuse box wire into the other portion of the 2-1 distribution block. Then i will just cut off the old negative wire and tape it off, this should be all i need to do correct?

Is there any reason to add any other grounds? I wouldnt see why

RXntrik7

you got concept right. One thing though is you gotta have the engine grounded to the chasis. I believe old negative is bolted under a starter bolt so just solder a connector to it and bolt it to the chassis somewhere on the other end. I made my own ground kit using some 4ga amp cable and connectors like these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-10-4-Gaug...3%3A1|294%3A50

iceblue

I used to have pics explaining how to do this properly sorry we will have to do without them. Do not use a distro block for this setup very bad choice but good idea. Make sure you crimp and solder connectors on the ends back fill the connector with solder also. I would suggest using a small torch and a thicker solder rod to fill the connectors with. You want your connection to incorporate the entire stranding of your wire instead of just the outside skin. If you were working with AC current thats fine but not with DC current.

Tip: The battery box makes a great relocation place.
Note: Make sure you properly secure the battery!!

Danger: You do not want that battery flying around in a wreck it could kill you! My uncles car just went into the wall running 9.20 at 148.8mph and the nitrous bottles came out of the bracket and thats BAD! But the battery stayed inside its box!

Spectrum24x

So why is the distribution block a good idea, but a bad choice?

I was going to use a 175amp fuse in the line within a foot of the battery, then use the distribution block in the engine bay to make a cleaner setup to split the positive cable connection between the starter and fuse box. My only thoughts are using this distribution block, or just soldering all three wires together and tucking them away.

iceblue

Use a 250amp breaker not a fuse you will end up stranded on the side of the road one day.

Not a good idea because as I stated DC current dose not skin the wire and you need to supply a solid conductivity between all of the strands. Make sure you are using a fine strand wire too not a course one like a 120V-AC wire.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Ted has a good battery relocation writeup on his website:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BATTRELO/battrelo.html

Personally I think the two breakers are overkill, but it really doesn't matter. Better two breakers then none at all.

iceblue

Is Ted around these days anymore?

nitronatefc

iTrader: (2)

I think Ted frequents another forum. May I ask why you are putting the battery in the hatch and not the storage bin?

Not to thread jack, but if the battery were to be relocated to the hatch of a coupe (or the trunk of a vert) wouldn't it be better just to ground it back there rather than running another length of cable to the starter?

iceblue

No because all the main grounds for the EFI/ECU system run from the motor you want your main ground there everything grounding to the bod is very little and mostly located up on the firewall.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

the weight of the battery Coming off the Front driver's side corner is a Good answer to your question about relocation.Plus the Fact that Guys can't Steal your Battery IF they can't SEE it!
Two pounds of cable is not going to slow your car down.