Torch101

How much do Alignments generally cost? My wheel is angled to 1oclock

DemonicPupil

I just recently took mine to sears and it cost me 70 bucks for all 4 wheels.

Additional question... my driver side wheel has been eaten to the metal. Guy at the alignment place told me my rear wheels both came in almost as perfect as can be. I told him about transporting the shortblock in my car for a total of probably 300-400 miles. He said that probably pulled the back down and made the wheels go outwards and tear up the inside of my tires. Anyone think this is true?

RETed

Do you drive like a maniac?
If so, then it's the DTSS doing it's thing.
There is no way around it short of disabling the DTSS with eliminator bushings.


-Ted

DemonicPupil

incoming newb question.. as far as suspension goes, i know jack ****.. what is DTSS? Sometimes I drive like a maniac. Rarely ever burn rubber except when i gas it too hard making a turn from a stop. I do take turns as hard as i possibly can tho. Yellow sign says 25, i say 60ish.. no squeally squeally tho...

RETed

DTSS = Dynamic Tracking Stabilization System (or something close?)

It's a passive rear steer system on the FC.
Depending on cornering loads, the rear alignment will automatically change toe settings.
Normally, there's a slight toe-out.
Under heavy cornering loads, the toe will change to toe-in at about 0.5 G's on the rear suspension.
This change of toe causes premature wear on the inside edges of the rear tires.
If you're a cornering demon (which you sound like you fit the description), the wear on the inside edges can get dramatic.


-Ted

YearsOfDecay

Wheel eaten to the metal???? you mean the tire was worn to the belts right???

OK... Rx-7 suspesnions 101.....

As the *** end drops, the negative camber INCREASES mechanically due to the change in suspension geometry.. toe cahnges a bit too, especially if your control arm bushings are worn out

Now... lets say you have 18 year old springs on your car... they are weak and spongy from years of abuse (you take the place of your springs for a day, even a cruise down the streat will beat the living **** out ofyou!!!) SO.. you go and chuck an engine in the back of your car.. probably as far back as possible to make it easier to get in and out... worse yet, if you had the motor to the drivers side and YOU sitting on the drivers side...

that probably lowered the *** of your car about two inches didn't it???

Well, with the *** end squatting down that much, the tires are going to see large negative camber, which means that the inside edge of the tire is seeing the most pressure, and the outside edge may not even be contacting the asphalt.. PLUS you have a couple hundred Lbs of extra weight on the tires (depending on HOW far towards the rear the motor sat, you could even have changed the weight distribution of the car slightly, adding even more weight to the rear wheels)

Add to that the fact that your tires were most likely under inflated, and YEP... your darn skippy that could eat the tires down to the belts in 400 miles at highway speeds. (old tires that is.. I doubt it would shred brand new ones, but it would definately be noteable wear).

ALSO... I''ve noted that the rear suspension needs to be "Set" when you put an FC on an alignment rack and get the wheels sensors installed.. After I mounted my Eibachs and AGX's.. I took my car down and tossed it on my buddys alignment rack.. after i got the wheels sensors on and lowered the car back down and did the initial sweep... i was amazed that the rear camber was only slightly out to the negative side.. i was expecting a bit more because the wheels LOOKED like they were sitting in more when i first drove it on the rack..... I thought about this for a minute and then it hit me... I climbed up on the car and bounced up and down on the rear deck about a dozen times and did another sweep..(even though the rack has swivel plates where the wheels sit, the cars suspension hadn't settled after the car was lifted into the air... NOW the camber was showing up WAY red to the negative.. It took 9 full turns on the Racing Beat Adjuster bar to get it JUST into the green (i want as much neg as bossible without tearing **** up).

SO... if the dude didn't "set" your suspension after he got it on the rack.. your car might have been out and he didn't know it.

DemonicPupil

Bah humbug, think I should take it to him and have him double check it over? My shocks are aftermarket, not sure what kind, and the springs may be also. I put the engine in the back then pushed it as far up towards the passenger seat as I could get it. The car didn't even make a noticeable budge downwards. When I try to push the back of the car down myself, as hard as I can, I still can only get it down like half an inch. I assume this is why my car holds to the road like an alcoholic to his drink.

YearsOfDecay

Take a level and put it up against the bottom lip of your wheel... now see how far the top of the wheel is away from the level when you get the bubble centered.. If its more than about 1/2 inch.. you got way to much camber.. (car must be on a flat level surface!!)

Then, pop the hatch and get someone to sit in the back of the car and do it again... (push the car back and forth fist to set the suspension... (Alignment racks have roller plates.. the wheels will not set properly when the car is on concrete or asphalt unless you move it around after you add the weight to the back!!!!)