What's your benchmark?
What's your benchmark?
What's your performance target? What level do you realistically want to get your FC up to? E46 M3? FD? S2000? STi? EVO? Supra MKIV? In terms of handling, power, braking and so on...What's your bench mark?
I have an N/A S4. I have two bench marks I'm looking to achieving. Handling wise I want my car to be on par with a Honda S2000 while maintaining, a decent amount of streetability. My plan of attack is Sway bars, strut bars, lower arm bars, progressive springs, tokico hp's, expanding foam, LSD, better tires, harder bushings, and few bits here and there.
As for power, I'm aiming for a TII swap and want to boost it up to about 250hp at the crank. I would like my acceleration to be somewhere between a FD and a S2000. I hope to achieve this via supporting mods to the turbo (exhoust, tunning, and upping the PSI a bit).
Brakes, just better compound pads, stainless lines, better rotors, and rebuilt calipers.
I have an N/A S4. I have two bench marks I'm looking to achieving. Handling wise I want my car to be on par with a Honda S2000 while maintaining, a decent amount of streetability. My plan of attack is Sway bars, strut bars, lower arm bars, progressive springs, tokico hp's, expanding foam, LSD, better tires, harder bushings, and few bits here and there.
As for power, I'm aiming for a TII swap and want to boost it up to about 250hp at the crank. I would like my acceleration to be somewhere between a FD and a S2000. I hope to achieve this via supporting mods to the turbo (exhoust, tunning, and upping the PSI a bit).
Brakes, just better compound pads, stainless lines, better rotors, and rebuilt calipers.
you have any idea how much that will cost? i mean good plan and stuff but will cost upwards of 8k im sure, if you are buying decent parts at that. and why comparisons to s2k? its not that great of a car.
because I think it's a good benchmark for a 20 year old car and will meet the track day/ autoX days I would like to use the car for. The S2000 is the bench mark I have chosen. What's yours? Yes I know it will cost money I just graduated from the university have a decent job and am working on my MBA, so i do have the money to play with the car, and I'm not doing it in one shot building the car should take me about a year to a year and a half. Good tires and wheels alone will run around $800 I'm not ignorant when it comes to how much $$$ one has to cough up. So my build is more than realistic.
Edit:
Oh also I'm starting off with an N/A S4 base model so I think the Bench mark is fair. .9x G on the skid pad, 0-60 in the 5's and 1/4 in low 14s (which should be high 13's with torque of the turbo). Seems like a fun car to me. oh and your estimate doesn't include the "restoration work" (new paint job, interior bits, new seats, carpet etc.) I'm willing to pay. I can see why you would post as you did though, there are lots of people around here with big dreams and no cash.
Racing beat package: $450
Strut bars: $220
Tires: $400
Wheels: $400
Swap: $2500+
LSD: $400
Bushings: $100+
Brakes: $500+
Other suspension bits: $400+
Expanding foam: $100
Shocks: $250.
and so on. (FMIC, electronics etc)
Edit:
Oh also I'm starting off with an N/A S4 base model so I think the Bench mark is fair. .9x G on the skid pad, 0-60 in the 5's and 1/4 in low 14s (which should be high 13's with torque of the turbo). Seems like a fun car to me. oh and your estimate doesn't include the "restoration work" (new paint job, interior bits, new seats, carpet etc.) I'm willing to pay. I can see why you would post as you did though, there are lots of people around here with big dreams and no cash.
Racing beat package: $450
Strut bars: $220
Tires: $400
Wheels: $400
Swap: $2500+
LSD: $400
Bushings: $100+
Brakes: $500+
Other suspension bits: $400+
Expanding foam: $100
Shocks: $250.
and so on. (FMIC, electronics etc)
Last edited by Rotary_Powerd; Mar 13, 2008 at 10:16 PM.
400hp DD and a weekend drift and drag car. Almost done as a matter of fact. I'm going with kei office suspension. the engine is a JDM S4 TII to start but then I got my hands on a ported and lapped plates, I had the housing ported. Upgraded the whole drivetrain to an Efini TII rearend well that is what the guy I bought it from told me anyways. I never really looked juse made sure it was an LSD. I highly doubt it though that it is an EFINI, lol probably just a regular S4 TII rearend. Went standalone (thanx to $100T2 for the Microtech LT8S Deal). Upgraded the turbo and all. So my benchmark is 400hp and I'm gonna enter drift competitions when I'm done, maybe even autocross. I also started with a S4 Base that I got for free. Good luck
im one of em lol! i got my wake up call a long time ago, when i want to buy one part i have to buy 3 more at the same time so that it will fit, just like you wanna fix one thing on your car you gotta take off a whole bunch of other ****. :S i think with tuning you will do much better in 1/4 mile than you think, and you will probably surpass the s2k with all of your mods.
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do!
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do!
im one of em lol! i got my wake up call a long time ago, when i want to buy one part i have to buy 3 more at the same time so that it will fit, just like you wanna fix one thing on your car you gotta take off a whole bunch of other ****. :S i think with tuning you will do much better in 1/4 mile than you think, and you will probably surpass the s2k with all of your mods.
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do!
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do!
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you guys are hilliarious, your fc will never handle on par with an s2000, it'll always handle on par with an FC.
one car can't handle like another, it can only handle better or worse but never like another car,
Infini is FC , Enfini is FD
your ideal of it handling like an s2k is neither realistic or conservative
one car can't handle like another, it can only handle better or worse but never like another car,
Infini is FC , Enfini is FD
your ideal of it handling like an s2k is neither realistic or conservative
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
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From: Cincinnati, OH
I want to hit 300hp sometime in a year or two. I have an S4 GTU that I'll hopefully be turbo swapping around mid to late summer. It's my DD with occasional drift practices about once a month.
Look up of the definition of benchmark and then get back to us.
One is obviously not looking to be a replica of benchmark, but instead use said benchmark as a reference point for development. Another vehicle is merely a standard to which to hope to somewhat emulate or surpass. If we all listented to you there would be no point in improving our cars. "Damn my FC is still an FC, what's the point?" No my friend, it is you who is hilarious
BTW I never said handle LIKE a S2K I said on PAR with an SK2. Your mixing to different terms, the difference is subtle but there. I know there are inherent differences in the suspension system, steering ratio, geometry and so on. But grip, feedback and predictability can be easily improved with enough money.
In any event you didn't answer the question? What's your benchmark?
Last edited by Rotary_Powerd; Mar 13, 2008 at 11:26 PM.


Bah, you beat me to it! Oh well, it is nice to see that somebody else on this forum knows what a benchmark is. Maybe one of these days somebody else on this forum will learn what "mint condition" really means? Nah, lol.
just as long as it beats my friend eg hatches (with various motors, gsr, ls, blah, blah) and some ls DA integra's in the mountains and on the strip im fine. but ultimatley i want it to beat my dad's 89 blown saleen 5.0, which will be interesting to see. o yea it is a s4 t2
I want my FC to have a performance level that feels good to me. I don't care about numbers or what other cars can do. Therefore, my benchmark is my happiness, which is totally based on my subjective opinion. After all these years I have continually verified that it IS really all about ME! 

)
At the time I was strapped for cash
But on the bright side my S4 was only $1100 and had 84k miles on it
I might be in a MBA program, but I'm still a guy and at times cars and women are allowed to overwrite my patience and once in a while my common sense. I got impatient uncle sam gave me some money back, I saw an FC for sale, and couldn't resist.I WISH my car was mint, definately improving over time, wasn't bad to begin with but it is a 20 year old car that needs/needed some loving. Thanks again bro.
LOl I am a grasshopper that why I am on this forum, to learn. I meant Infini. LOL My bad I was in a hurry when I wrote that, didn't even re read it before I posted it.
i think that you can make your car handle better than an s2k if you really wanted too. if you hit every component of the suspension, i'm sure with the right parts you would school an s2k on the track/skidpad.
my personal goals are ultimately to hit over 500 whp, not this year though, maybe not even next year. for the time i think i can reliably make 300 whp on low boost.
for suspension i really don't have many plans. i love the way my car handles on the factory gear. i might get a set of springs for now but that's it, i like my softer ride quality.
my personal goals are ultimately to hit over 500 whp, not this year though, maybe not even next year. for the time i think i can reliably make 300 whp on low boost.
for suspension i really don't have many plans. i love the way my car handles on the factory gear. i might get a set of springs for now but that's it, i like my softer ride quality.
-Racing beat package: $450 (actually it's $460, plus shipping and handling, plus install, plus maybe new upper mounts)
-Strut bars: $220 (Corksport bars are cheaper than that, and good, but I didn't feel any difference in the rear, I'd skip it, and then you can make your own lower arm bar, just search my name and you'll find my how-to, it's easy)
-Tires: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy tires)
-Wheels: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy wheels, maybe some nice 'vert wheels or maybe some Mustang rims, but nothing aftermarket)
-Swap: $2500+ (+ indeed)
-LSD: $400 (maybe for a worn out old one that barely limits slip, add in the cost of a rebuild, new bushings, and install and it's easily well over $1k, easily. In that case I'd get an FD torsen and swap it into a TII housing, no rebuild needed)
-Bushings: $100+ (plus install, which isn't trivial, there's lots of labor involved)
-Brakes: $500+ (only if you skip the fancy rotors and get some plain parts store ones, and non-performance pads)
Other suspension bits: $400+ (you can spend that much on alignment bits alone, easily)
-Expanding foam: $100 (don't count in it being that cheap, and also consider the install price)
-Shocks: $250. (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy shocks)
You should add DTSS eliminator bushings to that list, and a complete set of new drivetrain mounts/bushings. I really like the Mazda comp ones, they're stiffer than stock, but still damp out the vibes. Also, be sure to get some alignment parts, like a rear camber rod and camber plates if they'll fit with RB springs. This will allow you to get the alignment dialed in properly which makes a huge difference in speed, balance and tire life. The best suspension and tires with a bad alignment will be slow, hard to drive and hard on tires.
Your basic package seems sound, but the two absolute most important things to a car's handling are the tires and the shocks, and you've seriously cheaped out on those areas of your budget. Go for at least some KYB AGX's, and if you really are serious about handling, get Koni Yellows. Get GOOD tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the ground and if you cheap out there, NOTHING else that you do will make up for it. Bad shocks can make or break a setup, and adjustability there can help you tune the suspension to your liking.
-Strut bars: $220 (Corksport bars are cheaper than that, and good, but I didn't feel any difference in the rear, I'd skip it, and then you can make your own lower arm bar, just search my name and you'll find my how-to, it's easy)
-Tires: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy tires)
-Wheels: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy wheels, maybe some nice 'vert wheels or maybe some Mustang rims, but nothing aftermarket)
-Swap: $2500+ (+ indeed)
-LSD: $400 (maybe for a worn out old one that barely limits slip, add in the cost of a rebuild, new bushings, and install and it's easily well over $1k, easily. In that case I'd get an FD torsen and swap it into a TII housing, no rebuild needed)
-Bushings: $100+ (plus install, which isn't trivial, there's lots of labor involved)
-Brakes: $500+ (only if you skip the fancy rotors and get some plain parts store ones, and non-performance pads)
Other suspension bits: $400+ (you can spend that much on alignment bits alone, easily)
-Expanding foam: $100 (don't count in it being that cheap, and also consider the install price)
-Shocks: $250. (Damn, those are going to be some cheap *** crappy shocks)
You should add DTSS eliminator bushings to that list, and a complete set of new drivetrain mounts/bushings. I really like the Mazda comp ones, they're stiffer than stock, but still damp out the vibes. Also, be sure to get some alignment parts, like a rear camber rod and camber plates if they'll fit with RB springs. This will allow you to get the alignment dialed in properly which makes a huge difference in speed, balance and tire life. The best suspension and tires with a bad alignment will be slow, hard to drive and hard on tires.
Your basic package seems sound, but the two absolute most important things to a car's handling are the tires and the shocks, and you've seriously cheaped out on those areas of your budget. Go for at least some KYB AGX's, and if you really are serious about handling, get Koni Yellows. Get GOOD tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the ground and if you cheap out there, NOTHING else that you do will make up for it. Bad shocks can make or break a setup, and adjustability there can help you tune the suspension to your liking.
i sort of agree with black91n/a. but not about everything.
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH
As for my performance goal
1988 GXL: I want it to be a 2009 skyline killer. I'm not talking about making a skyline look like its standing still, but i want to be able to say i beat it confidently.
i figure, with a $70k price tag, plus parts are going to be pretty damn expensive, ANNNNDDD the cost to have these parts installed(because really, there wont be any USDM skyline owners that can work on their own car) its going to be a while before before people can really start modding these beast.
Also, i'm just talking about a stock skyline. cuz i'm sure when these things are modified, there wont be much that will keep up with them.
I'll add in before any nay-sayers do. I got about a lil more than $7k-$8k invested in mine. making roughly 280-300hp at the wheels right now. and i prolly weigh in around 2800( +/- 50lbs) I'll find out for sure what i weigh in less than 2 weeks.
I'm N/A and if i decide to go with a power adder, i know i'll stomp on the skyline all day long.
Does anyone know if nissan is planning on releasing GTS type versions of the 09 skyline?
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH
As for my performance goal
1988 GXL: I want it to be a 2009 skyline killer. I'm not talking about making a skyline look like its standing still, but i want to be able to say i beat it confidently.
i figure, with a $70k price tag, plus parts are going to be pretty damn expensive, ANNNNDDD the cost to have these parts installed(because really, there wont be any USDM skyline owners that can work on their own car) its going to be a while before before people can really start modding these beast.
Also, i'm just talking about a stock skyline. cuz i'm sure when these things are modified, there wont be much that will keep up with them.
I'll add in before any nay-sayers do. I got about a lil more than $7k-$8k invested in mine. making roughly 280-300hp at the wheels right now. and i prolly weigh in around 2800( +/- 50lbs) I'll find out for sure what i weigh in less than 2 weeks.
I'm N/A and if i decide to go with a power adder, i know i'll stomp on the skyline all day long.
Does anyone know if nissan is planning on releasing GTS type versions of the 09 skyline?
Last edited by Brismo7; Mar 14, 2008 at 03:25 PM.
im lookin for 300-350 hp track only. i was originally going to get tien super drift suspension but after rb springs and kyb agx struts i won't turn back. i plan on doing a front clip s5 t2 swap into my 88se. larger turbo, fmic, haltec or power fc, boost controller. and i have a lsd sitting in my house waiting to be put in after i rebuild it. its really not that hard and you can get all the friction discs from mazda for around 150. so if anyone wants an lsd rebuilt let me know i'll do it for ya. for a fee of course
oh yeah for my differential im going to have a 4.3 gear ratio. my fc is goin to be a drift only fc. finally it was a dd forever now i have pos 90 accord and my fc is in storage waiting for its upgrades
i sort of agree with black91n/a. but not about everything.
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH
Basically to do what you're talking about you have to be very vigilent looking for stuff and get a bit lucky at the same time.
The OP also needs to consider the other costs, like shipping and handling on EVERYTHING and stuff like mounting and balancing and install costs if they're not doing it themselves.
Your performance goal of beating a new GTR is basically 100% unrealistic. They're insanely fast.
Got keep it to around $100 a tire, trust me I'll go through them quick for the purpose of the car
I agree
Yes I have the money, but I'm still somewhat cheap. I was a poor undergraduate not to long ago some habits die hard. I'll look in your FD LSD suggestion
I just foam certain parts of the car. I listened to Mike Kojima's handi foam suggestion.
You should add DTSS eliminator bushings to that list, and a complete set of new drivetrain mounts/bushings. I really like the Mazda comp ones, they're stiffer than stock, but still damp out the vibes. Also, be sure to get some alignment parts, like a rear camber rod and camber plates if they'll fit with RB springs. This will allow you to get the alignment dialed in properly which makes a huge difference in speed, balance and tire life. The best suspension and tires with a bad alignment will be slow, hard to drive and hard on tires.
Your basic package seems sound, but the two absolute most important things to a car's handling are the tires and the shocks, and you've seriously cheaped out on those areas of your budget. Go for at least some KYB AGX's, and if you really are serious about handling, get Koni Yellows. Get GOOD tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the ground and if you cheap out there, NOTHING else that you do will make up for it. Bad shocks can make or break a setup, and adjustability there can help you tune the suspension to your liking.


