What's your benchmark?
What's your performance target? What level do you realistically want to get your FC up to? E46 M3? FD? S2000? STi? EVO? Supra MKIV? In terms of handling, power, braking and so on...What's your bench mark?
I have an N/A S4. I have two bench marks I'm looking to achieving. Handling wise I want my car to be on par with a Honda S2000 while maintaining, a decent amount of streetability. My plan of attack is Sway bars, strut bars, lower arm bars, progressive springs, tokico hp's, expanding foam, LSD, better tires, harder bushings, and few bits here and there. As for power, I'm aiming for a TII swap and want to boost it up to about 250hp at the crank. I would like my acceleration to be somewhere between a FD and a S2000. I hope to achieve this via supporting mods to the turbo (exhoust, tunning, and upping the PSI a bit). Brakes, just better compound pads, stainless lines, better rotors, and rebuilt calipers. |
:rolleyes: you have any idea how much that will cost? i mean good plan and stuff but will cost upwards of 8k im sure, if you are buying decent parts at that.
and why comparisons to s2k? its not that great of a car. |
because I think it's a good benchmark for a 20 year old car and will meet the track day/ autoX days I would like to use the car for. The S2000 is the bench mark I have chosen. What's yours? Yes I know it will cost money I just graduated from the university have a decent job and am working on my MBA, so i do have the money to play with the car, and I'm not doing it in one shot building the car should take me about a year to a year and a half. Good tires and wheels alone will run around $800 I'm not ignorant when it comes to how much $$$ one has to cough up. So my build is more than realistic.
Edit: Oh also I'm starting off with an N/A S4 base model so I think the Bench mark is fair. .9x G on the skid pad, 0-60 in the 5's and 1/4 in low 14s (which should be high 13's with torque of the turbo). Seems like a fun car to me. oh and your estimate doesn't include the "restoration work" (new paint job, interior bits, new seats, carpet etc.) I'm willing to pay. I can see why you would post as you did though, there are lots of people around here with big dreams and no cash. Racing beat package: $450 Strut bars: $220 Tires: $400 Wheels: $400 Swap: $2500+ LSD: $400 Bushings: $100+ Brakes: $500+ Other suspension bits: $400+ Expanding foam: $100 Shocks: $250. and so on. (FMIC, electronics etc) |
400hp DD and a weekend drift and drag car. Almost done as a matter of fact. I'm going with kei office suspension. the engine is a JDM S4 TII to start but then I got my hands on a ported and lapped plates, I had the housing ported. Upgraded the whole drivetrain to an Efini TII rearend well that is what the guy I bought it from told me anyways. I never really looked juse made sure it was an LSD. I highly doubt it though that it is an EFINI, lol probably just a regular S4 TII rearend. Went standalone (thanx to $100T2 for the Microtech LT8S Deal). Upgraded the turbo and all. So my benchmark is 400hp and I'm gonna enter drift competitions when I'm done, maybe even autocross. I also started with a S4 Base that I got for free. Good luck
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im one of em lol! i got my wake up call a long time ago, when i want to buy one part i have to buy 3 more at the same time so that it will fit, just like you wanna fix one thing on your car you gotta take off a whole bunch of other shit. :S i think with tuning you will do much better in 1/4 mile than you think, and you will probably surpass the s2k with all of your mods.
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do! |
Originally Posted by carbonRX
(Post 7976175)
im one of em lol! i got my wake up call a long time ago, when i want to buy one part i have to buy 3 more at the same time so that it will fit, just like you wanna fix one thing on your car you gotta take off a whole bunch of other shit. :S i think with tuning you will do much better in 1/4 mile than you think, and you will probably surpass the s2k with all of your mods.
as far as my own benchmark goes.... i have to get it back to as good as stock first but i can't see myself ever stopping as long as i love my car as much as i do! |
I want my 88 tII to perform as well as a stock fd
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you guys are hilliarious, your fc will never handle on par with an s2000, it'll always handle on par with an FC.
one car can't handle like another, it can only handle better or worse but never like another car, Infini is FC , Enfini is FD your ideal of it handling like an s2k is neither realistic or conservative |
Efini is FD, small grasshopper.
Due to different suspension types, you'll have better luck making it handle like an M3 than a S2000. |
I want to hit 300hp sometime in a year or two. I have an S4 GTU that I'll hopefully be turbo swapping around mid to late summer. It's my DD with occasional drift practices about once a month.
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Originally Posted by VacavilleFC
(Post 7976298)
you guys are hilliarious, your fc will never handle on par with an s2000, it'll always handle on par with an FC.
BTW I never said handle LIKE a S2K I said on PAR with an SK2. Your mixing to different terms, the difference is subtle but there. I know there are inherent differences in the suspension system, steering ratio, geometry and so on. But grip, feedback and predictability can be easily improved with enough money. In any event you didn't answer the question? What's your benchmark? |
Originally Posted by Rotary_Powerd
(Post 7976055)
What's your performance target? What level do you realistically want to get your FC up to?
Originally Posted by Rotary_Powerd
(Post 7976055)
Handling wise I want my car to be on par with a Honda S2000 while maintaining, a decent amount of streetability.
Originally Posted by Rotary_Powerd
(Post 7976055)
As for power, I'm aiming for a TII swap and want to boost it up to about 250hp at the crank.
Originally Posted by Rotary_Powerd
(Post 7976055)
Brakes, just better compound pads, stainless lines, better rotors, and rebuilt calipers.
Originally Posted by Rotary_Powerd
(Post 7976396)
No my friend, it is you who is hilarious:rofl:
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just as long as it beats my friend eg hatches (with various motors, gsr, ls, blah, blah) and some ls DA integra's in the mountains and on the strip im fine. but ultimatley i want it to beat my dad's 89 blown saleen 5.0, which will be interesting to see. o yea it is a s4 t2
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500hp with pump gas
900hp with race gas Smoke anything on the road I come up against short of a full race car. -Ted |
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7976463)
I want my FC to have a performance level that feels good to me. I don't care about numbers or what other cars can do. Therefore, my benchmark is my happiness, which is totally based on my subjective opinion. After all these years I have continually verified that it IS really all about ME! :)
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7976463)
Er, Mazda already pretty much did that for you. A stock S4 GXL RX-7 is good for 0.88g on the skidpad, which is exactly the same as Car & Driver got out of the 2004 S2000. Done.
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7976463)
That should take care of the hp deficit. I'm not sure why you don't save a lot of time and money and simply buy a TII to start with, especially since you are supposed to be good at finance and management. ;)
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7976463)
I am not aware of any better rotors, as the expensive stuff is only for bling. Just get the cheapie plain vented Brembo replacement rotors from Tire Rack and focus on the other items on your list.
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7976463)
Bah, you beat me to it! Oh well, it is nice to see that somebody else on this forum knows what a benchmark is. Maybe one of these days somebody else on this forum will learn what "mint condition" really means? Nah, lol.
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Originally Posted by RETed
(Post 7976974)
500hp with pump gas
900hp with race gas Smoke anything on the road I come up against short of a full race car. -Ted If I build mine, I'd like it to make about 275-300 hp, maybe a tad more. Pretty much put it up to the usable limit for street tires on mountain roads ;) |
LOl I am a grasshopper that why I am on this forum, to learn. I meant Infini. LOL My bad I was in a hurry when I wrote that, didn't even re read it before I posted it.
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i think that you can make your car handle better than an s2k if you really wanted too. if you hit every component of the suspension, i'm sure with the right parts you would school an s2k on the track/skidpad.
my personal goals are ultimately to hit over 500 whp, not this year though, maybe not even next year. for the time i think i can reliably make 300 whp on low boost. for suspension i really don't have many plans. i love the way my car handles on the factory gear. i might get a set of springs for now but that's it, i like my softer ride quality. |
-Racing beat package: $450 (actually it's $460, plus shipping and handling, plus install, plus maybe new upper mounts)
-Strut bars: $220 (Corksport bars are cheaper than that, and good, but I didn't feel any difference in the rear, I'd skip it, and then you can make your own lower arm bar, just search my name and you'll find my how-to, it's easy) -Tires: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy tires) -Wheels: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy wheels, maybe some nice 'vert wheels or maybe some Mustang rims, but nothing aftermarket) -Swap: $2500+ (+ indeed) -LSD: $400 (maybe for a worn out old one that barely limits slip, add in the cost of a rebuild, new bushings, and install and it's easily well over $1k, easily. In that case I'd get an FD torsen and swap it into a TII housing, no rebuild needed) -Bushings: $100+ (plus install, which isn't trivial, there's lots of labor involved) -Brakes: $500+ (only if you skip the fancy rotors and get some plain parts store ones, and non-performance pads) Other suspension bits: $400+ (you can spend that much on alignment bits alone, easily) -Expanding foam: $100 (don't count in it being that cheap, and also consider the install price) -Shocks: $250. (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy shocks) You should add DTSS eliminator bushings to that list, and a complete set of new drivetrain mounts/bushings. I really like the Mazda comp ones, they're stiffer than stock, but still damp out the vibes. Also, be sure to get some alignment parts, like a rear camber rod and camber plates if they'll fit with RB springs. This will allow you to get the alignment dialed in properly which makes a huge difference in speed, balance and tire life. The best suspension and tires with a bad alignment will be slow, hard to drive and hard on tires. Your basic package seems sound, but the two absolute most important things to a car's handling are the tires and the shocks, and you've seriously cheaped out on those areas of your budget. Go for at least some KYB AGX's, and if you really are serious about handling, get Koni Yellows. Get GOOD tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the ground and if you cheap out there, NOTHING else that you do will make up for it. Bad shocks can make or break a setup, and adjustability there can help you tune the suspension to your liking. |
i sort of agree with black91n/a. but not about everything.
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH As for my performance goal 1988 GXL: I want it to be a 2009 skyline killer. I'm not talking about making a skyline look like its standing still, but i want to be able to say i beat it confidently. i figure, with a $70k price tag, plus parts are going to be pretty damn expensive, ANNNNDDD the cost to have these parts installed(because really, there wont be any USDM skyline owners that can work on their own car) its going to be a while before before people can really start modding these beast. Also, i'm just talking about a stock skyline. cuz i'm sure when these things are modified, there wont be much that will keep up with them. I'll add in before any nay-sayers do. I got about a lil more than $7k-$8k invested in mine. making roughly 280-300hp at the wheels right now. and i prolly weigh in around 2800( +/- 50lbs) I'll find out for sure what i weigh in less than 2 weeks. I'm N/A and if i decide to go with a power adder, i know i'll stomp on the skyline all day long. Does anyone know if nissan is planning on releasing GTS type versions of the 09 skyline? |
250 hp dd. :)
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im lookin for 300-350 hp track only. i was originally going to get tien super drift suspension but after rb springs and kyb agx struts i won't turn back. i plan on doing a front clip s5 t2 swap into my 88se. larger turbo, fmic, haltec or power fc, boost controller. and i have a lsd sitting in my house waiting to be put in after i rebuild it. its really not that hard and you can get all the friction discs from mazda for around 150. so if anyone wants an lsd rebuilt let me know i'll do it for ya. for a fee of course
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oh yeah for my differential im going to have a 4.3 gear ratio. my fc is goin to be a drift only fc. finally it was a dd forever now i have pos 90 accord and my fc is in storage waiting for its upgrades
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Originally Posted by Brismo7
(Post 7978385)
i sort of agree with black91n/a. but not about everything.
You can get nice wheels and tires for 400 each, you just got to keep your eyes wide open and have cash ready for when it goes up for sale. i got a real nice set of wheels 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front for about that much. and i just bought a pair of potenza RE050A for $70( for the pair). they are used, but they have about 60-70% life left in them. not bad considering they go for $285 brand new...EACH Basically to do what you're talking about you have to be very vigilent looking for stuff and get a bit lucky at the same time. The OP also needs to consider the other costs, like shipping and handling on EVERYTHING and stuff like mounting and balancing and install costs if they're not doing it themselves. Your performance goal of beating a new GTR is basically 100% unrealistic. They're insanely fast. |
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Racing beat package: $450 (actually it's $460, plus shipping and handling, plus install, plus maybe new upper mounts)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Strut bars: $220 (Corksport bars are cheaper than that, and good, but I didn't feel any difference in the rear, I'd skip it, and then you can make your own lower arm bar, just search my name and you'll find my how-to, it's easy)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Tires: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy tires)
Got keep it to around $100 a tire, trust me I'll go through them quick for the purpose of the car:lol:
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Wheels: $400 (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy wheels, maybe some nice 'vert wheels or maybe some Mustang rims, but nothing aftermarket)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Swap: $2500+ (+ indeed)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-LSD: $400 (maybe for a worn out old one that barely limits slip, add in the cost of a rebuild, new bushings, and install and it's easily well over $1k, easily. In that case I'd get an FD torsen and swap it into a TII housing, no rebuild needed)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Bushings: $100+ (plus install, which isn't trivial, there's lots of labor involved)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Brakes: $500+ (only if you skip the fancy rotors and get some plain parts store ones, and non-performance pads)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
Other suspension bits: $400+ (you can spend that much on alignment bits alone, easily)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Expanding foam: $100 (don't count in it being that cheap, and also consider the install price)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
-Shocks: $250. (Damn, those are going to be some cheap ass crappy shocks)
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
You should add DTSS eliminator bushings to that list, and a complete set of new drivetrain mounts/bushings. I really like the Mazda comp ones, they're stiffer than stock, but still damp out the vibes. Also, be sure to get some alignment parts, like a rear camber rod and camber plates if they'll fit with RB springs. This will allow you to get the alignment dialed in properly which makes a huge difference in speed, balance and tire life. The best suspension and tires with a bad alignment will be slow, hard to drive and hard on tires.
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7977987)
Your basic package seems sound, but the two absolute most important things to a car's handling are the tires and the shocks, and you've seriously cheaped out on those areas of your budget. Go for at least some KYB AGX's, and if you really are serious about handling, get Koni Yellows. Get GOOD tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the ground and if you cheap out there, NOTHING else that you do will make up for it. Bad shocks can make or break a setup, and adjustability there can help you tune the suspension to your liking.
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