Whats WOT?
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Pistons are gay
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Just to clarify everything, while testing the tps the car is just supposed to be in "on" position right? Not actually running? So when I do wot, do I just floor it or have to start the motor?
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Pistons are gay
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Finally an answer. Thanks alot.
I guess I'll give a bit of information while I go out there and test it .... 87 t2, when warming up the idle rises from 1.5k rpms to 2k rpms and remain at 2k rpms. Should be at 750, funny thing is sometimes the car will idle at 1k rpms but that happens when i shut the car off and restart it after a drive. Once I restart it and go for a drive and stop at a red light it returns to 2k rpm idle. The idle does not hesitate or pulse.
I guess I'll give a bit of information while I go out there and test it .... 87 t2, when warming up the idle rises from 1.5k rpms to 2k rpms and remain at 2k rpms. Should be at 750, funny thing is sometimes the car will idle at 1k rpms but that happens when i shut the car off and restart it after a drive. Once I restart it and go for a drive and stop at a red light it returns to 2k rpm idle. The idle does not hesitate or pulse.
Last edited by Boosted11; 01-20-08 at 03:50 PM.
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Pistons are gay
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So I'm lost here now guys. The multimeter read 1.534 ohms, its a good multimeter just bought it. That was the reading for a resting idle. So I adjusted it down to 1 ohm and started the car up and it rested at 1.5k rpms but bogged up and down up and down. So I turned it back up to 1.534 ohms because I ran out of daylight. Any ideas so I can get this sorted out tomorrow?
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Accelerated Warm Up is that when starting cold and in neutral, the car revs up to 3000 rpm for 5 seconds.
Cold Idle assist keeps the idle up when starting cold, idling at 1200 and dropping down to 700 at it warms, when started cold.
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adjust TPS to 1kohm at idle then
adjust Idle per FSM 04a page 04-77
it involves setting the initial set coupler, having a TACH to hook up under hood (did mine w/out tach) setting the variable resitor located behind airbox and adjusting air/fuel mix screw top of TB under rubber boot, the variable resitor should have some epoxy in the hole, takes a bit of prying to get it all out
if you don't have the FSM check the sticky at the top of the section labeled FAQ there is a link the the FSM in there, or send me your email address and ill send you the one you need
adjust Idle per FSM 04a page 04-77
it involves setting the initial set coupler, having a TACH to hook up under hood (did mine w/out tach) setting the variable resitor located behind airbox and adjusting air/fuel mix screw top of TB under rubber boot, the variable resitor should have some epoxy in the hole, takes a bit of prying to get it all out
if you don't have the FSM check the sticky at the top of the section labeled FAQ there is a link the the FSM in there, or send me your email address and ill send you the one you need
#12
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You are mixing up cold idle assist and accelerated warm up.
Accelerated Warm Up is that when starting cold and in neutral, the car revs up to 3000 rpm for 5 seconds.
Cold Idle assist keeps the idle up when starting cold, idling at 1200 and dropping down to 700 at it warms, when started cold.
Accelerated Warm Up is that when starting cold and in neutral, the car revs up to 3000 rpm for 5 seconds.
Cold Idle assist keeps the idle up when starting cold, idling at 1200 and dropping down to 700 at it warms, when started cold.
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yes... your motor will explode into a black hole vortex. but i never let mine rev w/ the accelerated warm up. Start it in gear, or if in neutral; just tap the gas when it starts to shoot up and it will go down immediately. In my opinion, I don't like a cold motor to idle at 3k rpms as soon as it fires up... let alone, 4k rpm like yours.
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