Lately when i take sharp right corners it buzzez at me, and then goes away. Anyone know why that is?
Thanks

 

Captian obvious to the rescue...

Have you checked the coolant level recently?

 

yep. about 2 months ago, i had a leaky lower intake manifold gasket, so i took it in to the mechanic. When i had that leak, the buzzer would go off on idle. On this occasion the buzzer is going off only when i turn.
Thanks

 

just a theory, maybe when you make the turn the coolant moves to one side and sensor thinks it's low until you straighten it back out. mine doesn't do that so i'd say your coolant level is a little low.

 

"yep. about 2 months ago..." you checked your Coolant? What about right now?

Excuse my Ignorance but the title of your thread both asks and answers your own question. Am I missing something?

 

well, i've heard this happens to some, but I can't find the thread i'd heard it from. Yup to yes, that i had checked my coolant as the light went off. And 2 months ago i had the leak.
Thanks

 

You can take the radiator cap off sometimes and see coolant. That does not mean that the system is full though. The radiator header can trap air. That header is where the sensor is mounted. If the sensor is not covered in water......buzzzzzzzzzzz. You have to bleed the air out of the radiator. Mazda put a Bleed Screw on the right side of the radiator for that. The procedure is in the fsm or owners manual, one.

 

k

 

The coolant light is not stupid. Not checking the radiator level when the light comes on is what's stupid...

 

Mine sure as hell is stupid.

My coolant WAS full, and I bled all the air out of the radiator... took out the sensor on the top of the radiator, it was clean (the metal probe at the end). Some people recommended a new mazda OEM radiator cap.... did that. I flushed the cooant (and it WAS nasty as HELL, but STILL went off). I then took a dremel and sanded down both contacts on the sensor (the male to female connector). Reduced the amount of times it went off... but still did. My problem turned out to be a crippled broken rusty wire from the sensor to wherever it goes... I just replaced a large gap of the wire and its fine now.




Things I would check/do about the buzzer....

1) CHECK THE LEVEL
2) Flush the coolant
3) Bleed any air out
4) Check/clean the sensor (rubber looking nut on top of the radiator).
-While you have it out... I would lightly sand the metal probe... from what I hear, it gets its signal by grounding it throught the cooalnt. If there is air bubbles in there... and the sensor doesnt ground to the coolant (radiator) then it goes off. If you can't find where it connects to, take off the OEM intake ****.. the snorkel. The connector is below the snorkel part of the intake. While you got that off... take some sand paper and get all that crud (there will be) off the connector. If it STILL goes off, replace the wire. After that.... I have no ******* clue, just what has worked for me

 

true, but i checked it and the level was fine.

 

For what it's worth, and I'm sure I'm *wasting my breath here*........You can take the filler cap off and see water right to the top of the neck..and the system Might NOt Be Full. Let's see, what did I write? Water to the top of the filler neck..and the system might not be full. Yep, that's what I wrote.

Tell you what you can do. Remove the sensor from the top of the radiator. Fill the radiator till its full. Use the sensor hole if you have to. Now turn the key to ON with the sensor not immersed ...just hanging in mid air. Wait til you hear the buzzzer. While its buzzing, just put the tip of the sensor in the water at the top of the hole in the radiator. The buzz goes off after about twenty seconds or less. Now apply that bit of information to what your car is doing. As in buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

You know something. They wrote a book about this car and it's systems. It's called a factory service manual. A person with a eigth grade education is supposed to be able to understand it. But they can only understand it if they read it.

 

The sensor is not stupid; you're looking stupid to think it's stupid.
Most of the time the sensor is bulletproof (poor_red_neck is an exception).  Why don't you ground out the sensor tip to see if it's the sensor is bad - this will confirm if the sensor is bad or not.  If it passes this test, you're STILL LEAKING COOLANT SOMEWHERE.

You just don't get it.  A TINY leak in the cooling system degrades the cooling efficiency.  The cooling system need pressure to work effectively.  That tiny leak is causing the loss of pressure, which causes your cooling system to fail.  Once your cooling sytem fails, you've got a dead motor, period.

The car is over 10 years old.  It's going to have problems like this.  If you can't handle it's little problems, get rid of the car and get a Toyota.


-Ted

 

thanks guys, i'll test the sensor, maybe it's malfuntioning.

-Carlos