What's an IAS plug? Need help with rat's nest removal..2
What's an IAS plug? Need help with rat's nest removal..2
No. 51 in writeup, what's an IAS plug
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html
I just completed rat nest removal, car starts, but I need to hold the throttle down so the car doesn't shut off any suggestions??
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html
I just completed rat nest removal, car starts, but I need to hold the throttle down so the car doesn't shut off any suggestions??
Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
There are a few things you do NOT want to remove which the writeup tell you to remove.
1. Steps 15, 26, 33. Purge Control Valve. Allows moisture and bypass gases to esacpe, not the same as venting to atmosphere, vacuum is applied to the oil sump when over 2000rpm or so.
2. Step 32 BAC (Bypass Air Control Valve). This stabilizes the idle to compensate for mechanical loads on the engine. Also bumps the idle up to about 2000rpm at every start up for a few seconds.
3. Steps, 22, 23, 38, 40 Thermowax. This is what keeps the engine from stalling when cold. This is why you need to hold the gas till the engine is warm. Removing this makes no sense at all.
How cold is it near you? White smoke could be just clouds of moisture. Poping and backfiring may be a bad connection at the TPS. you may need to readjust the TPS after fiddling with everything too. Even though you don't think you would have too.
Make sure your AUX ports are working correctly. Push the actuator rod down into the actuator to make sure they move freely. Then check to make sure the small metal tube sticking out on the left side of the rear actuator is connected to the pipe coming from the CAT if you have one.
I hope you don't have a CAT since you removed the airpump and ACV right?
1. Steps 15, 26, 33. Purge Control Valve. Allows moisture and bypass gases to esacpe, not the same as venting to atmosphere, vacuum is applied to the oil sump when over 2000rpm or so.
2. Step 32 BAC (Bypass Air Control Valve). This stabilizes the idle to compensate for mechanical loads on the engine. Also bumps the idle up to about 2000rpm at every start up for a few seconds.
3. Steps, 22, 23, 38, 40 Thermowax. This is what keeps the engine from stalling when cold. This is why you need to hold the gas till the engine is warm. Removing this makes no sense at all.
smells like its burning oil and clouds of white smoke is coming out...seems like there's hesitation all the way till 6k....then releases...popping and backfiring too
Make sure your AUX ports are working correctly. Push the actuator rod down into the actuator to make sure they move freely. Then check to make sure the small metal tube sticking out on the left side of the rear actuator is connected to the pipe coming from the CAT if you have one.
I hope you don't have a CAT since you removed the airpump and ACV right?
Last edited by RotaMan99; Nov 24, 2007 at 06:29 AM.
There are a few things you do NOT want to remove which the writeup tell you to remove.
1. Steps 15, 26, 33. Purge Control Valve. Allows moisture and bypass gases to esacpe, not the same as venting to atmosphere, vacuum is applied to the oil sump when over 2000rpm or so.
2. Step 32 BAC (Bypass Air Control Valve). This stabilizes the idle to compensate for mechanical loads on the engine.
mechanical loads?
3. Steps, 22, 23, 38, 40 Thermowax. This is what keeps the engine from stalling when cold. This is why you need to hold the gas till the engine is warm. Removing this makes no sense at all.
How cold is it near you? White smoke could be just clouds of moisture. Poping and backfiring may be a bad connection at the TPS. you may need to readjust the TPS after fiddling with everything too. Even though you don't think you would have too.
I live in Hawaii so cold really isn't too much of a factor, I'll try adjust the TPS and seee what that does
Make sure your AUX ports are working correctly. Push the actuator rod down into the actuator to make sure they move freely. Then check to make sure the small metal tube sticking out on the left side of the rear actuator is connected to the pipe coming from the CAT if you have one.
I checked them out the move freely
I hope you don't have a CAT since you removed the airpump and ACV right?
1. Steps 15, 26, 33. Purge Control Valve. Allows moisture and bypass gases to esacpe, not the same as venting to atmosphere, vacuum is applied to the oil sump when over 2000rpm or so.
2. Step 32 BAC (Bypass Air Control Valve). This stabilizes the idle to compensate for mechanical loads on the engine.
mechanical loads?
3. Steps, 22, 23, 38, 40 Thermowax. This is what keeps the engine from stalling when cold. This is why you need to hold the gas till the engine is warm. Removing this makes no sense at all.
How cold is it near you? White smoke could be just clouds of moisture. Poping and backfiring may be a bad connection at the TPS. you may need to readjust the TPS after fiddling with everything too. Even though you don't think you would have too.
I live in Hawaii so cold really isn't too much of a factor, I'll try adjust the TPS and seee what that does
Make sure your AUX ports are working correctly. Push the actuator rod down into the actuator to make sure they move freely. Then check to make sure the small metal tube sticking out on the left side of the rear actuator is connected to the pipe coming from the CAT if you have one.
I checked them out the move freely
I hope you don't have a CAT since you removed the airpump and ACV right?
arghh, I should have just left it alone, the car was working fine prior to removing all this crap
Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
arghh, I should have just left it alone, the car was working fine prior to removing all this crap
So im guessing the AUX ports are not hooked up to anything?
If you are sticking with no cat, and the ports are not hooked up to anything, then I would get a header with the aux port tube so you can activate them still.
There are electronic ways of opening the aux ports as well. Just do a lil search for electronic aux ports or electric aux ports or something of the sort.
mechanical loads?
aux ports work fine they move when throttling
when removing the solenoid plugs, I have an extra plug that I can't seem to find out where it goes to, it looks like an injector plug, but it's together with the loom of the solenoids
do you have any suggestions or solutions as the why the power seems so flat until 5.5k, seems like it's taking long for the throttle to kick in...almost like a turbo lag to boost........lol, but it's only an NA
also post 50 of the emmissions removal it says to replace vacuum hose, but I can't for the life of me figure out where the heckit came from
when removing the solenoid plugs, I have an extra plug that I can't seem to find out where it goes to, it looks like an injector plug, but it's together with the loom of the solenoids
do you have any suggestions or solutions as the why the power seems so flat until 5.5k, seems like it's taking long for the throttle to kick in...almost like a turbo lag to boost........lol, but it's only an NA
also post 50 of the emmissions removal it says to replace vacuum hose, but I can't for the life of me figure out where the heckit came from
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Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
also post 50 of the emmissions removal it says to replace vacuum hose, but I can't for the life of me figure out where the heckit came from
The vacuum hose in question is coming from the vacuum spider (5 port manifold) that has 4 vacuum lines going to the oil injectors. That large vacuum line connects to the front of the DC. Picture of the nipple to connect it to is pictured below.
Image from Rotary Resurection website
when removing the solenoid plugs, I have an extra plug that I can't seem to find out where it goes to, it looks like an injector plug, but it's together with the loom of the solenoids
Image from Rotary Resurection website
do you have any suggestions or solutions as the why the power seems so flat until 5.5k, seems like it's taking long for the throttle to kick in...almost like a turbo lag to boost........lol, but it's only an NA
the mysterious plug:
can't figure out where this goes
the loom of solenoids if joined with:
TB mod:
so if I removed the OMP just cap the top vacuum hole?
***** & giggles:
I also checked the link it's down......
can't figure out where this goes
the loom of solenoids if joined with:
TB mod:
so if I removed the OMP just cap the top vacuum hole?
***** & giggles:
I also checked the link it's down......
Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
If the OMP is working. Just do the maintenance on it and leave it be. Premixing is a PITA and is not needed. You will have ZERO benefits from premixing.
That plug is for the BACV which you should put back on. No performance gain removing the BACV.
That plug is for the BACV which you should put back on. No performance gain removing the BACV.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
I saw your other thread about the white smoke.
Do you still have your OMP on? Did you happen to cap the oil injectors air supply?
If so, this could cause excessive suction on the OMP system which could cause an abnormal amount of oil to be sucked into the engine.
Just a guess. Even though I don't think this could cause a smoking situation, just something to throw in there.
Do you still have your OMP on? Did you happen to cap the oil injectors air supply?
If so, this could cause excessive suction on the OMP system which could cause an abnormal amount of oil to be sucked into the engine.
Just a guess. Even though I don't think this could cause a smoking situation, just something to throw in there.
BAC and OMP have been removed.......pre-mixing is OK with me, as for the BAC it was tossed so I don't think that will be coming back...
I'm doing a compression test as a final analysis...pretty much 90% sure that there's a seal leak somewhere
I'm doing a compression test as a final analysis...pretty much 90% sure that there's a seal leak somewhere
nah, I did that...I got the car to idle nicely, but the power loss in the suxxorz
I'm doing a compression test after work for the final analysis of the motor......
if the front 2 plugs are good, but the rear 2 are soaked and caked with oil..what does this mean?
I'm doing a compression test after work for the final analysis of the motor......
if the front 2 plugs are good, but the rear 2 are soaked and caked with oil..what does this mean?
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